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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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02-12-2018, 10:09 PM | #1 |
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Alignment Question
Hey everyone looking for some alignment advice for my car. I'll most be driving Sonoma this year with some events at Thunderhill and Laguna thrown in as well.
With driver the car weighs 2872 List of current modifications I have APR Front Splitter APR GTC 200 Wing Stance XR2 (Double Adjustable-Cannot find spring rates) Perrin Front Sway Bar 19mm WRX Rear Sway Bar 16mm SPC Rear LCA Rear Crossmember Bushing 17x8 wheels with 245/40/17 BFG R1 Not looking for an exact number, more just an area to start the settings off at and then adjust accordingly.
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02-12-2018, 10:15 PM | #2 |
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-3/-2 zero toe. Adjust to even temps.
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Second chance build... or whatever it is.
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02-12-2018, 11:09 PM | #3 |
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Looking for even wear and long lasting tires? Then the sugestion above is sound. Looking for the fastest possible time? Then even temps is not what you are looking for and -3/-2 is almost always too little to start with.
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02-12-2018, 11:29 PM | #4 |
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Any suggestions on a range?
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02-13-2018, 12:25 AM | #5 |
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Depends on your preferences as a driver, setup, and course layout. This is going to be purely a track car running in ST5 right? I would use a tire pyro and mess around until you find something that works for you. If you're mostly running Sonoma and in a certain direction each side would be set differently as well as the corner balancing of the car.
Could start with Front: -3.3 Rear: -2.7. Could do a little toe out up front and some toe in rear. I haven't had aero on my car so I'm not sure how alignment would work with that. Keep notes & data and adjust accordingly. |
02-13-2018, 09:53 AM | #6 |
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Plenty of suggestions thrown around but as it has been mentioned, it depends on driver style and conditions. Instead of throwing numbers out there, I'll just tell you what you are looking for in a pyro reading to know when you have the right settings. Basically, you dont want even temps for fast laps, thats for more or less even wear. For fast laps you need camber that maximize grip on turns, and that will read out as an even spread of temp with the hotter inside and cooler outside. An example of a good spread would be 170 outside, 175 middle, 180 inside. An example of a tire wit too much camber would be 165 outside, 170 middle 180 inside. An example of a car with too little camber would be even temps or close to, like 175 outside, 175 middle, 180 inside.
Unless you already drive at the maximum available grip in turns, which very few people do (im not one of those), as your turning speed increases, so will the roll in your car, and so the amount of camber needed will change. So even after you found your current sweet spot, that will change over time so keep an eye out for that. Edit: also see no mentions of toe. Basically im a preacher of 0 toe in the rear and 0 or minimal toe-out in the front. Toe scrubs speed and wear tires faster, and most people doing toe-in in the rear are trying to compensate for a loose car. After putting a GT-wing in, a loose rear is no longer a problem, its rather making it turn that becomes a challenge. |
02-13-2018, 01:25 PM | #7 |
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Is this strictly for track or is it a daily driver too? Because using a dedicated track alignment on the street isn't going to be much fun.
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02-13-2018, 10:46 PM | #8 |
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ST5 race car
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02-14-2018, 11:34 AM | #9 |
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I would imagine your first priority is to figure out why some very competent alignment shops couldn't get more then -1.7 with RLCA. I had over -2 just from 1" lowering springs and no adjustment.
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02-14-2018, 11:54 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
@Tofurky Maybe if you tried lowering the rear more it would help. Is there a reason why you're running that much rake in the first place? Last edited by FirstWinter; 02-14-2018 at 02:59 PM. |
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02-14-2018, 12:01 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
I'm currently running SPC as well and have not had issues getting -2.5. Didn't know he was running a lot of rake though. I am dropped 1-1.5" currently |
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02-14-2018, 12:24 PM | #12 |
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SPC LCA comes with a eccentric bushing that is pressed in to allow for more or less camber depending on how you put it in. Mine is put to allow for more and the lowest I can go at stockish ride height and 0 toe is -2.8. Lowered around 1inch that goes to like -3.2. I think in OPs case that bushing was pressed in the other way, to reduce camber.
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