Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Paulo86

Hope everything will return to normal ... bad mistake i've done here ...
If any body had problems with header just let me know ...

I have trouble seeing how having a custom cat back would mess up your power so badly (Edelbrock's advertised power is on a completely stock exhaust). Did you get a retune after you gutted your stock header? I have a feeling that you most likely changed the flow characteristics of your header, causing the tune to freak out (assuming its the same tune you had before the cat problems)

[Paulo86]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

I have trouble seeing how having a custom cat back would mess up your power so badly (Edelbrock's advertised power is on a completely stock exhaust). Did you get a retune after you gutted your stock header? I have a feeling that you most likely changed the flow characteristics of your header, causing the tune to freak out (assuming its the same tune you had before the cat problems)

Yes it is because it making the entire exhaust to have a GIGA back pressure .. over heat and a lot of bad things...

For sure the gutted header didn't help. I asked delicious if i had to retune and they said no. Same tune normaly.

The tune didn't freak out because the curve are just the same as before but down low. Afr were great. Man at dyno said it's something he already seen, "clogged exhaust" bad design, bad flow caracteristics.

We will know soon with the complete exhaust

The stock exhaust of the gt86 is a big shit and we all know that so why if we are putting better exhaust parts the engine will lose power ? That's not logic ...
Maybe a good re-tune is needed. But the supercharger is giving air pressure and nothing else, all the other superchargers are doing the same thing and are making more HP with complete exhaust. Is that something so special with the edelbrock ?
I choose it because for me it's the best supercharger on the market yet for the frs/brz/gt86. 1 year of reflection, viewing pdf of all supercharger install on the market. Finaly for me it was an evidence..

Really hope power will be back with new exhaust setup !

[Paulo86]

Here you can look the result ....



Hope i will get the new exhaust fast so i can do an other dyno test ..

[Colin86]

Going to start the install this weekend. Will also be installing a JR dual radiator and a radium catch can.

Any suggestions as to what order I should install things in?

[BigFatFlip]

Originally Posted by Colin86

Any suggestions as to what order I should install things in?

I'd say do the radiator first, you'll have to take off the front bumper anyway and messing with the radiator supports after the air box is installed seems like a pain. Definitely route your lines for the catch cans before putting the manifold on, kindoff a pain to get to the PCV valve after the fact.

Are you doing the remote clutch bleeder also? definitely do that before installing the manifold.

So jelly... I kinda wished I installed my kit but I got a killer deal with my mechanic, plus I got to watch/help

[Colin86]

Originally Posted by BigFatFlip

I'd say do the radiator first, you'll have to take off the front bumper anyway and messing with the radiator supports after the air box is installed seems like a pain. Definitely route your lines for the catch cans before putting the manifold on, kindoff a pain to get to the PCV valve after the fact.

Are you doing the remote clutch bleeder also? definitely do that before installing the manifold.

So jelly... I kinda wished I installed my kit but I got a killer deal with my mechanic, plus I got to watch/help

Not doing the remote bleeder as I don't want to drill/tap anything.

Am excited to take my time and do the work myself. Assuming all goes well today will be my last day driving the car without boost.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Colin86

Going to start the install this weekend. Will also be installing a JR dual radiator and a radium catch can.

Any suggestions as to what order I should install things in?

There's a super efficient way to do the whole thing, but to summarize it very simply, just do the following:

- Drain coolant
- Pull OEM airbox
- Install the radiator
- Install Edelbrock kit

Also take @BigFatFlip advice on Radium Catch Can install.

[Colin86]

Thanks again for all of the help, I can do some searching... but does anyone know off hand how much coolant I'll need with the JR rad?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Colin86

Thanks again for all of the help, I can do some searching... but does anyone know off hand how much coolant I'll need with the JR rad?

About 2 gallons.

[Alltezza]

Originally Posted by Paulo86

Here you can look the result ....



Hope i will get the new exhaust fast so i can do an other dyno test ..

I love this graph but i dont think I know exactly how to read this lol are american dynos and international dynos different?

[Freude am Fahren]

That's in ch and Nm.

I think ch is equal to metric horse power, or PS, which would mean a difference of about 1.5%.

1Nm = ~.74 ft-lb. That's why metric dynos don't cross at 5252 like in the US.

So that red dyno gives roughly 292hp @7119rpm, 229ft-lb. @5917rpm

I'm curious to know more about the car. I assume the green dyno is stock+SC, and red is SC+mods. Blue seems high for stock.

[armstrom]

Originally Posted by Alltezza

I love this graph but i dont think I know exactly how to read this lol are american dynos and international dynos different?

It appears the red green and blue are three different runs with power and torque for each. The plots don't cross at 5252 like a HP/ft-lb plot would because the power is in horsepower (ch in french) but the torque is in newton meters. N-M. Also, the HP and torque scales are different... Also, it looks like these have been corrected to estimate BHP at the crank, not the wheels.

edit: Oops.. got sniped when I had to step away from my desk mid-reply
-Matt

[Paulo86]

Originally Posted by Freude am Fahren

That's in ch and Nm.

I think ch is equal to metric horse power, or PS, which would mean a difference of about 1.5%.

1Nm = ~.74 ft-lb. That's why metric dynos don't cross at 5252 like in the US.

So that red dyno gives roughly 292hp @7119rpm, 229ft-lb. @5917rpm

I'm curious to know more about the car. I assume the green dyno is stock+SC, and red is SC+mods. Blue seems high for stock.

Hi ! I will repost my problem.

Red line is stock exhaust except agency power cat back.

Green is supercharger + shitty exhaust !

Blue is stock with k&n drop in air filter and agency power cat back with stock tune !
We are runing here 98ron octane gas in france, maybe its why we have a little bit more. I'm also using a french anti-friction product that you put in oil and i dyno this product on Harleys we were capable of +6%HP and torque at third oil change with the product ! It takes time to be in place. 2 to 3 oil change with each time product in new oil. It's called Mecacyl.

Everything you want to know just quote me !

[Paulo86]

Originally Posted by Freude am Fahren

That's in ch and Nm.

I think ch is equal to metric horse power, or PS, which would mean a difference of about 1.5%.

1Nm = ~.74 ft-lb. That's why metric dynos don't cross at 5252 like in the US.

So that red dyno gives roughly 292hp @7119rpm, 229ft-lb. @5917rpm

I'm curious to know more about the car. I assume the green dyno is stock+SC, and red is SC+mods. Blue seems high for stock.

Originally Posted by armstrom

It appears the red green and blue are three different runs with power and torque for each. The plots don't cross at 5252 like a HP/ft-lb plot would because the power is in horsepower (ch in french) but the torque is in newton meters. N-M. Also, the HP and torque scales are different... Also, it looks like these have been corrected to estimate BHP at the crank, not the wheels.

edit: Oops.. got sniped when I had to step away from my desk mid-reply
-Matt

Yes corrected BHP at the cranck