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Old 12-07-2017, 07:06 PM   #1
rob 2fast4u
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Rob's Built 2JZ BRZ BUILD PIC HEAVY

I think its time to start documenting my build.

some background about me:
From Canada, always wanted a supra and got into them in a very early age... eventually got my license went into the 240sx crowd at the time and built the KA24DE, custom turbo setup and made about 400hp at the wheels back in 2008 I believe? got out of the car scene and went into bikes started off with a ninja 250R then to an R6 then to a zx10R and finally the almighty R1M. started getting bored of it and got the itch again to get into cars I knew the supra's price point raised about 50% from back when I was interested in them and there would be no way I could afford one and do what I wanted to do with the current prices.

So my next best option the "86" ever since they first came out I like the style reminded me of the 90's cars with the hatchback look and long front end but with little more aggressive styling, I started doing research about putting in a 2J in them and turned out it was feasible. And after 2yrs of doing my research I am now ready to start my own, I have acquired a salvaged one from montreal for very good price and started collecting parts whenever I would see some deals.
ONTO THE GOOD STUFF!!!

2013 BRZ with 90k, auto, premium version

Engine
2JZ GE VVTI
vvti deleted
RealStreet RS1200 kit
CP pistons 86.5mm
BC HD rods
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
BC 280 deg cams (GTE)
BC valve springs/retainers
GTE head gasket
ported and polished exhaust ports&combustion chambers, ported intake ports
ACL oversized bearings
Block is bored .02", crank was cut down .01", straighten& magna fluxed
Main caps were lined honed (from arp studs distortion)
Head & Block decked .01"
GTE valve covers

Turbo setup
modified eBay manifold for twin 38mm MVS gates and the larger compressor housing
Borg Warner S472 T4, 1.10A/R, non-billet wheel
50mm bov's
4" downpipes & straight pipe
3" hot side 3.5" cold side intercooler piping
cxracing 12x8x4.5 intercooler core W/custom end tanks
Forward facing intake manifold

Fuel & electronics
Bosch 160lb Injectors
Dual walbro 450 intank pumps (staged)
Aeromotive A1000 FPR and inline filter
Methanol injection, twin 600cc nozzles
ECU master EMU classic
custom wiring harness

Drivetrain
CD009 6spd Transmission
Collins adapter plate
Twin disc
DSS driveshaft and axles
3.54 FD from MK3 supra





August 2017








Going wingless...






new bumper, headlights, driver fender and a used VIS carbon fiber hood







and the tear down starts for a full respray... going with J7 (ford mustang colour)







For the dash,... it will communicate with the EMU giving me fuel lvl, temp, boost, far, knock, speed, rpm and so on... its a 7" tablet crammed into the stock gauge cluster housing and I made my own overlay so it looks like its suppose to be there. cluster turns on when tablet is charging and shuts off and goes to airplane mode when using battery








picked up some fat tires for the back





eBay manifold getting tweaked around to fit the s472 and putting on twin 38 tial waste gates for better boost control.












I have buddy that a painter helping me out with the bodywork/paint booth but he works ridiculous hours so it probably won't be until the new year until the car is painted and then I can begin tearing into it and making some decent progress!
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:06 PM   #2
rob 2fast4u
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:07 PM   #3
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:07 PM   #4
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:33 AM   #5
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Good luck with the swap!




I'm a little triggered that you bought a BRZ and started swapping FRS parts onto it though




#brzmasterrace
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Old 12-27-2017, 02:33 PM   #6
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Thanks guys for the kind words,.. Soloside sorry about that lol I like to keep it toyota,... but the brz offers nicer options like the climate control "GTR style lol"


Here's a question I have bothering me,...

As you all know or may not the fuel tank is shaped like a saddle and the pump is held the drive side compartment and has a venturi line going to the passenger side to suck the extra fuel in that compartment.


But what are we doing to the tank when we put in bigger pumps that only suck from one side of the tank and unable to add a Y-block to the famous pumps out there like a walbro 450. I was planning on running two of them (one on constant and the other switched after 20psi of boost)

-would drilling a hole on the bottom of each side of the tank and adding a bulkhead fitting with an AN line across to cross-feed into each other resolve the problem? thats the best way I was thinking to go about it and was wondering if any of you tried this?

Only problem I see is to snake it around the exhaust and driveshaft


Here's another option I suppose, by putting this inline with the outlet tube coming out of the pump and hopefully have it siphoning the fuel from the other side. Im not sure if that will work since the FPR will keep this fuel at a pressure and might exit where the venturi orifice is. It might actually be needed on the suction side of the pump only problem is most drop in pumps don't have enough meat on them to clamp a tube on. ??

EDIT looking at radiums fuel sending unit diagram, looks like putting this venturi on the return line will work with scavenging fuel from the other side never thought of that
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Old 12-27-2017, 03:31 PM   #7
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I just have a few thoughts:

Dash is a really neat idea, but how practical is it? It makes me nervous to have a battery behind the dash that's more or less permanently mounted in there. I dunno about anyone else, but I don't put too much faith into tablets for their longevity, definitely not Samsung. It certainly was not designed to be a gauge cluster and I honestly don't think it's a good idea. Being in Eastern Canada, I'd think that your tablet would be experiencing some extreme low temperatures which LCDs typically do not like at all.

Also wouldn't those LED indicator lights be super distracting especially at night time?

Those are two things I would be thinking about long and hard since those are the two things relaying information directly to you.
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Old 12-27-2017, 08:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ST185RC View Post
I just have a few thoughts:

Dash is a really neat idea, but how practical is it? It makes me nervous to have a battery behind the dash that's more or less permanently mounted in there. I dunno about anyone else, but I don't put too much faith into tablets for their longevity, definitely not Samsung. It certainly was not designed to be a gauge cluster and I honestly don't think it's a good idea. Being in Eastern Canada, I'd think that your tablet would be experiencing some extreme low temperatures which LCDs typically do not like at all.

Also wouldn't those LED indicator lights be super distracting especially at night time?

Those are two things I would be thinking about long and hard since those are the two things relaying information directly to you.
thanks for the input I appreciate it, I hear you on the longevity but the car won't be driven in the sub zero (celsius) environments but hopefully it does last for quite some time as it is wired into a charger and shouldn't rely on battery power.
That being said I have sat in the car in night time with the led's blinking but being that they are further away in the cluster the light is surprisingly not to bad and its only when the blinkers are on or a shift light or knock... I guess I won't be leaving my signal on like some idiots out there haha. If they do appear unbearable to look at a dab of paint or highlighter should ton the light down or an inline resistor

I have seen ECU Master unveil their new LCD DASH and I'm pretty excited to see it in action this might be the route I go with after I have everything sorted out with the wiring and tuning.
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:44 AM   #9
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Is the delay in the tach reading as bad as that video makes it look? That would be my biggest gripe.

I love the idea of being able to change up your dash layout.
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:57 AM   #10
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It is at the moment, once I switch to the ecumaster Bluetooth it’ll be improved. At the moments it’s on a generic obd2 Bluetooth device
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Old 12-28-2017, 02:33 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by rob 2fast4u View Post
thanks for the input I appreciate it, I hear you on the longevity but the car won't be driven in the sub zero (celsius) environments but hopefully it does last for quite some time as it is wired into a charger and shouldn't rely on battery power.
That being said I have sat in the car in night time with the led's blinking but being that they are further away in the cluster the light is surprisingly not to bad and its only when the blinkers are on or a shift light or knock... I guess I won't be leaving my signal on like some idiots out there haha. If they do appear unbearable to look at a dab of paint or highlighter should ton the light down or an inline resistor

I have seen ECU Master unveil their new LCD DASH and I'm pretty excited to see it in action this might be the route I go with after I have everything sorted out with the wiring and tuning.
I get that it's wired into a charger, but batteries historically don't like being constantly charged. Don't think this has changed. The reason it makes me nervous is that it's on its own power source and if that battery starts leaking for whatever reason, your fuses won't help you. There's a reason why Sard Stacks are $$$; they were engineered and made for a very specific reason so that they last.

Not bashing, just trying to save you some headache in the future. There's all the phone battery myths and legends out there but there are also proven cases where batteries do swell or even blow. I don't want that to happen to you, especially not when you're driving and it's pretty much in your face. I would never have a lithium based battery in my car for a prolonged period of time under any circumstance.

My 2 cents.
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Old 01-21-2018, 01:20 PM   #12
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UPDATE #2

Here's the latest video of the prep work and i'll have the assembly & "blueprinting" video out pretty soon. Make sure to subscribe I need 1000subs




Okay so things are starting to come together, I have the doors, door jamb, trunk painted and cleared. I have also started putting together the block. I am trying to document this the best I can but Im no pro haha. Here's whats been happening the last couple weeks:

getting the block all prepped and cleaned for paint and assembly


getting everything setup


I didn't take any pictures of the measuring but you'll be able to see that in the next video








trunk&door jams getting painted




also got the doors and trunk back on FINALLY! now just needs a final sand on the whole body and it'll be going in the paint booth. I must say those drag radials look pretty nice back there.
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Old 01-21-2018, 03:29 PM   #13
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What did the motor cost like $500 bucks from an IS300?

I've said it in other threads, that if someone is going to do a custom turbo setup and intake manifold on a 2JZ that will already need a stand alone engine management system and fuel system upgrade then save some money and use the 2jzge motor. The only block differences is the oil squirters, and the heads can get ported to flow better like the GTE head like you did.

The only down side on the older 2jzge motors was the distributor vs coil pack setup, but I guess there are fixes for that.
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Old 01-21-2018, 04:14 PM   #14
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