OFT OTS TUNE= Coilpack killer??

[Kronos]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

While you're down there you might as well do all them (spark plugs) for shits and giggles, that way you don't waste time in the future

👍 dude I really appreciate. For people like me who are just starting to learn about everything it's great to have some reassurance and guidance. this forum is one of the best. thanks again !


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[Gords_zenith]

Originally Posted by Kronos

Just threw p0353 code for the 4th time in the last 2 months. I haven't replaced anything yet. I'm pretty unfamiliar with this. What exactly was it that had a loose connection? And how did you check it?

Sorry for the late reply. The connection to the coil pack. Apparently they just unplugged it, put some dielectric grease in it and plugged it back in. They swapped the coil to a different cylinder to see if the code followed. So far so good.

[tCsonfrs]

Since this thread has been brought back from the dead I thought I would update it:

I've got almost 63k on the car now and everything has been flawless; its been driven in the rain, snow, and even packed to the brim with wheels and tires and a passenger in 103F air temps on a 4 hour road trip with no problems. It did throw a code for coil pack failure again once back in November I think, I cleared it and it never came back.


So overall I'm pretty happy, one day I'll get around to wrapping or coating the header. One day.

[tCsonfrs]

Bump, car threw a P0352 code this morning on my way to work with 85,111 miles on it, I cleared the code, the saga continues......

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by tCsonfrs

Bump, car threw a P0352 code this morning on my way to work with 85,111 miles on it, I cleared the code, the saga continues......

And it will continue , I guess this issue so intermittent and hit or miss. You're almost to the 100k mark, might as well save up for some coils and plugs now as iridiums last around 100k

[tCsonfrs]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

And it will continue , I guess this issue so intermittent and hit or miss. You're almost to the 100k mark, might as well save up for some coils and plugs now as iridiums last around 100k

So I've replaced it and everything is kosher so far. I'll update if that changes.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by tCsonfrs

So I've replaced it and everything is kosher so far. I'll update if that changes.

Important to note supposedly the 2015s+ have a different coil pack

[AndyBRZ]

If you have P035X codes go through the following elimination process:
1) Do you have any heat sources in the bottom of the motor, meaning the header or your short pipe after the header is leaking exhaust or do you have aftermarket parts down there that are not ceramic coated or wrapped? If you answer is yes to any of these items, eliminate the source of heat before you do anything else. I have seen a lot of aftermarket headers that loosen up and then leak exhaust gases. Also the short pipe after the header going in the bottom right side is a huge source of radiant heat for the starter, for coil 3 and it could also potentially affect coil 1.
2) Starts swapping coils between cylinders and keep track of them related to misfires. Write down the part number stamped in the coil and check to see what level it is. Always get the newest one (C3 level). If it follows the coil, replace it and if it stays in the hole check the wiring and the spark plug. I always recommend to install the latest part numbers as they frequently superpose parts with warranty issues or outdated designs. You can buy direct from Subaru. Since you are playing with the coils I would recommend to remove the spark plugs as well, one at a time. You want to do a visual inspection in the spark plug and check for oil, burnt electrodes or any other damage signs. Most importantly, you want to check cylinder compression and leak down and record it for each hole. If you have some leakage at all times in any given cylinder, you may have cylinder leakage through the DI injector seals which will cause a misfire (next point). Regardless, this is very valuable information and in H motors takes just longer than the rest of engine configurations so you may as well do it if you are there already.
3) If from previous point you are not sure all your cylinder had good compression or acceptable leak down and you also have heard rapid crackling or cricket noises at wide open throttle, bad news going your way. These noises are related to direct fuel injectors leaking compression through the seals which effectively allow compression out of the motor and it will be detected as a misfire. This is a very dangerous condition and many track rats like me have even blown motors out of it as it effectively ultraleans that particular cylinder. Address this problem if you have it. If you are handy or have a good mechanic friend, it takes about 450 bucks in OEM parts (Mainly O-Rings, special tool, etc. and parts only available from Toyota) and it takes about 3 hours. Gather all the videos and information out there to do it right.
I would say 95% of people will contain the P035X issues within these 3 steps.
4) Unfortunately if you still have P035X codes after following these 3 steps, you are in for a lot more work and you need professional and expert help.
I hope this helps you folks.

[finch1750]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

Important to note supposedly the 2015s+ have a different coil pack

They also are a different plug so are not backwards compatible unfortunately :frown:

[ZZT86]

Have been tuned on the juice for almost 4 years without a hitch but my header is ceramic coated inside & out - Under hood temps are very cool

[microSDHC]

Thanks for the info @AndyBRZ. I just hit this this weekend at Thunderhill. I’d tracked the car 5 times before last year, but this was the first track day since flashing the OFT OTS tune. I got a CEL during the last session of the day turned out to be P0351. On the way home it sounded like a firecracker in the engine bay. I drove it very gingerly all the way home. I figured I need a new direct injector and I’m unsure of the state of the other seals. I ordered a full set of coil packs and direct injectors and will try to replace them.

I’ll have to double check, but I thought the stock ROM I had incorporated the so called tip-in fixes. So it may just be heat related. I have the stock headers, I’m wondering if getting some good vents will help alleviate the issue.


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[AndyBRZ]

I am glad I helped you. The hood louvers work very well. There are several kinds but some of them are way better than others but even with good hood louvers you will get misfire codes if you have "issues" down there. I will try to explain. The stock headers are very well insulated but they still carry tons of heat and the proof of that is your P0351 code which is your passenger front cylinder which is right under the coil for spark 1. The radiant heat is brutal and it is probably setting off the code. I have tried also heat tape in top of the coil pack but I personally think it is a waste of time. I have custom built equal length headers that I Swayne coated inside and out. This is the best thing you can do to dissipate heat in the engine compartment and in my case, it works very well. After a hot track session you can literally touch my header with your hand. Unfortunately I was getting P0353 which is the passenger rear and the reason for it was that the short exhaust pipe that connects the header to the cat-back was super hot and radiant heat was killing #3 coil.
If you add these external heat sources to the potential heat produced by leaky direct injectors on any given cylinder you have a real mess of heat everywhere in the side of the motor there that all of it is conducive to misfire codes and regardless of hood louvers, they will come out and show their ugly face.
I would say that if you get more misfires after you do the coilpacks and the DI injectors, it is worth to replace the factory fuel pump with a DWXXX.
If you replace the fuel pump you should add the fuel trap door so you do not starve it from fuel on left turns.
The fuel pump will ensure fuel feed to the high pressure pump and help avoiding the firecrackers.
I am personally still playing with all of these variables and for sure I will know more in a few weeks. I am changing all my DI seals, spark plugs and adding a DW fuel pump next weekend. I have a full calendar of track events this year so I will update as I go, specially if I finally get rid of misfire codes and firecrackers. I hope so because if I don't I am going to seriously consider either removing DI system or maybe a sensible engine swap with something less sophisticated but far more reliable, in the H configuration of course.

[AndyBRZ]

Originally Posted by AndyBRZ

I am glad I helped you. The hood louvers work very well. There are several kinds but some of them are way better than others but even with good hood louvers you will get misfire codes if you have "issues" down there. I will try to explain. The stock headers are very well insulated but they still carry tons of heat and the proof of that is your P0351 code which is your passenger front cylinder which is right under the coil for spark 1. The radiant heat is brutal and it is probably setting off the code. I have tried also heat tape in top of the coil pack but I personally think it is a waste of time. I have custom built equal length headers that I Swayne coated inside and out. This is the best thing you can do to dissipate heat in the engine compartment and in my case, it works very well. After a hot track session you can literally touch my header with your hand. Unfortunately I was getting P0353 which is the passenger rear and the reason for it was that the short exhaust pipe that connects the header to the cat-back was super hot and radiant heat was killing #3 coil.
If you add these external heat sources to the potential heat produced by leaky direct injectors on any given cylinder you have a real mess of heat everywhere in the side of the motor there that all of it is conducive to misfire codes and regardless of hood louvers, they will come out and show their ugly face.
I would say that if you get more misfires after you do the coilpacks and the DI injectors, it is worth to replace the factory fuel pump with a DWXXX.
If you replace the fuel pump you should add the fuel trap door so you do not starve it from fuel on left turns.
The fuel pump will ensure fuel feed to the high pressure pump and help avoiding the firecrackers.
I am personally still playing with all of these variables and for sure I will know more in a few weeks. I am changing all my DI seals, spark plugs and adding a DW fuel pump next weekend. I have a full calendar of track events this year so I will update as I go, specially if I finally get rid of misfire codes and firecrackers. I hope so because if I don't I am going to seriously consider either removing DI system or maybe a sensible engine swap with something less sophisticated but far more reliable, in the H configuration of course.

Update 7 months later and a full track season behind since I posted the firecracker shenanigans. Zero issues with firecracker noises and zero codes. In several events we even double stinted the car all weekend long.
I ended up removing the high pressure fuel system and found 1 direct injector (#3) flowing 15% more fuel than the other 3 injectors so I replaced it. The body of the injector looked burnt as hell. I looked at the pistons with a boroscope and everything looks good but #3 looks suspicious with a small nick in the top of the piston bowl but since it is not using oil I did not even bother to check compression or leak down. It may be down a hair in power but I do not really care as I am going to rebuild the motor soon with better rotating parts and blue print it for added reliability. This factory motor has 26k track miles and I think it owes me nothing.
To the high pressure fuel system, all the DI seals were questionable or almost disintegrated so I replaced them all along with the one injector and all the HP lines.
I also removed the flex fuel E85 system. I tested several times between different pumps e85 fuel (More like E5X'sh, E6X'sh) versus good 93 and the lap times difference were close to nothing where getting e85 in some tracks is a royal PITA.
Totally not worth the extra work and I am not going to buy drum E85. I ran only 93 gas and re-instated my secondary lambda (Even passed emissions in IL with a full cage and gutted BRZ so I can still drive it to the gas station).
I also insulated the exhaust very well under the ECU, cylinder 3 and starter area. Installed heat blankets around the header connection pipe located in that area. No more heat issues either and the started does not get hot anymore.
I hope this helps.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by microSDHC

Thanks for the info @AndyBRZ. I just hit this this weekend at Thunderhill. I’d tracked the car 5 times before last year, but this was the first track day since flashing the OFT OTS tune. I got a CEL during the last session of the day turned out to be P0351. On the way home it sounded like a firecracker in the engine bay. I drove it very gingerly all the way home. I figured I need a new direct injector and I’m unsure of the state of the other seals. I ordered a full set of coil packs and direct injectors and will try to replace them.

I’ll have to double check, but I thought the stock ROM I had incorporated the so called tip-in fixes. So it may just be heat related. I have the stock headers, I’m wondering if getting some good vents will help alleviate the issue.


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Probably could have gotten by with just DI seals to fix your fireworks. MUUUCH cheaper even if you have to purchase a seal tool.