How I fixed my squeaky clutch

[MastasmurF]

Thanks for this! Worked like a charm. I just cleaned it and re-greased that rod and no more squeak! It was pretty embarrassingly loud and only was really bad in hot temperatures. I'm curious to see how long this lasts though. Took a total of 5 minutes maybe. I can upload some video/audio of the noise if anyone wants to hear it to compared to theirs.

[keithr]

The compatible greases that have been mentioned here are the Lucas Red & Tacky #2, Conoco-Phillips Multiplex Red #2, using Valvoline Max Life #2 Red.

I'm able to find the Lucas locally pretty much everywhere, but it's only available in the grease gun tube and that's not optimal for storage. I came across a couple products at Autozone, and I'm wondering if you guys (@?) think that they are equivalent the ones listed above. One is a STP product, and one is Autozone brand but I suspect it's a rebrand of the STP because they're awfully similar. I took a couple pictures and compared them to the Lucas, they all mention similar important-sounding terms like "extreme pressure", "high temp", "lithium", and "polymers". To my not-knowing-any-better eye, they seem like they should be the same thing/equivalent, but I really don't know how to make that call with confidence (especially since I have no clue what Nichimoly N-130 is).

Yay? Nay?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by keithr

The compatible greases that have been mentioned here are the Lucas Red & Tacky #2, Conoco-Phillips Multiplex Red #2, using Valvoline Max Life #2 Red.

I'm able to find the Lucas locally pretty much everywhere, but it's only available in the grease gun tube and that's not optimal for storage. I came across a couple products at Autozone, and I'm wondering if you guys (Ultramaroon?) think that they are equivalent the ones listed above. One is a STP product, and one is Autozone brand but I suspect it's a rebrand of the STP because they're awfully similar. I took a couple pictures and compared them to the Lucas, they all mention similar important-sounding terms like "extreme pressure", "high temp", "lithium", and "polymers". To my not-knowing-any-better eye, they seem like they should be the same thing/equivalent, but I really don't know how to make that call with confidence (especially since I have no clue what Nichimoly N-130 is).

Yay? Nay?

Any will be fine because you will be removing what's left of the old grease but I see the magic words 'lithium complex' on the can of STP.

That being said, I used the Valvoline equivalent last year. The fork is still quiet but the quill and TOB bushing are gummed up and binding again. :/
@VeloxEric recommends Sil-Glyde. I have an old tube and will try it next. If you go with this, remember that this is a different compound. The OE grease must first be completely removed.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...73#post2941373

http://agscompany.com/product/sil-gl...ant-tube-4-oz/

[lin]

Ultramaroon do you plan on replacing with the revised TOB from the TSB released earlier this year? I am curious if Subaru/Toyota redesigned the part to help prevent lubrication failure.

My fork squeak started a few months ago, and since then I have followed this thread to grease the fork twice but it's lasted a few days at best. I used Valvoline NGLI #2 grade Lithium Complex EP Grease. Looking into the bell housing with a video borescope revealed tons of dirt around the pivot and generally in the housing. It seems like dropping the transmission for a good cleaning may be better in the long run, and might as well try the new TOB while it's out...

[keithr]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Any will be fine because you will be removing what's left of the old grease but I see the magic words 'lithium complex' on the can of STP.

Without removing the trans I don't think I'll be able to clean all the old grease out since my only access is through the fork boot. I'm just going to glob some in there as best as possible (or have the missus do it since her hands are small).

So I was looking for something compatible that I could add in without ill effect. I was hoping one of the products in the tubs would work because like I said I can only find the others (Lucas and Valvoline) in grease gun tubes. The reason I was at autozone in the first place was buying the new slave cylinder. ;-)

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by keithr

I said I can only find the others (Lucas and Valvoline) in grease gun tubes. The reason I was at autozone in the first place was buying the new slave cylinder. ;-)

Oh! I see where this is going.

That can of STP will be a lifetime supply. @humfrz is probably right about compatibility between lithium soap and lithium complex. (read as "all greases from that rack are compatible") I searched for hours but didn't find anything definitive so, publicly on this forum, I take the cautious approach.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Oh! I see where this is going.

That can of STP will be a lifetime supply. @humfrz is probably right about compatibility between lithium soap and lithium complex. (read as "all greases from that rack are compatible") I searched for hours but didn't find anything definitive so, publicly on this forum, I take the cautious approach.

hmmm........I don't recall sayen anything about lithium stuff.

If I were going to lubricate the fork on my car, I'd just use what I had on the shelf ......

We are not lubricating a rocket engine, here ......


humfrz

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by humfrz

hmmm........I don't recall sayen anything about lithium stuff.

If I were going to lubricate the fork on my car, I'd just use what I had on the shelf ......

We are not lubricating a rocket engine, here ......

Ah, true however we are maintaining the function of our prized machines. If it's going to wear out because it's a POS, that's one thing but I'm still going to do whatever I can to keep from contributing to the process. Ever seen grease harden and crumble? It ain't pretty.

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/...-compatibility

edit: oh, yeah... I see what you mean about the lithium stuff. Oops. I just mean we've talked about grease compatibility. It was on my mind and I accidentally dropped it in there.

[keithr]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I take the cautious approach.

...as do I. Far too much so, in most cases I'm sure. But in areas where I just plain don't know any better, I'm not comfortable making judgement calls without hearing an authoritative "yes" or "no" from someone who knows what they're doing.

In this case... I think I heard enough of a yes to be comfortable with it. Unless someone throws their hands up and says otherwise, I will proceed as such.

Seems like the chances are good something else will go wrong with the transmission/clutch before the grease becomes a catastrophic issue.

Thanks!

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by lin

Ultramaroon do you plan on replacing with the revised TOB from the TSB released earlier this year? I am curious if Subaru/Toyota redesigned the part to help prevent lubrication failure.

My fork squeak started a few months ago, and since then I have followed this thread to grease the fork twice but it's lasted a few days at best. I used Valvoline NGLI #2 grade Lithium Complex EP Grease. Looking into the bell housing with a video borescope revealed tons of dirt around the pivot and generally in the housing. It seems like dropping the transmission for a good cleaning may be better in the long run, and might as well try the new TOB while it's out...

Depending on what they changed, I may give it a try. If it cures the wear on the aluminum quill, I'm all in. That's where the TOB starts to bind.

[_sams86_]

A little messy but we'll see how it does.



Sent from my NOKIA 9910 using Tapatalk

[DoomsdayJesus]

I'm sure most everybody already knows this, but the TSB for this issue specifically references drivers who leave their foot on the clutch pedal. Granted, that this is still a design flaw because the throwout bearings are wearing out very prematurely due to either the wrong lubricant or poor Construction. If you drive in stop-and-go traffic for example, you're going to be essentially doing the same thing. But you should avoid leaving your foot on the clutch with the transmission in gear when you are at a stop for this exact reason. You are building up heat in the throwout bearing needlessly, which will contribute to the early breakdown of whatever lubricant you put in there, and eventually bearing failure.

[keithr]

Originally Posted by DoomsdayJesus

I'm sure most everybody already knows this, but the TSB for this issue specifically references drivers who leave their foot on the clutch pedal. Granted, that this is still a design flaw because the throwout bearings are wearing out very prematurely due to either the wrong lubricant or poor Construction. If you drive in stop-and-go traffic for example, you're going to be essentially doing the same thing. But you should avoid leaving your foot on the clutch with the transmission in gear when you are at a stop for this exact reason. You are building up heat in the throwout bearing needlessly, which will contribute to the early breakdown of whatever lubricant you put in there, and eventually bearing failure.

I was recently told by @CSG Mike that idling in neutral at stops caused premature wear on the 1st gear syncros and it was better to remain in gear with the clutch engaged at stops. This is also a safer practice in case of emergency if you need to move quickly.

So, damned if you do, damned if you don't?

I thought the issue was more with people who REST their foot on the clutch while it's disengaged.