Spec Twin?

[Imp]

I don't think so, I was looking at them too, but right on the page (if at rock auto), says "Improves Upon OE Design". That's not really "OEM Equivalent". Also, it uses bearings instead of rubber.... "powdered-metal bearings that can withstand much greater loads without deforming like plastic bearings do". So, also not OEM equiv.


Of course, it's just a swaybar link. IDGAF. (But I won't be using them).

--kC

[Twinz]

Originally Posted by Imp

I don't think so, I was looking at them too, but right on the page (if at rock auto), says "Improves Upon OE Design". That's not really "OEM Equivalent".


--kC

I think you are talking about the one with the grease fitting. (K750668)

The one without the grease fitting (K750486) seems legit as a stock replacement.

[TMF]

Originally Posted by Twinz

I think you are talking about the one with the grease fitting. (K750668)

The one without the grease fitting (K750486) seems legit as a stock replacement.

The Moog K750486 also appears to have a grease fitting, whereas the Ultra-Power uses the same part number (K750486), but you can't see from the pic if it also has a grease fitting. These are both the rear end link.

The K750668 appears to be the front end link, which also has a grease fitting.

It'd be nice to have the grease fitting, but it sounds like these might not be an "OE Replacement".

[Twinz]

Originally Posted by TMF

The Moog K750486 also appears to have a grease fitting, whereas the Ultra-Power uses the same part number (K750486), but you can't see from the pic if it also has a grease fitting. These are both the rear end link.

The K750668 appears to be the front end link, which also has a grease fitting.

It'd be nice to have the grease fitting, but it sounds like these might not be an "OE Replacement".

I have one front and one rear endlink that I got from rockauto that do not have grease fittings.(spares) I will check the part numbers when I get home, but I think they are the cheap "economy" ones at the top of the endlinks page there.

[steverife]

I see the fitting now. I suggested Moog because you can get those anywhere. I haven't identified a relationship between what I order from Rock Auto and what I receive.

[chkltcow]

Originally Posted by Imp

Kinda rustly already... ok VERY rusty.

If it makes you feel any better (it shouldn't), I bought my car new in 2014 and it has lived its entire life in the south..... and the endlinks look like total garbage. I'm not sure what kind of steel they made them out of, but.... it's bad. They're rusted to shit and if it weren't for the fact that the nuts keep backing themselves off, I'd be worried that they'd get stuck.

[Lex_K]

OEM endlinks are not that expensive. Rears can be found online for $40 for the pair. Fronts are even cheaper. Taking the seized ones off is not a huge deal either. Clean, make sure there is load on the bar and use an impact gun. With no load, use a vise grip on the inside and an impact gun on the nut. No need for allen ever. And yes mine were all "seized" and I replaced them all. Go back to bitching about something else.

[chkltcow]

Yes.... get back to bitching about which is worse... the Falken tires or the Falken decals....

[Lex_K]

Originally Posted by chkltcow

Yes.... get back to bitching about which is worse... the Falken tires or the Falken decals....

Tires are worse. That is a fact. Hardly qualifies as bitching. Complaining about not being able to take off 6 nuts and suggesting aftermarket endlinks need to be considered is entirely different. There are no issues with stock endlinks. If you don't have the skills or the tools to remove them, don't post about it, pay someone to do it.

[steverife]

Lex K must be the engineer that designed the Subie endlinks or something...

[Imp]

Originally Posted by Lex_K

Taking the seized ones off is not a huge deal either. Clean, make sure there is load on the bar and use an impact gun. With no load, use a vise grip on the inside and an impact gun on the nut. No need for allen ever. And yes mine were all "seized" and I replaced them all. Go back to bitching about something else.

"Just use an impact gun" he says. My 18v Ryobi wouldn't. It just spun. That's kinda why you need an allen. And then, once it's off, how do you get it back on without it spinning? Kinda like, you know, I don't have extra endlinks just hanging around. Vice grip, spun in that too. Couldn't get a big grip on it.

Must be nice to have air tools if that's the impact you're using.

--kC

[M0nk3y]

I think Lex is just doing logical thinking.

Introduce endlinks and it goes down a rabbit hole, IMO.

This is no different than say people that ran Hoosiers on HS Minis and tore through them in 15-20 runs. They simply just dealt with it.

[Lex_K]

Originally Posted by Imp

"Just use an impact gun" he says. My 18v Ryobi wouldn't. It just spun. That's kinda why you need an allen. And then, once it's off, how do you get it back on without it spinning? Kinda like, you know, I don't have extra endlinks just hanging around. Vice grip, spun in that too. Couldn't get a big grip on it.

Must be nice to have air tools if that's the impact you're using.


--kC

I use 20V Rockwell. I went through the same process you did on one side with allen. Mostly because the car didn't have a load on it. Load it up, and it comes right off. Use vise grips for extra resistance. Zep45 also won't hurt. I have a Rhode Island car, so they were as bad as could be.

[Lex_K]

Originally Posted by steverife

Lex K must be the engineer that designed the Subie endlinks or something...

Because it takes an engineer to take them off and put them back on, albeit, at a little angle in the rear... So much concern, yet no reported cases of failure and the kit has been on the market for years.