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Old 09-15-2016, 03:38 PM   #15
Ultramaroon
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Originally Posted by lantsalot View Post
It's a good question, I have a K&N reusable drop-in that I cleaned...probably 10k miles ago? Probably due for another cleaning soon though....
Most of the problem seems to be resolved, but it can't hurt to have a look at the filter too!
Hey, that thing doesn't get oiled, does it?
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Old 09-16-2016, 11:06 AM   #16
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Clogged with Starkville, Mississippi mold no doubt .......





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Mold? Nah. All we got here in Starkville is the crushed hopes and dreams of freshman university students.

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Hey, that thing doesn't get oiled, does it?
The K&Ns (and most reusable filters) need to be oiled. It's the oil that's actually doing the filtering - the fiber material is only there to *hold* the oil and keep big stuff from making it through. It should be inspected every oil change, and if dirty, cleaned and reoiled.
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Old 09-16-2016, 12:06 PM   #17
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Mold? Nah. All we got here in Starkville is the crushed hopes and dreams of freshman university students.
Awww... That's sad. Mold can be cleaned.


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The K&Ns (and most reusable filters) need to be oiled. It's the oil that's actually doing the filtering - the fiber material is only there to *hold* the oil and keep big stuff from making it through. It should be inspected every oil change, and if dirty, cleaned and reoiled.
That's what I was thinking. Over-oiling leads to a fouled MAF. OP, if this is the case, check the downstream half of your airbox and MAF for contamination. The tiniest bit of gunk will throw off the sensor.
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Old 09-20-2016, 05:59 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ultramaroon View Post
That's what I was thinking. Over-oiling leads to a fouled MAF. OP, if this is the case, check the downstream half of your airbox and MAF for contamination. The tiniest bit of gunk will throw off the sensor.
Good advice, I'll have a look at it (though it is driving quite well at the moment, it can't hurt to see if it could be driving even BETTER).
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:45 PM   #19
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Good advice, I'll have a look at it (though it is driving quite well at the moment, it can't hurt to see if it could be driving even BETTER).
Good to look. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 07-03-2022, 02:25 PM   #20
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Appreciate the thread.. just what I needed to know.
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Old 07-05-2022, 08:33 PM   #21
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Fun story:

I was doing the sunroof cables on a Tundra, so it spent a while with the battery unhooked. When I was done, hooked the battery back up, drove it out and job done.

Only, the carbon in the throttle was stopping the ECM from relearning the correct idle. It had learned from new and slightly drifted as the carbon built up over time, but there was too much of it to learn from zero. The truck didn't want to idle, bounced, stalled and bucked. One throttle cleaning and a reset of the adaptive memory and and it was as good as new on the first drive cycle.

FYI, having dealt with it last week on a 19 corolla, the correct idle matching procedure is (assuming the throttle body is clean): Reset the adaptive memory (disconnect the battery for DIYers), start the car, let it idle with no electrical load or AC until the ECT is above 80 degrees Celcius, then drive the car normally, putting it in neutral when coming to a stop and letting it idle 20 seconds.

Should be good after a few stops.
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