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Old 09-02-2014, 10:43 AM   #1975
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Originally Posted by Panman View Post
@CSG Mike @Racecomp Engineering I currently have STI Pink (20mm Drop <1" ) springs on standard shocks/struts If I was to look at Bilsteins would I be better off looking at B6 or B8 as I want to keep the pinks?
B6's will be fine for that drop.

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Old 09-02-2014, 10:44 AM   #1976
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Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
I am on the same tires as before - 225/45 Bridgestone Potenza S-04 Pole positions on stock wheels. The fronts are about 1/2 through their tread life.

Part of it could also be the stiffer bushings and the road I drive is far from the smoothest. Combine that with the new tires and maybe they were having that much more difficult a time. It only did it a couple times under braking and now that I think about it that was the bumpier section. Just never had that happen before so it worried me combined with the lack of rear grip.

I'm going out of town today and will drive the same road on the way back and see what happens. I will have over 200 miles on the new tires at that point.
If the tires are super fresh, they will be squirmy and squiggly as hell. And extra funky if your fronts are "broken in."

Give em that 200 miles to wear in and report back.

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Old 09-03-2014, 12:15 AM   #1977
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If the tires are super fresh, they will be squirmy and squiggly as hell. And extra funky if your fronts are "broken in."

Give em that 200 miles to wear in and report back.

- Andy
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Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Is that 0.08 toe out? That will cause instability...

Also, do you have parts that will let you easily match the alignments left and right? Alternatively, do you have access to a specialized shop that would let you do such a thing?
After 200 miles the car is better, but still not that same. I would say that it is similar to stock at this point and far from the more controlled feeling I had after the Yellows were installed. The tail feels like it wants to step out more suddenly at the limit versus a more controlled slide. The only difference is the front seems to have super fast response to steering inputs even when just freeway driving. Part of me is beginning to think I just prefer the car with a more even camber front and rear as it is easier for me to control at this point in my experience as I feel more comfortable with it.

The .08 is toe in I believe based on appearance and reading others alignments (positive number being toe in, negative toe out). I will confirm with the shop tomorrow. They are a decent shop but I had to get in as I had almost 4 degrees of camber and 1.5 degrees of toe on one side after install. I missed an appointment the day before at a more specialized shop due to install difficulties.

I have nothing to adjust caster unless it can be done stock. I only have the UCA camber bushings in the rear so I need to go back and talk to the tech to see what is left on the table. I had left him with specific numbers (camber -2.2 front, -1.7 rear; zero toe all around) and he made it sound like this was as close as he could get it.
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:41 AM   #1978
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Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
After 200 miles the car is better, but still not that same. I would say that it is similar to stock at this point and far from the more controlled feeling I had after the Yellows were installed. The tail feels like it wants to step out more suddenly at the limit versus a more controlled slide. The only difference is the front seems to have super fast response to steering inputs even when just freeway driving. Part of me is beginning to think I just prefer the car with a more even camber front and rear as it is easier for me to control at this point in my experience as I feel more comfortable with it.

The .08 is toe in I believe based on appearance and reading others alignments (positive number being toe in, negative toe out). I will confirm with the shop tomorrow. They are a decent shop but I had to get in as I had almost 4 degrees of camber and 1.5 degrees of toe on one side after install. I missed an appointment the day before at a more specialized shop due to install difficulties.

I have nothing to adjust caster unless it can be done stock. I only have the UCA camber bushings in the rear so I need to go back and talk to the tech to see what is left on the table. I had left him with specific numbers (camber -2.2 front, -1.7 rear; zero toe all around) and he made it sound like this was as close as he could get it.
If you know anyone with a camber gauge, see if you can borrow it to double check the numbers.

- Andy
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Old 09-04-2014, 12:29 PM   #1979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
If you know anyone with a camber gauge, see if you can borrow it to double check the numbers.

- Andy
I don't but I did take it to another shop to get just an alignement check and the numbers were the same. I also went back to the shop to confirm the .08 is toe in. When talking to the shop about this though his explanation was kind of interesting.

He said that .08 is acutally "zero" toe since it is in the middle of the factory range. I looked confused and he said this is a very common misconception that a measured toe of.00 is not actually straight in the sense of 0 like camber. Is this accurate? If not I will try putting the toe back to zero and go from there before adding more camber back in the rear.
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:06 PM   #1980
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Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
I don't but I did take it to another shop to get just an alignement check and the numbers were the same. I also went back to the shop to confirm the .08 is toe in. When talking to the shop about this though his explanation was kind of interesting.

He said that .08 is acutally "zero" toe since it is in the middle of the factory range. I looked confused and he said this is a very common misconception that a measured toe of.00 is not actually straight in the sense of 0 like camber. Is this accurate? If not I will try putting the toe back to zero and go from there before adding more camber back in the rear.
A good thing to do with the "factory range" specs is write it down on a piece of paper, fold it up, and throw it in the trash. 0 toe is 0 toe.

Positive toe is toe in which should not cause oversteer. I think part of it is tread squirm. A little more rear camber should help...the -1.7 you were hoping for is about right. If you're bored, try swapping the tires front to rear and see how it feels.

- Andy
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:15 PM   #1981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
A good thing to do with the "factory range" specs is write it down on a piece of paper, fold it up, and throw it in the trash. 0 toe is 0 toe.

Positive toe is toe in which should not cause oversteer. I think part of it is tread squirm. A little more rear camber should help...the -1.7 you were hoping for is about right. If you're bored, try swapping the tires front to rear and see how it feels.

- Andy
I couldn't have said it better.

@finch1750 "Factory Specs" are for people who have no interest in changing or customizing their car to their tastes. You clearly know what you like (and dislike), so change away!
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Old 09-04-2014, 04:11 PM   #1982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
A good thing to do with the "factory range" specs is write it down on a piece of paper, fold it up, and throw it in the trash. 0 toe is 0 toe.

Positive toe is toe in which should not cause oversteer. I think part of it is tread squirm. A little more rear camber should help...the -1.7 you were hoping for is about right. If you're bored, try swapping the tires front to rear and see how it feels.

- Andy
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I couldn't have said it better.

@finch1750 "Factory Specs" are for people who have no interest in changing or customizing their car to their tastes. You clearly know what you like (and dislike), so change away!
Thanks guys. I was thinking of swapping the tires and seeing what happened. And yeah, i told the shop I could care less about factory specs but i really didnt know much about toe beyond some basic theory and was just unsure when he explained it. I thought zero toe was zero toe too. Lol.

Ill get a new alignment in a couple weeks and let you guys know how it turns out. Appreciate all the help
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Old 09-07-2014, 11:57 AM   #1983
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Bushings

I am trying to order some bushings. It is very easy to ge my hands on powerflex bushings, but I am not quite sure, what the powerflex equivalents to the whiteline W0509, and W63414 are. I think W63414 is the same as power flex PFR69-810, but I am not sure about W0509.
Can someone Help me?
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Old 09-07-2014, 02:09 PM   #1984
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I am trying to order some bushings. It is very easy to ge my hands on powerflex bushings, but I am not quite sure, what the powerflex equivalents to the whiteline W0509, and W63414 are. I think W63414 is the same as power flex PFR69-810, but I am not sure about W0509.
Can someone Help me?
I'm going to guess that the W0509 is the PFF69-801G because its title is "Front Arm Rear Bushing," and that's what the W0509 is. Plus it can give you +/- 1 degree of camber.

I agree that the W63414 is the PFR69-810, based on the title.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:07 PM   #1985
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Hi CSG/RCE team,

I have a question to ask, not sure if its been posted here, but i am kinda lazy to read thru all the pages..

Am looking to change my current setup to a REALLY comfortable coilover setup and based on a fellow forummer's review and a well made video review, i have been led to believe that RS*R Black-i is the way to do (for my budget).

"More comfortable than the stock setup" has been mentioned a couple of times in the review of the Black-i vs Sports-i vs the something else-i.

My question is:

The Black-i has a spring rate of 7F/7R while the sports-i (supposedly less comfortable) has a spring rate of 6F/7R. While i believe the dampers are tuned differently, can a coilover with a stiffer spring rate really be that much more comfortable??

Isnt the role of the springs to absord the shock??

Sorry for the long ass question, i am really picky about ride comfort. It must be softer and more compliant that stock setup!

Thanks!!
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:14 PM   #1986
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comfortable is subjective but I have been in cars that are more comfortable than the oem set up (Ohlins is one of the few for me)@CSG Mike gave me a ride in his custom valved SRC set up and told me to guess the rate. after I have heard what it actually was it blew my mind away. not only did it handle the corners phenomenally, but it also rides way more comfortable than the oem set up (for me).
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:12 PM   #1987
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Hi CSG/RCE team,

I have a question to ask, not sure if its been posted here, but i am kinda lazy to read thru all the pages..

Am looking to change my current setup to a REALLY comfortable coilover setup and based on a fellow forummer's review and a well made video review, i have been led to believe that RS*R Black-i is the way to do (for my budget).

"More comfortable than the stock setup" has been mentioned a couple of times in the review of the Black-i vs Sports-i vs the something else-i.

My question is:

The Black-i has a spring rate of 7F/7R while the sports-i (supposedly less comfortable) has a spring rate of 6F/7R. While i believe the dampers are tuned differently, can a coilover with a stiffer spring rate really be that much more comfortable??

Isnt the role of the springs to absord the shock??

Sorry for the long ass question, i am really picky about ride comfort. It must be softer and more compliant that stock setup!

Thanks!!
I can't speak to the RSR coilovers as I don't have any first hand experience with them. You may want to check with the user RYU and ultra as I'm pretty sure they've both run their coilovers.

To answer your question, YES you can improve ride comfort while still increasing spring rates. BUT the damper likely won't be cheap.

A very important note: better than stock to one may be much worse than stock to another. It depends on your roads, your expectations, and what kind of bumps bother you. Many will say that their set-up rides "better than stock" but in reality, it's just "different than stock."

I've been on coilovers that swallow up wheel bending potholes without issue, but make the man boobs you didn't know you had jiggle all day going down a concrete stretch of highway. And vice versa...coilovers that are smooth as silk on mostly good but maybe a little choppy pavement, and they make you hit your head on the ceiling on a larger sharp bump.

Both of the above were running stiff rates and could have used some damper tuning. With a little more work they could have had the best of both worlds.

So yes, you can make a coilover with firm rates ride smoothly. It will, however, be easier to make a system that rides well if you're sticking with mild/medium rates as long as you have the travel and good damping. The really excellent damping needed to make very stiff rates ride well generally costs some decent money.

- Andy
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Old 09-09-2014, 09:20 PM   #1988
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and they make you hit your head on the ceiling on a larger sharp bump.
I do this with the OEM suspension.
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