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01-21-2013, 01:12 AM | #15 |
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Okay next person to go into either door, check out some wires on the power window regulator E5 on left door or F1 on right door. Say which door because they might act different.
What is voltage observed on some wires running between the window switch and window motor, on these pins on the window motor connector: Pin 5 white wire, when car acc power is active, and again when acc is cold. Pin 1 white wire/black stripe, when acc power is on, window doing nothing, then again while window rolling up using switch on door. And does voltage change/drop when window reaches top edge? Continue to observe voltage and roll window down. Pin 3 green wire, same tests as pin1. Use a good chassis ground point wire for the negative lead on meter. |
01-21-2013, 02:16 AM | #16 | |
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@2forme @chadstyle @thejevans @trueno86power @Silverdub @Nitro If anyone of you could please help out with this it would be awesome. I am working 12 hours a day and I don't have the tools or time to help right now, but I'm sure one of you are willing to help Thanks!!
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01-21-2013, 08:55 AM | #18 |
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To test the wire you can sometimes use an unravelled paperclip poked into the rear of the pin socket hole where the wire comes out, or use wire viper test clip if you have one - pierces the wire in question with a tiny fang.
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01-21-2013, 09:32 AM | #19 |
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I need to read the rest of the thread to figure out what you're trying to achieve. I'm very familiar with 530T's and have used them for all sorts of strange things...
Unrelated but currently I just ordered a spare garage door remote and a TR7..going to meter a few factory switches and find one that I can pulse 2 or 3 times to open the garage door. I hate the bulky homelink mirror and I'm OCD about having anything in my car like a garage door opener clipped to my visor so I decided to wire this up. I searched for a module that would do this but found nothing.. When I get a minute today I'll read the rest of the thread and see what's the purpose of testing the windows.. I know the BRZ limited are one touch already so I'm guessing you're trying to accomplish something different?
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01-21-2013, 12:33 PM | #20 |
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I may be able to Thursday night, but between work, rugby, and lifting, I don't have much free time anymore.
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The Following User Says Thank You to thejevans For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (01-21-2013) |
01-21-2013, 03:02 PM | #21 | |
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It's not the one-touch up we're after, it's controlling the windows from the remote, and temperature venting, etc... etc.. features that AutoWindow adds. THere's a related thread (that started this one) where there's some discussion about why 530T is used with AutoWindow, and it's not because it offers one-touch feature. It's because the DEI box provides power for window motor while the car is off (acc power is off). That's why AutoWindow uses it. If there were a way to "power the windows" in the FRS/BRZ long enough for AutoWindow to do its deed of remote window control, temperature venting windows, etc... etc.. we'd like to find the way. Exploring that here. Last edited by scottmcphee; 04-28-2013 at 09:48 AM. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to scottmcphee For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (01-21-2013) |
01-21-2013, 03:07 PM | #22 | |
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For this thread, I'm going OCD about "what would it take to power the window system, momentarily?" Long enought to let AutoWindow do something with windows, then go back to sleep. The simplest way may be to find the line in the car that if you tweak it with a pulse, it will activate ACC Power and keep it hot for a few minutes, then power off. You know, like when you shut the car off and sit there after a drive it keeps ACC powered (radio plays, can use windows... ) for up to a certain amount of time, or you open the driver's door. What can I tweak to do that? (Without having or using a key in the car... just want power on ACC, not IGN power). |
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The Following User Says Thank You to scottmcphee For This Useful Post: | Sportsguy83 (01-21-2013) |
01-21-2013, 10:18 PM | #23 |
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I see what you're trying to accomplish now. I know there's only a short amount of time after the ignition is turned off that you can roll up windows before opening a door. I haven't timed it but I'd say definitely less than a minute.
Also, 530Ts are a lot of wiring to install on newer cars since many are capable of windows up and down via can bus. Are you capable of tapping into the can bus wires and sending a pulse to wake up the system and then control the windows or do you have to use switch and motor wires to tie this system in? Just want a little more info before I jump in to discover information that you may already have. Catch me up to speed with your existing knowledge of the system and hopefully this weekend I'll have some time to meter some wires and dig a little deeper.
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01-21-2013, 11:44 PM | #24 |
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Finding a tweak to wake up acc power is just one idea.
We may find that the window regulator is hot all the time, doing tests asked for will find that out. That'd be half the game.. I don't want to make a CAN tie-in for a few reasons, cost the biggest factor. And here's the weird thing with this car... It's CAN to LIN to get to the driver's door, then a UART (not LIN!) hop through the driver's door to reach passenger door. OKAY, that's just the strangest thing I've seen today. So the second biggest reason for not going CAN route is that it's maybe not enough to control the passenger window. If somebody had a data packet sniffer / protocol analyzer, I'd be real curious to see a conversation between the drivers door and passenger door. This is how the passenger window is controlled from the driver side switch, and this is more do-able cost wise and may save running wires into the passenger door. |
01-21-2013, 11:48 PM | #25 | ||
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Quote:
Thanks for helping Chad!! Quote:
Thanks for taking the time to make this happen Scott!
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01-21-2013, 11:50 PM | #26 |
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Scott,
How do you know it's UART through the door? -Acree |
01-21-2013, 11:55 PM | #27 |
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01-22-2013, 12:03 AM | #28 |
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This is way too intricate for me! Cant wait to see a final product!
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