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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 12-28-2016, 02:51 PM   #253
Ricks919
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Thank God I don't live anywhere near drift office. I would be penniless.
i will say that he does some damn good work though!!
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:41 PM   #254
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i will say that he does some damn good work though!!
And he has contributed a lot of knowledge to the community. His tuning threads are incredible.
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Old 12-28-2016, 11:33 PM   #255
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If youre staying NA, invest in a better Final Drive Gear. That probably be one of the best mods for the money
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Old 12-29-2016, 10:58 AM   #256
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Keep it simple IMHO;

TRD intake or straight line no bend CAI
EL Headers with fewer bends than stock
port exhaust ports to match header flange tube
final drive change 4.33+

More expensive;

Port the heads, TB and intake horn
internal tranny gearing change

Once you got everything done then get the tune instead of tuning after every single mod. Assuming you got everything done at once
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Old 12-29-2016, 12:56 PM   #257
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I wouldn't touch the ports or the intake.
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:03 PM   #258
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I haven't read this whole thread so apologies if already mentioned, but intake manifold spacers like the Crawford billet power blocks have been shown to make a nice useable shift in the power band for a street car. Those in combination with a quality long tube header, shorter FD, and a tuner who really knows what they are doing - IMHO the best and simplest approach for a street car.
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:09 PM   #259
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I wouldn't touch the ports or the intake.
other than a drop in filter I agree. Unless the cash is just burning a hole in your pocket for that fancy full intake system.
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Old 12-29-2016, 01:28 PM   #260
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If youre staying NA, invest in a better Final Drive Gear. That probably be one of the best mods for the money
$600+ without installation
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:42 PM   #261
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Originally Posted by bfrank1972 View Post
I haven't read this whole thread so apologies if already mentioned, but intake manifold spacers like the Crawford billet power blocks have been shown to make a nice useable shift in the power band for a street car. Those in combination with a quality long tube header, shorter FD, and a tuner who really knows what they are doing - IMHO the best and simplest approach for a street car.
not when it comes to e85, those blocks are useless if the car is tuned to e85
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Old 12-29-2016, 06:07 PM   #262
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not when it comes to e85, those blocks are useless if the car is tuned to e85
Really? That's weird - can you explain the technical reasons why?

I was under the impression that the longer runners shifted the resonant characteristics of the intake so there were stronger pulses earlier in the rev band (making a slightly more use-able torque band), I'd like to know why and E85 tune changes that effect. Maybe has something to do with cam timing?
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:27 PM   #263
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Really? That's weird - can you explain the technical reasons why?

I was under the impression that the longer runners shifted the resonant characteristics of the intake so there were stronger pulses earlier in the rev band (making a slightly more use-able torque band), I'd like to know why and E85 tune changes that effect. Maybe has something to do with cam timing?
I'm not sure why, but I've heard the blocks are only useful if you're not tuned. There's some dynos with stage 2 with and without blocks and theyre the same.
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Old 12-29-2016, 07:38 PM   #264
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On a stock car stock tune The block shift the power band lower in the rpm range and can make a little more peak power as they shift the power band to where the engine is working more efficiently , stock.

Once you get tunes and headers then your usually chamging cam timings and also shifting where the engine is most efficient , this is often higher in the rpm range so the block work against this unless your headers and cam timings are designed to work with the blocks. Same deal with E85 it makes good power through the rpm band but does well over 5500, and the efficiency of engines with the blocks is starting to drop off past that rpm range unless you have made other specific changes to suit the blocks.

So in generall the blocks work well on stock untuned cars and their effectivness drops off as you add other mods

if your going to use blocks then you might be better with something like an ACE CS 400 header which is also designed for low midrange torque

talk to your tuner, see what they recomend
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:39 PM   #265
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I can tell you that the blocks, along with oft tune make a substantial difference in drivablilty. The dreaded torque dip is much less noticeable and there is enough grunt for a 2 litre motor.
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Old 12-30-2016, 04:06 AM   #266
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$600+ without installation
I went with Weir Performance fd. $300 for FD and solid Pinion Spacer
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