follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides

DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Guides For all DIYs.


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-26-2015, 11:50 PM   #85
LostSalad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: Toyota 86 - Charcoal Grey
Location: South Africa
Posts: 193
Thanks: 110
Thanked 95 Times in 61 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Hey @F1point4, thanks a lot for the awesome writeup. I'm going to attempt this today and I hope you see this

Is it necessary to replace the retaining clip for the lines? My braided lines didn't come with a new clip and I just want to make sure whether or not this is a re-usable part.
LostSalad is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to LostSalad For This Useful Post:
F1point4 (06-30-2015)
Old 06-30-2015, 04:37 PM   #86
F1point4
Photo Specialist
 
F1point4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 DGM 6MT
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,152
Thanks: 587
Thanked 1,802 Times in 420 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostSalad View Post
Hey @F1point4, thanks a lot for the awesome writeup. I'm going to attempt this today and I hope you see this

Is it necessary to replace the retaining clip for the lines? My braided lines didn't come with a new clip and I just want to make sure whether or not this is a re-usable part.
Thank you. Yes please replace the clip. The line could move and get knicked by something and you may lose all your brake fluids.
F1point4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 05:14 PM   #87
LostSalad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: Toyota 86 - Charcoal Grey
Location: South Africa
Posts: 193
Thanks: 110
Thanked 95 Times in 61 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by F1point4 View Post
Thank you. Yes please replace the clip. The line could move and get knicked by something and you may lose all your brake fluids.
I just want to make 100% sure we're on the same page here. By replacing it - I did not mean to just fit it again - but to get a new one entirely. Can I put back the one that I took out, or does it have to be a fresh one?

Also I see that you have screenshots from the service manual. I found the topic linking it but both mirrors (mediafire, 4shared) are no longer available. Do you know of any alternative mirrors or is there any chance that you could share it somehow?

EDIT: is it necessary to put thread-locker on the caliper mounting bolts? I am not 100% sure about this - do you know if the new OEM bolts come pre-loaded with thread-locker?

EDIT EDIT: while I'm busy here, I might as well ask lol. The mounting bolts are tight - but like... ****ing tight. I broke my socket wrench trying to loosen it with copious amounts of penetrating fluid and some hammering. So following some advice I managed to loosen the front ones by turning the wheels to clear some space and using a longer bar. BUT - there is hardly any space to work in the back wheel wells. How are you supposed to use a breaker bar to get them loose?? My plan at the moment is to use the brakes hard enough to get everything hot and then try to loosen it... Would you say it makes sense to take it to a shop with an impact gun - have them loosen it to break the rust - then re-tighten to be worked on later? Effort I know, but I'm getting a bit out of ideas.

Thanks

Last edited by LostSalad; 06-30-2015 at 05:24 PM.
LostSalad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 05:24 PM   #88
F1point4
Photo Specialist
 
F1point4's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Drives: 2013 Toyota 86 DGM 6MT
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,152
Thanks: 587
Thanked 1,802 Times in 420 Posts
Mentioned: 94 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LostSalad View Post
I just want to make 100% sure we're on the same page here. By replacing it - I did not mean to just fit it again - but to get a new one entirely. Can I put back the one that I took out, or does it have to be a fresh one?

Also I see that you have screenshots from the service manual. I found the topic linking it but both mirrors (mediafire, 4shared) are no longer available. Do you know of any alternative mirrors or is there any chance that you could share it somehow?

EDIT: is it necessary to put thread-locker on the caliper mounting bolts? I am not 100% sure about this - do you know if the new OEM bolts come pre-loaded with thread-locker?

Thanks

I think you can use the old one. If it fits properly that's the route I would go.

I am not aware of any alternative mirrors. Sorry I would not be able to share it.

As for thread locker, I think it helps to have it in there so bolts don't vibrate loose under braking. I don't know if new OEM bolts come preloaded.

Hope this helps.
F1point4 is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to F1point4 For This Useful Post:
LostSalad (07-01-2015)
Old 07-09-2015, 07:37 AM   #89
LostSalad
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Drives: Toyota 86 - Charcoal Grey
Location: South Africa
Posts: 193
Thanks: 110
Thanked 95 Times in 61 Posts
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by F1point4 View Post
The Turkey baster extraction is spot on, I just lost enough fluid changing my lines I didn't need to extract.
Hey there F1point4 - I recently followed your guide on doing pads + rotors and everything went great - much appreciated

Before I go and do the lines this weekend I just wanted to clarify some things - I only have 1l of fluid handy and I don't want to make any mistakes while watching a leak.
  • Turkey basters are impossible to find in my country (South Africa), and I don't particularly feel like draining fluid with a tiny spray pump. I am hoping that I lose enough fluid changing lines, same as you. What is the purpose of draining fluid early? Does it just save time compared to "draining" it through the bleed valves?
  • Will putting in the new lines stop the flow from the hardline, even if the other end is not connected to the caliper? Or must the new line sit in a catch bottle of its own until you tighten down the banjo bolt?
  • Does the plastic hose in the catch bottle need to be submerged in brake fluid when bleeding (to allow air to bubble up and out), or can you start with a totally empty catch bottle? I'm assuming it shouldn't be a problem as long as you close the bleeder valve properly?
  • Do you have to bleed each line properly before doing the flush? Or can you install all the lines without bleeding, and then just flush the whole system in order?

Thanks
LostSalad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-30-2015, 02:52 AM   #90
j_motion
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Drives: 14 BRZ Red premium
Location: Vancouver BC
Posts: 44
Thanks: 1
Thanked 14 Times in 13 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Does the OEM retainer clip work on the Mtec SS line ?
I just look in the SS linke package, and i don't see any clips included

Thank you for the write up, it awesome .
j_motion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 07:11 PM   #91
Anthony
Weight Nazi
 
Anthony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 13 FRS -399lb, 11 335is, 05 Tiburon
Location: Biloxi, MS / Gulf Coast 86
Posts: 3,702
Thanks: 5,009
Thanked 3,712 Times in 1,765 Posts
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 4 Thread(s)
Really useful DIY! The pictures really make it.

I'm having a hell of a time with the hard line nuts. This is the second one, but on the first one, suddenly the flare wrench broke free, and I thought I had it. Turns out, it just stripped every single corner of the nut. I just switched over to the opposite side, hoping for better results. It began to strip, and I stopped, resulting in this.

I'm about to PB blast the hell out of it, but just wondering if anyone else had this much of a problem with these particular nuts. I saw one guy towards the beginning of this thread say he had to use pliers. Better option, anyone?
Attached Images
 
__________________

Build Thread | The Venus Project | Any car which holds together for a whole race is too heavy.
Anthony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 07:32 PM   #92
Decay107
Turning is for Nerds
 
Decay107's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Drives: 35 characters is not enough
Location: PDX
Posts: 1,974
Thanks: 836
Thanked 1,259 Times in 717 Posts
Mentioned: 186 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
Really useful DIY! The pictures really make it.

I'm having a hell of a time with the hard line nuts. This is the second one, but on the first one, suddenly the flare wrench broke free, and I thought I had it. Turns out, it just stripped every single corner of the nut. I just switched over to the opposite side, hoping for better results. It began to strip, and I stopped, resulting in this.

I'm about to PB blast the hell out of it, but just wondering if anyone else had this much of a problem with these particular nuts. I saw one guy towards the beginning of this thread say he had to use pliers. Better option, anyone?
Yes, that happened to me also. I gave up due to stripping the nut and not trusting the lack of rational constraint feature on the caliper side banjo bolt of stoptech lines.

If I decide to try again, I'll use a set of vicegrips on that line nut.
Decay107 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 07:33 PM   #93
Anthony
Weight Nazi
 
Anthony's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Drives: 13 FRS -399lb, 11 335is, 05 Tiburon
Location: Biloxi, MS / Gulf Coast 86
Posts: 3,702
Thanks: 5,009
Thanked 3,712 Times in 1,765 Posts
Mentioned: 150 Post(s)
Tagged: 4 Thread(s)
Damn. Well I'm trying to install this brand new AP Sprint kit, so I shan't be giving up. The lines are just one small part.
__________________

Build Thread | The Venus Project | Any car which holds together for a whole race is too heavy.
Anthony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2016, 01:33 AM   #94
nstymatt
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Drives: 2015 brz
Location: bay area, CA
Posts: 37
Thanks: 13
Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Does anyone know what size hose is needed?
nstymatt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2016, 12:22 AM   #95
PitViper
Senior Member
 
PitViper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Drives: 2013 Scion FRS Limited Edition
Location: Wilsonville, OR
Posts: 319
Thanks: 247
Thanked 278 Times in 144 Posts
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony View Post
Really useful DIY! The pictures really make it.

I'm having a hell of a time with the hard line nuts. This is the second one, but on the first one, suddenly the flare wrench broke free, and I thought I had it. Turns out, it just stripped every single corner of the nut. I just switched over to the opposite side, hoping for better results. It began to strip, and I stopped, resulting in this.

I'm about to PB blast the hell out of it, but just wondering if anyone else had this much of a problem with these particular nuts. I saw one guy towards the beginning of this thread say he had to use pliers. Better option, anyone?
I had that problem as well... and I gave up as its my daily driver and i kind of like my brakes working when I push the pedal.

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk
PitViper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-20-2017, 08:49 AM   #96
15limited
Senior Member
 
15limited's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Drives: BRZ
Location: PNW
Posts: 387
Thanks: 456
Thanked 150 Times in 113 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Decay107 View Post
Yes, that happened to me also. I gave up due to stripping the nut and not trusting the lack of rational constraint feature on the caliper side banjo bolt of stoptech lines.

If I decide to try again, I'll use a set of vicegrips on that line nut.
That's what I ended up doing, using vice grips, lossened right up. I thought maybe a flare wrench would be needed, but couldn't believe how easy the edges of the nut seemed to round off despite using an open ended wrench. Tried W-40 and it didn't seem to help any, I don't think PB Blaster or Kroil would even do the trick. Trust me vice grips are an absolute last resort when it comes to nuts and bolts for me, first time I've had to use them on my car but it did the trick.

Sent from my 2PQ93 using Tapatalk
__________________
Perrin Transmission Bolt, Drift Button,Intake Tube, Radiator Hoses, Engine Mounts, Gurney Flap Diode Dynamics Always On Module OLM 3k HID Foglights GCS Smoked Side Markers Motul Gear 300/300 V OE Acantara arm rest Password JDM Dry Carbon rear diffuser Rally Armour Mud flaps H.I.C side & rear visor Gruppe-S UEL header/OP HKS Front Pipe Leg Sport Cat Back Koyorad aluminum radiator Wheelhaus CF low pro 3rd brake light Toms JDM Clear Tail Lamps
15limited is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-08-2017, 03:53 PM   #97
ApexEight
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ Limited 6MT SSM
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 293
Thanks: 195
Thanked 68 Times in 54 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Anyone know the bleeder screw size for the clutch slave cylinder? I want to get a speed bleeder for it.
ApexEight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2017, 10:47 AM   #98
HappyMonkey
Member
 
HappyMonkey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Drives: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited WRC Blue
Location: Kirkland, WA
Posts: 24
Thanks: 9
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
One hint for keeping the brake fluid in the lines and off your floor: These rubber plugs fit in the lines perfectly and prevented any leaks. (I think the pink ones are the plugs I used so you really only need to order those if they're available in only that size) Long story but I had to leave the country in the middle of my upgrade and when I came back two weeks later they were still in place and my floor was dry.
HappyMonkey is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Tags
brakes, fluid, motul, speed bleeders, stoptech

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
BC Racing Coilovers with Free Stainless Steel Brake Lines!!! Dustin@Dynosty Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 21 01-08-2013 10:34 AM
Dynosty Stainless Steel Brake Lines $99 Shipped Dustin@Dynosty Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 9 12-29-2012 09:56 AM
Stoptech stainless brake lines + Motul RBF600 fluid combo No Limit Motorsport Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 9 10-31-2012 07:36 PM
Stoptech Front Stainless Steel Brake Lines Pekingduck Brakes, Suspension, Chassis 1 10-21-2012 10:29 PM
Stainless steel brake lines taosracer Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing 15 09-20-2012 04:09 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:15 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.