DIY - Gauge Cluster LED swap

[sirisvirus]

Originally Posted by Blackrsx

They look like the correct ones.

Now where can I find the bulbs for the hvac in blue?


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[RacerX]

You guys do know that the voltage drop for red LEDs is usually around 1.7V and White LEDs are around 3.3V! That could be why the BRZ and FRS LED clusters have different numbers of LEDs.

Depending on how their wired, doing this might cause damage. I guess nobody has had any issues, but I would definitely have probed the voltage rail and included resistors for proper current limiting. You don't want to overload any LEDs or voltage regulators.

BTW, my speedo is off by +1mph when compared to the digital. Never messed with my cluster so thats from the factory.

[Acree]

Originally Posted by RacerX

You guys do know that the voltage drop for red LEDs is usually around 1.7V and White LEDs are around 3.3V! That could be why the BRZ and FRS LED clusters have different numbers of LEDs.

Depending on how their wired, doing this might cause damage. I guess nobody has had any issues, but I would definitely have probed the voltage rail and included resistors for proper current limiting. You don't want to overload any LEDs or voltage regulators.

BTW, my speedo is off by +1mph when compared to the digital. Never messed with my cluster so thats from the factory.

I can speak with some authority on this subject. Swapping blue LEDs for red is not a problem.

[RacerX]

Originally Posted by Acree

I can speak with some authority on this subject. Swapping blue LEDs for red is not a problem.

That is good to know. Must be a constant current source then.

[sshole]

Originally Posted by RacerX

You guys do know that the voltage drop for red LEDs is usually around 1.7V and White LEDs are around 3.3V! That could be why the BRZ and FRS LED clusters have different numbers of LEDs.

Depending on how their wired, doing this might cause damage. I guess nobody has had any issues, but I would definitely have probed the voltage rail and included resistors for proper current limiting. You don't want to overload any LEDs or voltage regulators.

BTW, my speedo is off by +1mph when compared to the digital. Never messed with my cluster so thats from the factory.

I didn't pay much attention during my circuits course for my mechanical engineering degree.

[RacerX]

Originally Posted by sshole

I didn't pay much attention during my circuits course for my mechanical engineering degree.

LOL. My EE professors like to make fun of MEs.

[Acree]

I would recommend staying far away from eBay when sourcing electronic components.

Try these: Link

[Acree]

Originally Posted by RacerX

That is good to know. Must be a constant current source then.

And nope, it's just a simple resistor LED series string. But the LEDs draw enough current to put out plenty of light. There's no reason to change the resistor in this particular application when going from red to blue. If you were going from blue to red, I would recommend changing resistors.

[Mooseknuckle44]

Great DIY!! I like the look of the darker red for the end result.

Off topic question-sort of.

Never soldered anything before. Any recommendations for a good place to learn besides trial and error?

[sshole]

Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle44

Great DIY!! I like the look of the darker red for the end result.

Off topic question-sort of.

Never soldered anything before. Any recommendations for a good place to learn besides trial and error?

Find something that has surface mounted components and start soldering away. Learn how to desolder components - this is especially useful when working in the gauge cluster.

[sshole]

Originally Posted by Acree

I would recommend staying far away from eBay when sourcing electronic components.

Try these: Link

My ebay LEDs, while not the best quality, have been working 100% since however many years ago that I ordered them. I think it was 3 or 4 years ago.

But yes. Agreed. Don't buy ebay electronic components. They're terrible and you'll have at least 10% dead on arrival.

[Mooseknuckle44]

I'm assuming one soldering tool is just as good as the next? Or is there a Walmart version and a Snap On version?


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[sshole]

Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle44

I'm assuming one soldering tool is just as good as the next?

Sort of, not really.

Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle44

Or is there a Walmart version and a Snap On version?

Yes.

I've been getting by with crappy throw-away $10 RadioShack soldering irons for the past 10+ years. I've seen no need to upgrade to the $50+ units from the "Snap-On" brands.

[Acree]

Originally Posted by Mooseknuckle44

I'm assuming one soldering tool is just as good as the next? Or is there a Walmart version and a Snap On version?


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At a minimum, I would recommend a Weller unit such as [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU"]this.[/ame]

But food for thought, a soldering iron really is a tool that will last you 15-20 years if taken care of correctly. My personal recommendation would be an entry level constant temperature station, like [ame="http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WTCPT-Temperature-Controlled-Soldering/dp/B00004W463"]this.[/ame]