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Old 07-11-2018, 05:18 PM   #15
Sportsguy83
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Originally Posted by spitsnaugle View Post
Sportsguy - I assume them is Vorshlag? If so, I was curious about your master cyl firewall adapter, and that answers that. I plan to drill and put a plate with studs on the inside of the firewall. I have taller valve covers than OEM, so I am quite nervous about that clearance.

gtpvette - If I didnt already have that adapter I would give it a shot, I just plan to use a 90* -3an female to -4an female fitting to join it.


By them I mean McLeod Racing which is the brand of those adapters you linked. I think even with taller valve covers as long as they donít extend farther out than stock you should be fine.

For the firewall adapter plate I used a Rywire S2000 Tilton/Wilwood adapter plate. Bolt pattern is very similar to ours just need minor modification.
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Old 07-24-2018, 01:05 PM   #16
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Shipped out headers to JET HOT today to get ceramic coated, trying to keep temps down.

Ordered the following required sensors for the Motec (noting them in my first post as well)
AEM fuel pressure sensor: 30-2130-150 $160.45
AEM (oil) pressure sensor: 30-2131-150 $63.84
AEM wideband + controller: 30-0310 $162.00
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:05 AM   #17
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Started removing the trans supports. Had to stop to get a right-angle drill adapter from home depot to finish drilling the upper sides, got too tight for my drill.





Last edited by spitsnaugle; 07-30-2018 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:35 AM   #18
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Love the updates. I'm local as well (PM sent) and hope to see you around! I look forward to doing this swap next year. Your test rig is sweet!
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Old 07-31-2018, 11:01 PM   #19
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Got all of the OEM trans bracket removed. 2k Epoxy primer and paint on the way to seal up where the spot welds were.


Got bits of the interior removed, getting ready to drill and mounting trans brackets:



Need to get a tubing bender to bend the AC lines closer to the firewall:

Last edited by spitsnaugle; 08-01-2018 at 12:09 AM.
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Old 08-14-2018, 09:27 AM   #20
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Unfortunately I haven't had time to work on the car the two weeks, my Dad passed away unexpectedly August 6th. He was a great car guy, got me in to racing, and even built my LS engine, but never got to drive it.

Since getting back home this week, I've started removing the front cross member, hoping to test fit the engine in from below this weekend, also installed AC in my garage, it'll make some of the upcoming work a bit more comfortable.

Untill then, the car sits, waiting:
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Old 08-17-2018, 11:18 AM   #21
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Jealous of your shop! I've shared my condolences once, but again, really hate to hear about your Dad. That is brutal.
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:49 AM   #22
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UPDATE: Due to some unexpected finances I've backtracked on going the Motec route, I'm offering the Motec and all extra sensors together (included at about $400) for the cost of the Motec PNP Kit.

I relocated the rear brake lines for exhaust room. The lines took some persuasion to get moved. The bolt used from frame rail (pointing with finger in photo below) worked perfect to the higher spot. I plan to wrap these and the fuel lines with foil wrapped fiberglass.


I dropped the crossmember out. I'll try to document the bolts MM later.
  • One Plastic rivet each side at rear of crossmember
  • One nut/bold to each to the LCA.
  • Disconnected steering outer tie rods from hubs (at Castellated nut)
  • Disconnected steering column, marked lines on column and rack to re-align splines.
  • Disconnected sway bar from struts.
  • Two bolts each side at rear of sway bar bracket.
  • Two bolts each side of crossmember above LCA mount.


Took many more measurements, i'm relatively certain that as long as I keep the water pump off the LS engine, I can put it in from below.

I plan to remove the engine from my test rack/trailer tonight, get it bolted to the crossmember, then continue with prepping the engine bay.

Items still needed to be completed:
  • Custom clutch master clyinder bracket - I 3d printed a prototype hoping to get it cut next week.
  • Trim heater lines - made a tool to recreate bead
  • Bend AC lines
  • Install mishimoto radiator
  • Wiring
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Old 08-29-2018, 10:10 PM   #23
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Got the engine off my rack, and onto the cross member.
Had to clearance the mounts a bit, but it looks like with a little bit of grinding the sway bar can stay.






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Old 08-30-2018, 09:31 AM   #24
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3 questions:

- What did you have to trim to keep the swaybar? Looks like it's fine as is... little tight to the steering rack maybe? Maybe trim that molded transmission support a hair?

- You have "bend AC lines" as a to-do. Where did you get AC lines to bend? Any local places to supply?

- You using a T56 or TR6060? Which shifter? Your first post doesn't have the transmission listed.
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Old 08-30-2018, 09:49 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by VR4EVER View Post
3 questions:

- What did you have to trim to keep the swaybar? Looks like it's fine as is... little tight to the steering rack maybe? Maybe trim that molded transmission support a hair?

- You have "bend AC lines" as a to-do. Where did you get AC lines to bend? Any local places to supply?

- You using a T56 or TR6060? Which shifter? Your first post doesn't have the transmission listed.

-- I have not trimmed the oil pan yet. But I'll need to lightly notch it for the sway bar-- it makes contact as I move the swaybar. I did have to cut a notch in the motor mount for the driverside front plug. Cant alter where the steering rack is.

--Bending AC lines-- OEM lines. I can reuse the smaller line to the front condenser. Looking for work arounds for the larger line to the compressor, I've heard of some folks using AN lines.

--GTO T56 (m12) It has the shifter a few inches behind the transmission, using the third hole in the CX racing mount should be just 1" back of the original location.

Last edited by spitsnaugle; 09-19-2018 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 08-30-2018, 05:07 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitsnaugle View Post
-- I have not trimmed the oil pan yet. But I'll need to lightly notch it for the sway bar-- it makes contact as I move the swaybar. I did have to cut a notch in the motor mount for the driverside front plug. Cant alter where the steering rack is.

--Bending AC lines-- OEM lines. I can reuse the smaller line to the front condenser. Looking for work arounds for the larger line to the compressor, I've heard of some folks using AN lines.

--GTO T56 (m12) It has the shifter a few inches behind the transmission, should be just 1"-2" back of the original location.
If you wouldn't mind sharing your fix for the AC lines, I have another car that needs AC lines made too, and I haven't found any solutions I feel comfortable with yet.
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Old 09-02-2018, 03:06 PM   #27
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Getting closer.


GTO AC compressor and GTO alternator pulley wouldnt clear the lower radiator support. Luckily I had a East Coast Electrics alternator from my other LS build.




Dirty Dingo MINI AC Sanden SD7B10 Kit ordered to give me more clearance.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:55 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spitsnaugle View Post
I dropped the crossmember out. I'll try to document the bolts MM later.
  • One Plastic rivet each side at rear of crossmember
  • One nut/bold to each to the LCA.
  • Disconnected steering outer tie rods from hubs (at Castellated nut)
  • Disconnected steering column, marked lines on column and rack to re-align splines.
  • Disconnected sway bar from struts.
  • Two bolts each side at rear of sway bar bracket.
  • Two bolts each side of crossmember above LCA mount.
Quick question regarding the cross member. Nothing there that would melt if I did some welding on it in place is there??? Need a couple of brackets on the front.
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