Snapped Throttle Body Bolt

[miffi]

Hey,

My throttle body was making an unusual sound so I took it off to clean it and inspect it. While reinstalling it, one of the bolts snapped. Now, the TB is held in by three bolts.

I'm looking for guidance on how to repair this. Is the best way to fix this, to replace the intake manifold and throttle body together?

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[BigTuna]

Is the part of the bolt stuck in the manifold retrievable? You could try to get it out with an extractor or something before you replace the manifold.

[Tcoat]

Yep. Drill it and use an extractor. Even buying the required tools will be cheaper than replacing everything. Wish I had a dollar for every bolt I have broken off over the decades.

[ka-t_240]

Can you take a pic of the damaged bolt w/out the throttle body? Where did it snap?

[humfrz]

- next time use a 1/4" drive socket on them little bolts.

Yep, drill it out, extract it and re-tap it, if you can get to it.

Bubba says to just remove the TB, goop it up with gasket seal real good, so it don't leak and put the other three bolts back in - three bolts should hold it OK.

humfrz & Bubba

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Bubba says to just remove the TB, goop it up with gasket seal real good, so it don't leak and put the other three bolts back in - three bolts should hold it OK.

humfrz & Bubba

Wish I had a dollar for every time I did that as well.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Wish I had a dollar for every time I did that as well.

Yep, my specialty was oil pan bolts. As long as you don't twist off two in a row and use plenty of gasket seal, it won't leak - very much.


humfrz

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Yep, my specialty was oil pan bolts. As long as you don't twist off two in a row and use plenty of gasket seal, it won't leak - very much.


humfrz

Valve covers the same.

[miffi]

Originally Posted by humfrz

- next time use a 1/4" drive socket on them little bolts.

Ah.....yeah I didn't see a reason to replace my lost 1/4" before. I understand why it exists now.

Originally Posted by humfrz

Yep, drill it out, extract it and re-tap it, if you can get to it.

Bubba says to just remove the TB, goop it up with gasket seal real good, so it don't leak and put the other three bolts back in - three bolts should hold it OK.

humfrz & Bubba

This is going to be the plan. I've never extracted a bolt before but I guess I'm buying an ez-out and a tap and die set. If that fails, goop it is.

Originally Posted by ka-t_240

Can you take a pic of the damaged bolt w/out the throttle body? Where did it snap?

I'm not sure where it snapped. It was the last bolt in and uh....I just left it. Fuel trims look fine. I will pull it this weekend and grab a picture.

Originally Posted by BigTuna

Is the part of the bolt stuck in the manifold retrievable? You could try to get it out with an extractor or something before you replace the manifold.

Haven't looked yet but it probably is.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Yep. Drill it and use an extractor. Even buying the required tools will be cheaper than replacing everything. Wish I had a dollar for every bolt I have broken off over the decades.

Thanks, this is going to be the plan. Do you recommend any brands of extractors or tap and die sets?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by miffi

Ah.....yeah I didn't see a reason to replace my lost 1/4" before. I understand why it exists now.






This is going to be the plan. I've never extracted a bolt before but I guess I'm buying an ez-out and a tap and die set. If that fails, goop it is.






I'm not sure where it snapped. It was the last bolt in and uh....I just left it. Fuel trims look fine. I will pull it this weekend and grab a picture.




Haven't looked yet but it probably is.





Thanks, this is going to be the plan. Do you recommend any brands of extractors or tap and die sets?

No particular brand recommendation just don't cheap out. Take it slow and don't try to rush the job and it can actually be pretty easy to do. Make sure you tape up any openings so you don't get bits of metal in the intake. You may even get lucky and when you pull it off you will find there is still a fair bit of bolt sticking out.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

No particular brand recommendation just don't cheap out. Take it slow and don't try to rush the job and it can actually be pretty easy to do. Make sure you tape up any openings so you don't get bits of metal in the intake. You may even get lucky and when you pull it off you will find there is still a fair bit of bolt sticking out.

Nah, never happen. I always found that they break off flush with the body and they break on a jagged slope so that it's practically impossible to catch it with a center punch to make a dent to start the drill bit and that the size drill bit you need is missing because you broke it off trying this the last time -


humfrz

[S3pt1c]

You may be able to use a drill bit at least half the diameter of the existing stud. Drill a hole about 5 mm deep, then spray WD40 down the hole to loosen to the bolt as much as possible. Then get a Philips (or flat head of you think it will work) screwdriver (one that’s disposable, not your pride and joy), or even a long Allen key of you think it will do the job, that is just a tiny bit wider than the drill bit and see if you can tap it into the hole in the stud with a small hammer. You need to get it as deep as the hole you drilled, and a good friction forced fit. Then you may be able to slowly and carefully unscrew if the rest of the way. Don’t try to use any kind of ratchet. Do it by hand as you need a really good feel for what is happening.
You could also try heating up the metal on the outside of the area the broken bolt is in with a blowtorch (so the outset metal expands and frees off the friction on the bolt inside), however BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL because of the fuel around. If in doubt don’t use heat at all. A heat gun is no safer than a blowtorch so don’t think that there’s no risk with one.
I have used this method in the past and it has worked for me 90% of the time.
Good luck.


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[maslin]

Ease of removal depends a lot on the bolt/hole interference, as well as the reason it broke off.

Interference threads and cross threaded? Good luck.

Loose threads and overtorqued? Should back right out as soon as the left hand drill bit bites.



That brings us to left hand drill bits. They're awesome. Specialized, but awesome. I believe the set I have was close to $400? Short cobalt left hand drill bits and a variety of removal tools. SnapOn, so you are paying for it. EXD35, currently $375 MSRP.

Removing broken bolts is part science, part experience, and part luck. 5 minutes, or several hours.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by S3pt1c

You may be able to use a drill bit at least half the diameter of the existing stud. Drill a hole about 5 mm deep, then spray WD40 down the hole to loosen to the bolt as much as possible. Then get a Philips (or flat head of you think it will work) screwdriver (one that’s disposable, not your pride and joy), or even a long Allen key of you think it will do the job, that is just a tiny bit wider than the drill bit and see if you can tap it into the hole in the stud with a small hammer. You need to get it as deep as the hole you drilled, and a good friction forced fit. Then you may be able to slowly and carefully unscrew if the rest of the way. Don’t try to use any kind of ratchet. Do it by hand as you need a really good feel for what is happening.
You could also try heating up the metal on the outside of the area the broken bolt is in with a blowtorch (so the outset metal expands and frees off the friction on the bolt inside), however BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL because of the fuel around. If in doubt don’t use heat at all. A heat gun is no safer than a blowtorch so don’t think that there’s no risk with one.
I have used this method in the past and it has worked for me 90% of the time.
Good luck.


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DAMN - that's old school -


humfrz