JDL turbo kit owners thread

[BigDaddyD]

Hey guys,

I ordered the kit and it should be here in about 2 weeks. I have been making of list of small tools and such i've seen on the install posts. Is there any specific things that helped you all with the install? Also all I bought was the turbo kit/ tune, will that be enough for now? I plan on getting a catch can and oil cooler eventually, but just wanted to make sure I can survive a little while without it.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by BigDaddyD

Hey guys,

I ordered the kit and it should be here in about 2 weeks. I have been making of list of small tools and such i've seen on the install posts. Is there any specific things that helped you all with the install? Also all I bought was the turbo kit/ tune, will that be enough for now? I plan on getting a catch can and oil cooler eventually, but just wanted to make sure I can survive a little while without it.

You'll also want to purchase the pre-welded oil pan, and some Permatex Ultra Black sealant for when you put the new pan on.

Be sure to install the wastegate to the manifold before securing the manifold to the engine.

If they aren't already included, get some hose clamps and secure them on both ends of the turbo oil drain hose over where it meets the push-lock fittings.

How long is a little while for running without a catch can and oil cooler? I would say that a catch can is critical on a turbo engine as you'll get blowby and crankcase pressure as soon as you start boosting it. Without a catch can, that blowby will recirculate directly back into your intake manifold and reduce your octane and performance. Also the stock rear pcv valve is not designed for boost. I recommend the Verus Engineering can, but if you're on a budget, the Mishimoto 3-port can is decent (just order it separately with the BRZ/FRS mounting bracket). Make sure you read my post in the owner's group on how to properly set up your catch can.

Since you are in California, an engine oil cooler is also a must-have for hard driving, especially in summer months. Your turbo is going to heat up the oil as it's fed through it and you may see temperatures approach dangerous levels after a few back to back pulls without an oil cooler. If you want to wait, just make sure you run 5w30 oil and change it more frequently until you get a cooler, and monitor your oil temps, making sure they don't go above 230-240F.

[BigDaddyD]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

You'll also want to purchase the pre-welded oil pan, and some Permatex Ultra Black sealant for when you put the new pan on.

Be sure to install the wastegate to the manifold before securing the manifold to the engine.

If they aren't already included, get some hose clamps and secure them on both ends of the turbo oil drain hose over where it meets the push-lock fittings.

How long is a little while for running without a catch can and oil cooler? I would say that a catch can is critical on a turbo engine as you'll get blowby and crankcase pressure as soon as you start boosting it. Without a catch can, that blowby will recirculate directly back into your intake manifold and reduce your octane and performance. Also the stock rear pcv valve is not designed for boost. I recommend the Verus Engineering can, but if you're on a budget, the Mishimoto 3-port can is decent (just order it separately with the BRZ/FRS mounting bracket). Make sure you read my post in the owner's group on how to properly set up your catch can.

Since you are in California, an engine oil cooler is also a must-have for hard driving, especially in summer months. Your turbo is going to heat up the oil as it's fed through it and you may see temperatures approach dangerous levels after a few back to back pulls without an oil cooler. If you want to wait, just make sure you run 5w30 oil and change it more frequently until you get a cooler, and monitor your oil temps, making sure they don't go above 230-240F.

I was thinking like a month or 2, but after reading your post I realized I should just do it when I install the kit. There is someone in the FB parts for sale group selling a radium dual catch can for $200. Is it a good deal? Or are catch cans best to buy brand new ?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by BigDaddyD

I was thinking like a month or 2, but after reading your post I realized I should just do it when I install the kit. There is someone in the FB parts for sale group selling a radium dual catch can for $200. Is it a good deal? Or are catch cans best to buy brand new ?

Sounds like a good deal to me. Just make sure you set them up properly, particularly on the passenger side can that's fed by the rear PCV

[BigDaddyD]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Sounds like a good deal to me. Just make sure you set them up properly, particularly on the passenger side can that's fed by the rear PCV

Thanks I’ll make try to do so. And if you’re not busy I’ll check in with you to make sure I did it correctly😅

[Conman]

Thoughts on this kit with stock engine internals?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Conman

Thoughts on this kit with stock engine internals?

Keep the boost low (7-10 psi) and the fuel octane high (93+) and stock engines will be fine

[Conman]

And if I ran low boost with E85? What kind of rpm could I expect it to hit full boost?

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by Conman

And if I ran low boost with E85? What kind of rpm could I expect it to hit full boost?

The RPM when you turbo hits full boost depend on the turbo you choose. Smaller = spools quicker, Larger = spools slower
The base kit comes with a small, quick spooling turbo that delivers low boost as soon as 3000-3500 RPMs.

[C3]

Is anybody seeing low output numbers with the no cut ic option? First day on the dyno after breaking in the new block and only put up 210whp. Another guy with the v1 kit and same turbo put up 287 on the same dyno. I'm wondering if there is a boost pressure drop situation with the no cut.

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by C3

Is anybody seeing low output numbers with the no cut ic option? First day on the dyno after breaking in the new block and only put up 210whp. Another guy with the v1 kit and same turbo put up 287 on the same dyno. I'm wondering if there is a boost pressure drop situation with the no cut.

There shouldn't be any pressure drop especially on a newly broken in engine. I'd have the system checked for boost leaks, which is the likely issue here. Check all the couplings and their clamps, even the one on the back of the intercooler, which can be difficult to see on a no-cut kit. Also check that your wastegate is installed and set up correctly with the vaccum and boost reference lines in the right ports.

[C3]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

There shouldn't be any pressure drop especially on a newly broken in engine. I'd have the system checked for boost leaks, which is the likely issue here. Check all the couplings and their clamps, even the one on the back of the intercooler, which can be difficult to see on a no-cut kit. Also check that your wastegate is installed and set up correctly with the vaccum and boost reference lines in the right ports.

We pressure tested the system when we got on the dyno and found no leaks. But you are right the car is just not making boost so there must be a leak somewhere. Thanks for the reply


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[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by C3

We pressure tested the system when we got on the dyno and found no leaks. But you are right the car is just not making boost so there must be a leak somewhere. Thanks for the reply


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You may need to use smoke when pressure testing so you can find the leak

[Trust86]

You sure wastegate is hooked up/installed correctly? Sounds like valve seat in wastegate wasn’t installed