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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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12-02-2023, 05:24 PM | #15 | |
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You should have seen when I was pulling my engine lmao that shit was a real cluster fuck. I left the tranny in the car and the studs were resisting so much and not letting me pull the engine off lol I ended up sticking my jack handle you know like the big 4-5 ft pip between the engine and tranny and absolutely going ham on that shit until I was able to fully separate the tranny and engine, and I was able to successfully pull the engine out of my car, and the tranny was still in it. As you seen in the previous pictures |
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12-02-2023, 05:33 PM | #16 |
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I don't remember, sorry. I don't think that part hung us up too long. Getting it the rest of the way took a few days of thinking and coming back to it so that's what I remember. But it looks like you just got past that first part at least! Good luck!
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The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | twistednoble (12-02-2023) |
12-02-2023, 05:58 PM | #17 |
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I've been screwing around with it for a while now and I' probably gonna call it a day. I've got about a 1/4-1/8" gap around the whole thing but the right side is refusing to come as easily as the left. The gap is the smallest in the area around the LHS dowel so that is the current pain point. I'm wondering if this trans jack is putting pressure on it unevenly. I've messed around with the leveling nuts but it doesnt seem like it's helping. I might roll the floor jack over and support with that in the morning and use the trans jack to support the header.
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12-02-2023, 07:41 PM | #18 | |
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First sticking point was that I didn't have a long enough wrench to motivate the diff nuts, then it was the stuck bellhousing, we'll see what else decides to rear it's head. Hopefully it's smooth sailing soon. I'm getting tired of riding my VFR in 30F degree weather. |
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12-03-2023, 05:35 AM | #19 |
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I had a curious issue with difficult transmission removal recently, but it was merely a hiccup in the process and not a big ordeal for me. Luckily my friends (who were both prior Toyota master mechanics) were on hand and dealt with it fairly quickly with big pry bars.
The issue: one of the transmission-to-engine alignment knock pins got seized for whatever reason (perhaps a little corrosion), and it caused the assemblies to stick. I didn't think much of it at the time (because I wasn't the one fighting with the engine that day), until I looked at the bell housing a few days later and noticed one knock pins stuck to the transmission. That's not supposed to happen; they are supposed to stay on the engine. Last edited by EndlessAzure; 12-03-2023 at 06:00 AM. |
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12-03-2023, 02:37 PM | #20 |
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Enough feedback here to seriously consider stuck guide pins. I wouldn't have guessed.
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12-03-2023, 04:14 PM | #21 | |
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to twistednoble For This Useful Post: | EndlessAzure (12-12-2023), Spuds (12-04-2023) |
12-03-2023, 05:28 PM | #22 |
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How does this look as far as bearing surface damage? Surface is a bit rough but no harsh ridges present so I think I can call it aftermarket grease retention features .
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The Following User Says Thank You to twistednoble For This Useful Post: | bcj (12-03-2023) |
12-03-2023, 10:37 PM | #23 |
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2 (all?) of the dowels were very corroded and hard to get unstuck when I took the transmission out of my 2013. I mentioned it to the SA/Tech next time I was at the dealer and they just nodded and said that was fairly common, they often just drive a wedges between the engine and bell housing to get them separated.
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The Following User Says Thank You to 86league For This Useful Post: | twistednoble (12-04-2023) |
12-04-2023, 01:57 AM | #24 | |
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Longitudinal scuffing scratching should be fine if you are replacing the TOB. When I did mine there were tiny almost imperceptible rings of wear. I had bought a sleeve kit for the snout and installed that along with it's matching TOB. Only afterwards when I drove it for the first time did I realize how not smooth my clutch was before. It's super smooth now.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Spuds For This Useful Post: | bcj (12-04-2023) |
12-04-2023, 03:22 AM | #25 | |
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New exedy clutch and flywheel is in, just gotta track down the stuff I'm missing. I might also get some new dowels, but that depends on if I trash the old ones ripping them out of the trans. TOB was definitely the noise. Rotating the bearing sounds like stirring a red solo cup of limestone gravel. Not quite ruined yet though, the race is still held steady and the unit isn't falling apart. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to twistednoble For This Useful Post: | Spuds (12-04-2023) |
12-04-2023, 03:27 AM | #26 |
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Looking pretty good for a 90k mile clutch and flywheel.
Might chuck it on the classifieds in case anyone strapped for cash needs something to get by. |
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12-04-2023, 12:45 PM | #27 |
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When I did my TOB replacement I saw this guy's video. Excellent description and very good tips, I think he also has a re-installation video.
https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=f8f64...pVZmRtUQ&ntb=1
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12-06-2023, 12:38 AM | #28 |
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Same struggle putting it back together
Going back together. I rode up to the dealer and picked up a spring clip and a new MLS gasket for the front pipe yesterday then spent the rest of the day thawing out. I did go out and get the new fork and TOB installed in the bellhousing. I drove out the corroded pins from the trans, hit them with a wire wheel and then smacked them back into the engine with a coating of antisieze. Looking back this may have been a mistake as I drove them out the front of the bellhousing and didn't think to try and clean the corrosion residue out of the holes on the trans.
Fast forward to today and things actually went pretty well at first. I heaved the sucker back up onto the jack and then popped it back up on the swaybar and back on the lower studs. A little wiggling and she shot right back through the clutch. I know I made it that far since I popped the trans into gear and could no longer spin the tailshaft. Right about here is where I ran into difficulties again. It really did not want to ride on both dowels at once. I suspect I either drove them in slightly offkilter or the remaining corrosion in the holes made it a challenge. I did the dance raising and lowering both jacks to make sure things were lined up but with no luck. Next step was putting in two of the lower bolts (by hand only) and flopping the trans around to try and work it down. This worked pretty well, I would work it back and forth and it would allow me to turn the bolts (by hand still) to gain a little bit at a time. Eventually it got to the point where I couldn't gain any more ground and I got out the wrench to start working things back and forth a little bit at a time. I also put in the top two bolts (and a ton of washers on the RHS to make a faux starter flange) to assist in keeping the gap even on all sides. I worked one turn at a time on each bolt and didn't force anything if it got tight. I say that the RHS dowel pin was the problem since the LHS was much easier to draw down (to the point that I backed them off a couple times to keep the remaining gap even) and as I worked it down evenly I would get little puffs of red dust from the backside of the RHS pin hole from time to time. Now that I've explained my sin... What potential damage could I have caused by doing it this way and what are the symptoms? My primary concern is if the tip of the input shaft was in the pilot bearing or not by the time that the face of the trans is resting on the dowels. That's the only thing I think I really risked damaging doing this method. I called it a night after wrasslin'/bench-pressing the trans for about five hours and countless up-downs to tighten the top and lower bolts evenly my arms were dead. I've got a tiny gap left between bellhousing and block and then I'll torque the bolts to spec and put the rest of the car back together pending any disasters or prophecies of doom from y'all. I also need to clean and paint the front lower subframe braces before I put the skidplate back on. The paint's flaked off the welds and they're pretty red from the salty winter roads. They're probably gonna end up white since I don't have any black paint handy. It'll also give me a chance to lube the poly bushings on the front bar. That should hopefully address the pop I hear from the front left when I turn almost to lock or turn on an off-camber road. Last edited by twistednoble; 12-06-2023 at 12:40 AM. Reason: mixed up my right and lefts |
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