How to use the OEM amp Wiring

[SubieNubie]

Originally Posted by Chimera

Ktp 445u works there b/c stock amp, and it, are both rated at 15A. Like B-R-Z said, you can probably run other accessories safely enough, but if you are adding a sub you will need a new power line, may as well run off of that.

I was planning on powering the line out converter from the power wire that i will eventally run. I was only looking to set this up temporary because i didnt want to cut the rca's off the KTP-445U harness, knowing full well i was going to use them later.

[PandaSPUR]

Gonna bump this since I'm hoping to do something similar..

Was going to go with the Alpine KTP-445U as suggested, but it seems like it's not the best option? Has anyone else tried a different amp other than the Alpine or the Kicker
previously mentioned by @alexand3r?

Also planning to grab the Alpine SPR-60 speakers for my door. Basically looking for a bit more clarity and bass without adding a subwoofer or additional amps :|

[SubieNubie]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Gonna bump this since I'm hoping to do something similar..

Was going to go with the Alpine KTP-445U as suggested, but it seems like it's not the best option? Has anyone else tried a different amp other than the Alpine or the Kicker
previously mentioned by @alexand3r?

Also planning to grab the Alpine SPR-60 speakers for my door. Basically looking for a bit more clarity and bass without adding a subwoofer or additional amps :|

I know Clarion makes one. If you go to Crutchfield or Sonicelectronix they have some other choices. With these mini amps your performance options are kinda limited. They are really only marketed as a slight boost in power for a stock system.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

I know Clarion makes one. If you go to Crutchfield or Sonicelectronix they have some other choices. With these mini amps your performance options are kinda limited. They are really only marketed as a slight boost in power for a stock system.

Thats what I'm kinda confused about, the Kicker one linked a page or two back is bigger, but only 2 channel and 30W per channel at 4Ohms. And apparently sounds better?

I wouldn't even mind using a slightly bigger amp and putting it in the same area, but above my spare tire lid if it means better sound.

I just want to get better sound without adding a subwoofer in the trunk (takes up space and adds weight, meh)

EDIT: Looking on Crutchfield, stuff like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130PRSD....html?tp=35757 looks interesting to me. Although that amp specifically would probably melt the stock power wires...

[Porcupint]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Thats what I'm kinda confused about, the Kicker one linked a page or two back is bigger, but only 2 channel and 30W per channel at 4Ohms. And apparently sounds better?

I wouldn't even mind using a slightly bigger amp and putting it in the same area, but above my spare tire lid if it means better sound.

I just want to get better sound without adding a subwoofer in the trunk (takes up space and adds weight, meh)

EDIT: Looking on Crutchfield, stuff like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130PRSD....html?tp=35757 looks interesting to me. Although that amp specifically would probably melt the stock power wires...

I'm pretty much wanting to do the same exact thing. Just haven't figured out the best way to do it.

And yes, that amp would not be good to use on the stock wiring. You'd want to run an 8 gauge power and ground wire at minimum.

[SubieNubie]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Thats what I'm kinda confused about, the Kicker one linked a page or two back is bigger, but only 2 channel and 30W per channel at 4Ohms. And apparently sounds better?

I wouldn't even mind using a slightly bigger amp and putting it in the same area, but above my spare tire lid if it means better sound.

I just want to get better sound without adding a subwoofer in the trunk (takes up space and adds weight, meh)

EDIT: Looking on Crutchfield, stuff like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130PRSD....html?tp=35757 looks interesting to me. Although that amp specifically would probably melt the stock power wires...

Most use the mini amps specifically for use with the stock amplifier wiring,making it almost PnP without cutting. And due to it's size, squeezing it into the factory location. To me if your pulling power wires another, I'd shift to a full size amp just for flexablitiy.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

Most use the mini amps specifically for use with the stock amplifier wiring,making it almost PnP without cutting. And due to it's size, squeezing it into the factory location. To me if your pulling power wires another, I'd shift to a full size amp just for flexablitiy.

Right, I can understand the reasoning behind it all.

But I'm just wondering if using a full sized but still low power amp would be better. Like that Kicker amp with 2x30W RMS that was mentioned. Apparently it still fits, and that power draw is low enough to not need new wiring.

How complicated would new wiring be anyway though btw? I assume I only need to change the two power leads and the rest of the wiring is still good enough?

EDIT: Looks like I'd need to pull off trim panels and run a new line to the battery through the firewall. If I go this route, I might just put a full sized 4 channel amp in the back to power door speakers and leave the option for a easy subwoofer addition in the future.

[SubieNubie]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Right, I can understand the reasoning behind it all.

But I'm just wondering if using a full sized but still low power amp would be better. Like that Kicker amp with 2x30W RMS that was mentioned. Apparently it still fits, and that power draw is low enough to not need new wiring.

How complicated would new wiring be anyway though btw? I assume I only need to change the two power leads and the rest of the wiring is still good enough?

EDIT: Looks like I'd need to pull off trim panels and run a new line to the battery through the firewall. If I go this route, I might just put a full sized 4 channel amp in the back to power door speakers and leave the option for a easy subwoofer addition in the future.

If you could get away with using the factory wiring I would. If the need for larger wiring is needed, you put pull power from the battery, ground from the chassis, remote and a line out from the factory wiring from the amp.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

If you could get away with using the factory wiring I would. If the need for larger wiring is needed, you put pull power from the battery, ground from the chassis, remote and a line out from the factory wiring from the amp.

Ic ic.

doing wiring in the trunk sounds like the easy part. Getting wiring routed from the passenger side to the driver side and to the back is what I'm not sure about.

[SubieNubie]

Originally Posted by PandaSPUR

Ic ic.

doing wiring in the trunk sounds like the easy part. Getting wiring routed from the passenger side to the driver side and to the back is what I'm not sure about.

There a bunch of DiY's ob this site and others in addition to the plethora of Youtube videos. There are holes in the fire wall specially for routing wires.

[PandaSPUR]

Originally Posted by SubieNubie

There a bunch of DiY's ob this site and others in addition to the plethora of Youtube videos. There are holes in the fire wall specially for routing wires.

Yea apparently the install guide for the OEM Audio system is a good place to look. Will take a look at that once I'm out of work lol.

[PandaSPUR]

Okay so I took a look at the guide video for OEM Audio+ installation. Removing the panels looks pretty simple. Sadly I cant just go to my car and mess around right now since its parked in a garage/lot somewhere.

Anyway. I'll end up getting some 4 gauge wire (just in case, for future possibilities) and wire that from the battery to the back. Ground cable I can just attach to the chassis in the trunk right?

No need to run RCAs since we can split that off the factory harness. Same with remote wire.

Anyone know how long the power wire needs to be to go from driver side trunk to the battery?

[B-R-Z]

Yes, you can get remote wire and high level audio signal from OEM amp lines in the trunk. I'd say 15-20 ft of power line to be safe, you will definitely have a little extra but better to have too much than not enough. I ran my power line from battery to passenger side trunk and I think it was about 13-14 ft.

You can get ground in the trunk from a bolt.

I have a sub and amp in the trunk and for a long time I left the stock amp disconnected since the door speakers rattle badly--I was using just the dash and rear speakers for highs and really had no mids. I recently installed bass blockers to the high level signal going into the stock amp and now it sounds great. If you do this, buy both Metra Toyota radio (female & male) plugs so you will not need to splice any factory wiring... you will need these to tap into the remote wire anyway.

[aznatama]

anyone have experience with the Pioneer Unit?
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD1...-GM-D1004.html

I'm thinking about running a set of 2 or 3-way 6.5" speakers in my doors off this amp.