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01-23-2019, 06:40 PM | #1 |
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Front Camber Help Please
Hey guys, total noob with suspension here. I just added Tein Street Basis Z coils (because it's a daily) and lowered about an inch (I think?) with about half an inch left if I wanted to go lower (I don't). Also worth mentioning is I increased my wheel size to 18s. I also installed Whiteline Camber Bolts to the top holes of the struts on both sides. From what I can remember without taking off my wheels, the tab is facing towards the outside of the car for max negative camber, and the triangle on the bolt facing the same way. I'm trying to gain more negative camber without having to go for camber plates. Unfortunately whatever research I could do got me completely conflicting information and now I'm not sure how to go about getting more negative camber.
I've heard I could run the 14mm SPC camber bolt on the bottom, which would mean two eccentric bolts per strut. I've read on one thread that's one way to get negative camber, while other threads advise against it to not run two eccentric bolts or risk slippage. Another route I've heard is to remove the smaller 14mm OEM crash bolt from the bottom hole, replace the bottom with a 14mm camber bolt, and use that 14mm OEM bolt on the top (16mm hole) for more negative camber. Another post says that's also a huge no-no. That makes sense to me since that means you're running a smaller bolt through a larger hole. So which is it? How can I SAFELY get more negative camber? I realize you can only go so far with camber bolts, so I'm looking to max it out, or close to it, to get my front wheels to look flush before taking it in for an alignment. Also, if I did anything incorrectly based on my description, please let this noob know. To be honest, I don't even see the camber going negative from the outside. Here's how it's looking now: |
01-23-2019, 06:41 PM | #2 |
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Oops! Also meant to post this pic for another view:
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01-23-2019, 06:58 PM | #3 |
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IMO, it does not look like you have installed them correctly. You should have some camber...
I have tried a bunch of different things with my car. Here is a pic that shows how much camber you can get with two sets of bolts installed correctly. Here is one set of camber bolts. (and a 25mm spacer that's not in the last photo) I am using 81305 14mm EZcam in lower, and the lower OEM bolt in the upper. EDIT: MORE INFO & Link The 16mm Whiteline is for the top hole on our cars. SPC 81280 is also 16mm and for the top hole. The bottom bolt is 14mm and is SPC 81305 or 81260. There is a lot of info compiled in this thread https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609
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01-23-2019, 08:50 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
How long/mileage have you had both camber bolts installed? Have you had any issues with them going back to positive or any slippage? I was reading a thread that highly recommended against using camber bolts on both holes, but that thread was back in 2012. |
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01-23-2019, 09:46 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
The traingle should point away from the tab. Jack you car up, take wheel off, loosen both bolts. (Top and bottom) Then turn the triangle with a wrench to point in the other direction as the tab. Now, push the top of the wheel in while lifting the bottom up a bit. When I did this, I was able to tighten the bolts enough to let go, then tighten to spec. 96lbs IIRC I am using 81305 14mm EZcam in lower, and the lower OEM bolt in the upper. I'm also on coils now too.
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01-23-2019, 09:46 PM | #6 |
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Just checked the manual since I was originally following a youtube video for the install, and I have the camber bolt set for positive camber. lol. Whoops! I'll have to fix that tomorrow and see how it sits.
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01-23-2019, 10:39 PM | #7 |
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@Beachin86 I have both camber bolts in both slots and been running it for a while now. It been over 5k for sure and almost a year. No slippage from what I can see once torque down properly. You can also get the powerflex front lower control arm bushings to increase camber as well.
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01-24-2019, 08:13 AM | #8 |
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I couldn't get as much camber out of my Whiteline upper bolts as I wanted, and like you, did not want to use camber plates, so I slotted the hole in the strut slightly. I've done it on a few other cars I've owned in order to get camber where I wanted it...it doesn't take much - just do a little geometry calculation and I ended up removing less than 0.10" with a round file. 3 years later, no issues with slippage, and the Whiteline eccentric bolt still makes adjustment a piece of cake. I get my car aligned every spring. And nothing is more satisfying than a free performance mod that actually produces measurable results.
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01-24-2019, 11:21 AM | #9 |
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Run the smaller SPC bolts in the lower holes with the stock lower bolts in the upper holes. Two sets of lobed bolts doesn't give you more camber than just using the stock lower bolts in the upper holes and it'll be stronger.
You should be able to get close to -3* without plates or slotted struts, my KW V3's hit -3.8* with that bolt combination, but they're slotted from the factory.
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01-24-2019, 11:23 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Do you mean caster? Don't see how a LCA bushing is going to give you more camber up front.
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01-24-2019, 11:36 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...?category=1456 http://www.powerflex.co.uk/i/product...69-801G-FI.pdf |
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01-24-2019, 01:17 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
Wonder how that affects the rest of the geometry with how it adds the camber. You could actually use them to help the roll center by raising the pivot point up a bit too.
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01-24-2019, 01:31 PM | #13 |
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I wish we had a little more data. I'm sure it does affect a bit since it is actually moving the control arm in, out, up, and down when adjusting. That is true about the raising the pivot but I don't think it's going to help much. We will see. I am planning to get it since my roll center kit is back ordered.
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01-24-2019, 03:22 PM | #14 |
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In theory it's adding a bit of caster as it adds camber too
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