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03-31-2018, 07:36 PM | #15 | |
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03-31-2018, 11:11 PM | #16 | |
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04-01-2018, 12:22 AM | #17 |
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Imho relocated oem vs 16mm camberbolt (which still is actually thinner bolt just with extra lobe) is of somewhat same "risk" of reduced sheering/torquing strength. If one minds increased risks that much, then just use one set of camberbolts (which will limit max dialable neg. camber to -1.5) with other bolt left stock. If more is needed, then one needs another camberbolt set or camberplates (which cost much more).
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04-01-2018, 07:22 AM | #18 | |
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But candidly I'm surprised more people aren't using the two camber solution on the forums. It's a fraction of the cost of camber plates, and I'm getting close to 3 degrees (3.1 after lowered)! |
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04-01-2018, 09:32 AM | #19 |
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It's worth mentioning, the camber bolt solution can cause issues depending on your tire and wheel setup.
I have RCE yellow springs and 17x9 et42, 245/40/17 wheels/tires and camber bolts only allowed about -0.3 degrees before interference with the springs. |
04-01-2018, 02:08 PM | #20 |
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Jamestl: probably due lowering it worked for you. I was limited on stock height to about -2.35 with camberbolts in both holes (KCA416+SPC 81305). Those that are set on track oriented alignment need -3 or slightly more, and camberbolts alone won't give that. "Normal" people daily driving only don't need that much camber, so usually single camberbolt set is sufficient for them. Most common option for track people are camberplates. I got -3 with two camberbolt sets and powerflex PFF69-801G bushings. There is also option of slotting bolt holes, but it has least trust in my eyes.
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04-01-2018, 02:14 PM | #21 | |
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