Lightweight pulley wow

[mach330]

Originally Posted by Silverdub

Took me 10 minutes to install. Release belt tension with a 14mm wrench on the tensionner. Make sure you have a long and strong breaker bar put the car in 6th gear with the handbrake on and thats it. The crank bolt is on reallytight so dont be shy!

Sorry for the newbie question. Can u explain this in detail?

[kendalldwhite]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4w3tJGozCM"]GrimmSpeed Subaru Lightweight Crank Pulley Install Video - YouTube[/ame]

Originally Posted by mach330

Sorry for the newbie question. Can u explain this in detail?

[Nezz]

Hm. On second thoughts I don't think my pulley's getting changed-- those drill marks are balance marks...

[Nezz]

Originally Posted by mach330

Sorry for the newbie question. Can u explain this in detail?

A long and strong breaker bar, is a long and strong breaker bar. Google the tool, it's important to have a good one if you work on cars. I've got a few of varying lengths and some different angles too.

If you have the car on the ground, in sixth gear, with the handbrake on tight, that will help to add resistance against the crank from the drivetrain at the -back- of the crank, meaning you can pop the nut more easily. If you have an AT, disregard this step. You're going to have to use a rattlegun (pneumatic wrench), and hope for the best.

[D1cker]

Originally Posted by Nezz

Hm. On second thoughts I don't think my pulley's getting changed-- those drill marks are balance marks...

OP can you check to see if there is any rubber in that OEM pulley? If it's all steel them it's not a balancer or damper and is totally fine to replace.

[JP]

you can see the rubber vibration dampener in the stock pulley, it's the ring between the rib section and the inner.

If you do change the crank pulley, ensure you torque the crank pulley bolt correctly. If the bolt isn't torqued correctly it can easily flog out the snout of the crank.

[Silverdub]

I bought it because someone mentionned the original pulley wasnt a damper. I just looked at it and i confirm that it is. I know of a couple of people that have been running those for years without any issues. We will see. Any engineer can tell us about the downsides?

[Silverdub]

Pic of original pulley and pen pointing at the rubber damper.

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Nezz

Hm. On second thoughts I don't think my pulley's getting changed-- those drill marks are balance marks...

I got the perrin pulley and installed it, but still debating if keeping it because of this....

[Laika]

Will a Perrin pulley improve how quickly the car revs up out of gear for double clutching?

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by Silverdub

Any engineer can tell us about the downsides?

The downside is the potential for vibrations in your motor internals, especially at high RPM.

[empower-auto]

someone chime in on long term risks in running this?

I know for most engines it's a horrible idea. I replaced the stock pulley on my 1JZGTE with a properly balanced Fluidampr unit

[Silverdub]

Im thinking of getting it balanced at a machine shop

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by empower-auto

someone chime in on long term risks in running this?

I know for most engines it's a horrible idea. I replaced the stock pulley on my 1JZGTE with a properly balanced Fluidampr unit

I read countless of threads, and people swear by this mod. Lots and lots of positive reviews, not really anyone reporting any issues with a regular LW pulley. People have issues with Underdriven pulleys but this Perrin Pulley is not underdriven. NOW I am a bit concerned, as pointed out by @Nezz, that the stock pulley is balanced.

My question to anyone with way more knowledge than me is: are those balance marks of just the pulley being balanced, or are those marks of the pulley being balanced together with the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel?