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Old 07-13-2014, 02:57 PM   #141
zkv476
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Car: '14 BRZ
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Suspension: RCE Yellows (20mm drop)
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Axle broke story: Eventually...

I've had ticking going on for a few weeks that's progressively gotten more frequent and I'm feeling I should replace it soon. Started even when I was on stock suspension but given that now I'm slightly lowered and have an SC the dealer's not going to warranty it, granted I should have had it checked out much sooner but I didn't realize it was the axles unless it was too late. Is the 20mm drop geometry likely to repeatedly destroy axles or did I just have a bad one from the factory? I've been considering diff risers but only if it's necessary.
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Old 08-14-2014, 10:50 AM   #142
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What I'd really like to know is how many people have cars lowered more than 2.5"s and HAVEN'T broken an axle?

I don't plan on driving hard, I just want to like the way my car looks. But I don't want to break anything
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Old 08-21-2014, 02:55 PM   #143
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For anyone who has confirmed it's the axle: does it sound like this?

[ame]http://youtu.be/OZoN6mWBgro[/ame]
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Old 08-21-2014, 05:15 PM   #144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzo View Post
For anyone who has confirmed it's the axle: does it sound like this?

Not exactly. That little click/ping could just be the wheel bearing nut needing a re-torque. It's possibly the CV, but I don't think it is.

A bad CV jont sounds like a more regular clicking that happens in time with wheel rotation. The more the joint is deflected, the more prominent the click will be. In a FWD car, the easy way to do this is to turn the wheel to full left/right lock and drive forward/reverse. RWD it's a little harder to deflect the axle, but it should have a more regular clicking.
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Old 08-21-2014, 06:03 PM   #145
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Wouldn't the spacers make the angle slightly greater?

What is it that causes the CV's to fail? Is it the increased angle, or that when lowered the axles are pulled out of the CV's slightly?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Roxy86 View Post
S2000's have a similar problem with lowered cars...
Someone should develop some alxe spacers - pushing the axles further in by the CV


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Old 08-21-2014, 06:11 PM   #146
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Spacer can't be made for our cars because our cars don't use flange style axles.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:56 PM   #147
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I've had this same ticking/clicking noise coming from my drivers side rear axle for the past 2 months and its been resolved after a tech greased my spindle.

First dealership had the car in for 2 days and came back asking for $600 to replace the axle, they blamed my lowering springs. After some back and forth I took the car to another dealership, after that tech read the notes from the last dealership they also concluded it needed a new axle. I succumbed and they ordered the part.

Fast forward to today, i brought the car back to have the axle replaced but one of the senior techs wasn't totally convinced it was an axle issue. After giving him a ride along he had an idea and 20mins later i took the car out for another spin and no more clicking/ticking/tapping noises.

He removed the hub/wheel/axle assembly, cleaned it, greased it, retorqued and boom. Issue resolved.

If you're also encountering this issue I'd recommend you try the above solution first before replacing your axle.

EDIT: Just to be clear, this is the noise i was hearing: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43936
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Last edited by Jac; 09-02-2014 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Linking to the noise i had
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Old 09-04-2014, 02:18 AM   #148
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I have the same sound. I'm bone stock. I have a appointment with the dealer tomorrow so we'll see what's up.
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Old 09-05-2014, 12:21 PM   #149
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Yeah, axle spacers won't help.

The best methods to keep from busting the axles are:
Differential risers
Subframe risers
Upgraded axles

Keep in mind that diff risers, whil raising the diff by almost an inch, is going to dramatically increase the noise entering the cabin from the diff. Subframe risers will help, but not as much as the diff risers. However you won't get the dramatic increase in NVH either. Upgraded axles help but if they're still at an extreme angle, they won't last forever.

Seems like the best solution without sacrificing the daily driveability of the car is upgraded axles and subframe risers. That will raise the subframe by 10mm or so and give you stronger axles to work with.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:18 AM   #150
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Add me to the list
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Does anyone know the torque spec for the axle nut?
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Last edited by Dipstik-sportech; 09-08-2014 at 01:26 AM.
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:37 AM   #151
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Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech View Post
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Does anyone know the torque spec for the axle nut?
140.1 ft-lbs
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Old 09-08-2014, 12:44 AM   #152
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Also Add me to the list. Broke it the same weekend as Cale up there ^^^, only mine happened on the way home from the track, 1 mile from home.

Car: BRZ 13
MI: 9,300
Use: Autox, Road Course, Street. Never Dragged it.
Lowered: Yes - see photo below
Power: ~265 to the wheels
Forced Induction: Yes, Vortech S/C
Axle broke story: 2nd major 3 day track event since S/C, 5th overall. Everything went fine on the track, was driving home (~2hrs) and 1 mile from home I hit a sizeable bump in the road and snap, no more power to the wheels. Haven't taken it apart yet - but it's pretty clear:
[ame]http://youtu.be/yRhIxNFClNs[/ame]

The Car as it stands:
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Old 09-08-2014, 07:43 AM   #153
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Welll allmost a year later and I've still didn't broke an axle !

Because of this :

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Old 09-14-2014, 04:00 AM   #154
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Without going under the car. How can you tell if the axle is broken? Is there a loud humming noise
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