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12-27-2018, 11:11 PM | #1 |
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Battery died under warranty - Dealer replaced
An FYI thread. My battery the Panasonic 340 CCA crapped out on me after sitting in one place for 6 days after boosting it twice I called the dealership and asked if they would replace it under warranty (1 year left on my 2017) they said yes but they would use the same battery.
I almost went to Costco but instead decided to take the free option for now. Dealer tested the battery and it failed easily as expected. They replaced it not with the same garbage Panasonic they gave me a Toyota Premium COPBS-8435F (Group 35) with 550 CCA, under warranty. Very positive experience with the dealer and I feel more confident now then that 2 year old Panasonic that struggled to crank so many times. Sent from my SM-G960W using Tapatalk |
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12-28-2018, 12:19 AM | #2 |
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Yeah, I noticed much easier cold crank when I replaced mine with the Deka Intimidator grp 35 bat. I also noticed a significant reduction in the rates of CEL for ignition coil faults (from ~75% to ~5% of red line pulls).
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12-28-2018, 07:08 AM | #3 |
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Replaced mine with a Red Top years ago and it is still going strong!
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12-28-2018, 09:37 AM | #4 |
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You can't buy that panasonics in america anyway, they're only in cars made in japan, toyotas that roll off the line in north america usually have a delphi I think.
Judging from the case, that toyota branded replacement looks like a delphi too (shape of the vent). Kirkland batteries from costco look like they're from exide. |
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12-28-2018, 11:42 AM | #5 |
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My battery failed this year on my 2017 also once it got colder out. Purchased my own instead of getting another from the dealer.
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12-29-2018, 01:05 AM | #6 |
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Cool story bro.
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12-29-2018, 03:29 AM | #7 |
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12-29-2018, 04:13 AM | #8 |
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Simple, either fancy scan tool/tablet or some other type of open flash tablet system.
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12-29-2018, 08:24 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
In fact one of the things I'm curious about is how the revised charging system on the '17 deals with the cold canadian winter and my short drive cycle and rather intensive electrical loads: I've got the auto lights set so that they turn on at the slightest dark, and front and rear defrost pretty much always going. So far so good. |
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12-29-2018, 04:33 PM | #10 |
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Simple, just do red line pulls a bunch of times. Each time a CEL comes up just wipe it off with a OBD2 reader. I did this a bunch of times and I was living with the old battery that wasn't pushing enough power to overcome the resistance that built up in the old heated ignition coil system.
Stock battery pretty much always gave me a CEL each time I did a red line pull. Replacing the battery I rarely (like 1-2x) got it after some ~10+ pulls and still I'm not getting CEL. After 3 years of having replaced that stock battery.
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12-30-2018, 12:36 AM | #11 |
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Ok got it. In general, is it possible a new battery to provide a better spark? I am mentioning it, because I noticed the car to be livelier after a battery change.
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12-30-2018, 12:53 AM | #12 |
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Wow the irony. Mine died this morning right before work after 1 1/2 years. I ended up buying a battery at Autozone. I'm debating whether to get it replaced under warranty or not
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12-30-2018, 11:29 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
I did run into the ignition coil CEL issue a year ago. Never thought the battery might be the culprit, hmm. I changed two of the coils though so I guess I'll never know. |
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12-30-2018, 11:58 AM | #14 |
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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Funny, some people have great luck with them, some dont. I'm in sunny Nor Cal and mine cranks much slower after about 5 days of no driving, and the trunk light on for 8 hours will take it too low to crank. Never liked it. Going to replace with an Interstate.
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