dp1 reference (maintenance/consumables/configurations)

[dp1]

Maintenance

Essex AP Racing Sprint BBK caliper service
Contact is Daniel at Essex (704-824-6030). Get them cleaned up and get as much fluid as you possibly can out of them, then block the inlet ports so they don't leak in transit. Mail to HQ:
Essex Parts Services
125 Hampton Ct.
Cramerton, NC 28032

Fluids mostly from @CSG Mike
Engine oil, with Jackson Racing oil cooler [Motul 000756 Chrono 300V 10W-40]
- Amount: 5.5 liters, almost the same in quarts. Additional 1.5-2 for JR oil cooler when first installed.
- Interval: 6-9 track days. Varies widely based on conditions and driver. Cheap insurance.
Transmission fluid [Motul Gear 300 75W-90]
- Amount: 2.2 liters full flush.
- Interval: 6 track days, or any time you feel degradation in the shifter. If shifter feels better immediately after fluid change, shorten your interval by a track day. If it doesn't improve in feel, lengthen by a track day until you find your happy medium.
Brake fluid [Torque RT700]
- Amount: 1 liter full flush, 0.5 liter partial flush.
- Interval: "as needed" or at least once a year. If your pedal feel degrades, partial 0.5l flush. Full 1l flush when changing fluid types. There might be something wrong with your use of brakes if you are boiling 600F+ fluid. If you can't slow down quickly enough with quick and firm brake pedal application (i.e., when using dual purpose street/track pads that usually don't work well on track for long), invest in more aggressive track brake pads, steel lines, and BBK.
Differential fluid [OS Giken OS-250R 80W-250]
- Amount: 1.3 liters full flush.
- Interval: 6-12 track days, depending on how hard you drive. If the rear starts feeling looser, or differential is overheated, change fluid.
SC fluid [Jackson Racing Rotrex fluid and SC Oil Filter]
- Amount: 1 liter for complete fill when kit is first installed. Fluid changes will require less as some fluid stays in radiator.
- Interval: 2y/50k mi per Rotrex. With track use, consider more frequent change of fluid and magnetic filter. I change SC fluid/filter every 15-20 track days due to high rpm use and high boost pulley.

Other Consumables
- Front brake pads track: G-LOC Brakes - G-Loc R12 - GPW7420 - AP Racing CP8350 Racing Caliper - D41 Radial Depth - 20mm Thickness.
- Rear brake pads track: G-LOC Brakes - G-Loc R12 - GP1124 - Subaru BRZ / Scion FR-S / Toyota GT86 - Rear Pads.
- Rotor hardware: AP Racing - 8-Bolt, Fixed Hat, Disc Attachment Hardware Kit (299mm discs)
- Rotor blank left: AP Racing CP3862 11.75" x1.25" (299mm x 32mm) Heavy Duty, 60 Vane, BLANK Racing Brake Disc (Left)
- Rotor blank right: AP Racing CP3862 11.75" x1.25" (299mm x 32mm) Heavy Duty, 60 Vane, BLANK Racing Brake Disc (Right)
- Tire (wet): Michelin PSS - 245/45-17.
- Tire (dry & wet): Toyo Proxes RA1 - 255/40-17 and Toyo Proxes RA1 - 235/40-17.
- Tire (dry): Nitto NT-01 - 255/40-17.
- Air filter: Jackson Racing - 3in Round Air Filter.
- Cabin filter: Subaru - OEM Cabin Air Filter - Subaru BRZ / Scion FR-S / Toyota GT86 - 72880AJ010.
- SC filter: Jackson Racing Rotrex oil filter.
- SC oil: Jackson Racing Rotrex Traction Oil Fluid.
- Belt: Jackson Racing supercharger belt, works with both standard and high boost (smaller) pulley.
- Ignition coil: Carry a spare. Design is not the same for 2015+ as for 2013-2014, so be sure to get the part for your VIN (or with my newer built engine, for the engine [donor car] VIN). They are consumables with track use. If you get P035X (commonly X=1), your ignition coil went bad from the heat, usually accelerated by aftermarket header and no heat shield.
See attached image for cylinder orientation that correlates to X in P035X. Also, birds eye view:
Front of car
------
2 1
4 3
------
Rear of car


Configurations

Alignment from @CSG Mike
- Front (-3.5 with 1/32 toe out) | Rear (-2.4 with 1/16 toe in).

AIM Solo DL from @CSG Mike
- Install RaceStudio2 software (RaceStudio3 is not compatible with Solo DL)
- Plug in your AIM Solo DL to your computer, and turn it on
- Open RaceStudio2
- Click Device Configuration
- Set ECU Manufacturer to Toyota
- Set ECU Model to GT86/Scion_FRS
- Set sampling frequency to maximum for all channels
- Change measurement units to the unit of your choice (only C for temps, no F)
- Click Transmit to upload settings to AIM Solo DL. After this step all available GT86/Scion_FRS channels like oil temp (OILT) will be available on AIM Solo DL when you select them in Menu / Display Setup / Page Setup / Custom Page Setup / (select page to configure, i.e., Custom 1) / Configure / (select field you want to modify) / DOWN / SEL

Channels that I monitor on track: OILT (engine oil temp) | ECT (coolant temp) | IAT (intake air temp) | +/- (time delta from previous best lap) | PredT (predictive lap time)

AP Racing rotor blanks (2-piece rotors)
Torque specs for disc assembly using AP hardware = 18 foot lbs.

Tune (EcuTek) Delicious Flash & Go by @DeliciousTuning
- How to upload new or updated tune.
- How to log and which options to select (see attached image).

Current EcuTek maps:
- Map 1 : 93 oct gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Delicious custom traction control
- Map 2: 100 oct gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Delicious custom traction control
- Map 3: 100 oct gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Delicious custom traction control | Auto blip
- Map 4: 93 oct gas

Upcoming FlexFuel EcuTek maps (tuned for 93oct base):
- Map 1: Exx gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Lowered coolant fan activation temp (200F) | Delicious custom traction control
- Map 1: Exx gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Lowered coolant fan activation temp (200F) | Delicious custom traction control | Auto blip
- Map 3: Exx gas | Launch control 3500 rpm | Flat foot shifting | Lowered coolant fan activation temp (200F)

Stack 3502 oil pressure gauge thresholds
- Street: Dark background for standard, low and high thresholds.
- Track: Dark background above changes to solid red background at 50psi and below and blinks red at 40psi and below.

Tire pressures
- Street: 33-35psi cold.
- Track: 28-30psi cold -> 36-37psi hot.

JRZ doubles settings from @CSG Mike
- Procedure: For both compression and rebound, first go counter-clockwise to full stiff (counter-intuitive but correct for JRZ), then turn clockwise to the first groove (position 0), then keep turning clockwise and count grooves to soften.
- Starting points only, will vary for different tracks/road types/conditions, suspension set-ups, tires/temp, aero, etc.
- Street: Front -C7-R14 | Rear -C4-R12 (driving to/from track).
- Track: Front -C7-R12 | Rear -C4-R10.

[CSG Mike]

Most impressive.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Most impressive.

Yes you are...most important parts (fluids, alignment, dampers) are based on your feedback

[SuperDave]

This thread is awesome

[dp1]

Doing some research on E85, either for delivery near my favorite race tracks or at nearest pumps that carry it...few notes for future reference...

E85 threads:
- http://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo...-vs-e85-2.html
"Oil changes every 1500 miles, injector cleaning every 3-5k miles, plug changes every 3k miles etc."
- http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/...-or-e85-gt-rs/

E85 drums:
http://www.igniteracingfuel.com/racingfuel.html
http://www.renegaderacefuel.com/fuel...ol-race-fuels/
https://vpracingfuels.com/product/c85/
http://www.sunocoracingfuels.com/en/shop

E85 pumps close to race tracks:
NJMP - Mighty Joes - https://goo.gl/maps/Xs7rUnidZMS2 (35mi)
Palmer - Racing Mart - https://goo.gl/maps/FmPJctE1FbP2 (43mi)

[jjaisli]

Originally Posted by dp1

"Oil changes every 1500 miles, injector cleaning every 3-5k miles, plug changes every 3k miles etc."

Bleuch. Oil changes, fine. If you're doing primarily track days you should probably be doing this anyway. But plug changes every 3K miles are really a pain, considering how tricky they are to get to. But I suppose that only amounts to once per season. Could be worse.

Thanks for the links.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by jjaisli

Bleuch. Oil changes, fine. If you're doing primarily track days you should probably be doing this anyway. But plug changes every 3K miles are really a pain, considering how tricky they are to get to. But I suppose that only amounts to once per season. Could be worse.

Thanks for the links.

I don't know if that quote is accurate, still researching. Alcohol absorbs moisture from air and water causes corrosion of metal parts. Not all metal parts are made the same, one can fill up with 93oct after track runs to get much of Ethanol out (especially before winter storage) and there are additives that can be used to manage water in alcohol...tbd what works best. Apparently plugs that run cooler work better with E85, but I need flex so they will likely stay. Oil changes are due to contamination of oil with E85...much more research to be done.

Will consult with @CSG Mike.

Also appreciate comments from others who run E85.

[dp1]

FRS gone, thread closed