Camber Bolt Help Please!

[Khyron686]

So what exactly is the pros/cons of using the 16mm whiteline bolts in the upper hole (for 35$) vs instead using the 14mm SPC bolts (25$) in the lower?

Does one set offer more total -camber than the other? Is one "safer" than the other assuming they are both at max setting?

I have an order including the 14mms from frsspeedfactory but I'm thinking I should switch to the 16mm uppers. But they know more than I do.

[SillySaxon]

Using these adjustable one what would be a good setting on them for stock suspension height?

[Freedom]

Originally Posted by fooddude

Wanted to ask:

How much max neg camber are you guys able to get using only/just the OEM crash camber bolts?? (ie: SU003-02818)

More, or less, or the same, as the Whiteline cam bolts?

More attracted to the OEM... since, it's OEM quality afterall, he he.

I'm also curious about this.

[phongtphan21]

Hey guys ,

I'm a newbie at this, but When i put in the whiteline bolts, I just put them in the lower hole? if so , what is with the camber plates? is that a different way to camber your front? It seem so , i've been reading through the forums and I probably sound like a dumbass but with the bolts, since it goes on the lower hole, do i leave the upper bolts the way it is and just negative the bottom and it'll camber my front?


Lastly , what is better? Camber plates or just bolts? I feel kinda iffy, with bolts . since camber plates seem to hold better then bolts, am i wrong?

[Tor]

I got these 16 mm Whiteline camber bolts (Whiteline sealed bag, but has SPC stamped on them).

Is the square plate in the middle of the picture supposed to be used? It doesn't figure in the illustrations.

The bolts were depicted in black on the reseller website. Is it normal for the Whiteline bolts to come in raw finish like this? Doesn't seem like a very resistant finish.

Third question. Should the bolts be tightened to 125 lb-ft or 83 lb-ft!!!?
(second picture 125 on the plastic bag and 83 on the paper instruction (KCA416).

[strat61caster]

I'm no expert but the fastest way to find the right answer on the internet is to post a wrong one so anyone feel free to correct :P

Originally Posted by phongtphan21

Hey guys ,

I'm a newbie at this, but When i put in the whiteline bolts, I just put them in the lower hole? if so , what is with the camber plates? is that a different way to camber your front? It seem so , i've been reading through the forums and I probably sound like a dumbass but with the bolts, since it goes on the lower hole, do i leave the upper bolts the way it is and just negative the bottom and it'll camber my front?


Lastly , what is better? Camber plates or just bolts? I feel kinda iffy, with bolts . since camber plates seem to hold better then bolts, am i wrong?

I believe there are two sizes that fit for the SPC bolts that have a lobe on them so you can turn it and adjust camber, 16mm for the top hole (when looking at it or pictures of the install you can see that the top hole has a special larger diameter bolt and the strut will have a larger diameter hole) which won't fit in the bottom, there is also a smaller bolt available (14mm) that will be loose in the top and fit well in the bottom. And then the OE crash bolts are undersized bolts that fit in the top hole that are supposed to be loose and you push the wheel hub in and tighten it to get more camber (less precise and secure but are cheap and work with certain rulesets like SCCA classing). Typically camber bolts are anywhere from -0.8 to -1.2 degrees of additional negative camber over stock.

Camber plates can offer more camber on this car, usually adding about -2 degrees or more of camber (or about 0.5 or more positive camber) and are easy to adjust on the fly to dial in your setup. More importantly, for maximum grip the car seems to like more than -3 degrees of camber (I've heard claims of -3.5 from a few different people) which isn't attainable with just one method to my knowledge so most aggressively setup cars will be running both bolts and plates with the exception of coilovers which may have additional camber adjustment or more negative camber built into the struts.

What's better? I don't know, it's situational, just like a Lotus Elise is not better than an 86 for transporting 4 people. If it's a casual car that sees mostly daily driving, tire wear is a concern, the owner does not want to adjust things and keep an eye to exposed camber plates that can get dirty, wear out quicker and begin to make noise after heavy use, the bolts should be hassle free and can be installed and aligned by any shop worth it's salt without breaking the bank and keeping the front camber to <-1.5 degrees should have almost no impact to tire life. I think your fears about the bolts are not unfounded, they absolutely can slip and throw your camber out of whack but I haven't seen anyone post a situation like that around here and mine have been great for the past year of daily use.

IMO if you're going to spend extra money on the camber plates they only become worth the money if you're using them to extract every ounce of grip from the car, you'll probably end up with bolts and/or coilovers anyway.

Or it's for looks then idk do whatever's prettiest.

Originally Posted by Tor

I got these 16 mm Whiteline camber bolts (Whiteline sealed bag, but has SPC stamped on them).

Is the square plate in the middle of the picture supposed to be used? It doesn't figure in the illustrations.

The bolts were depicted in black on the reseller website. Is it normal for the Whiteline bolts to come in raw finish like this? Doesn't seem like a very resistant finish.

Third question. Should the bolts be tightened to 125 lb-ft or 83 lb-ft!!!?
(second picture 125 on the plastic bag and 83 on the paper instruction (KCA416).

I didn't use the square plate, had no issues for the past year, might be required for another car/strut type, never bothered to investigate.
Mine were also raw as are most that I've seen, no significant corrosion but my climate is very mild so ymmv. There might be some sort of protection you can spray on but that won't save the exposed threads so idk.
I don't remember at all what I set them to but I doubt 125 would be an issue, mine felt pretty beefy (I believe 16mm variant as well, top hole only fitment). Could always try 83 see how confident you feel in the tightness and then slowly build up to 125.

Or check the shop manual and copy what it says:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374

[tyler_win_photo]

Originally Posted by Tor

I got these 16 mm Whiteline camber bolts (Whiteline sealed bag, but has SPC stamped on them).

Is the square plate in the middle of the picture supposed to be used? It doesn't figure in the illustrations.

The bolts were depicted in black on the reseller website. Is it normal for the Whiteline bolts to come in raw finish like this? Doesn't seem like a very resistant finish.

Third question. Should the bolts be tightened to 125 lb-ft or 83 lb-ft!!!?
(second picture 125 on the plastic bag and 83 on the paper instruction (KCA416).

When I installed mine I skipped the square piece. It might be a newer version. When I bought mine two years ago it came in black - regardless it was quite rusted after a year. I initially tried 83, but was getting sound noise while turning at slow speeds. Retorqued it to 125 and the noise went away.

[Tor]

Thanks for the replies. I'll skip the square piece and torque it to 125 lb-ft.

[VVT4ME]

So, just to clarify because the thread jumped around a bit.... if I am to use the pair of oem crash bolts, they go in the upper, NOT lower hole on the strut, correct?

[churchx]

Lower hole 14mm, upper 16mm. Obviously to gain some play for adjustment by only using oem bolts, one needs to relocate oem "camber" bolt (normal bolt of 14mm size) from smaller lower hole to larger upper one.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by VVT4ME

So, just to clarify because the thread jumped around a bit.... if I am to use the pair of oem crash bolts, they go in the upper, NOT lower hole on the strut, correct?

Yes.

If you put them in the lower hole you will not see any change to your alignment as they are the exact same bolt.

The upper hole is a larger size, putting a smaller bolt in it allows for camber adjustment.

[CatDaddysBBQ]

Upper.

[Juvenile]

I'm looking at getting these and from what I'm reading, SPC seem to make them for everyone

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251742184...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[Gforce]

Whiteline claim their washer lock tab prevents the crash bolts from turning once torqued up. That would be worth the $10.

The size of the bolt is related to its strength. The bolts have an eccentric cam on the bolt body. The bolt itself needs to be strong enough to resist bending induced by the eccentric.