Dyno Compilation - dyno testing results and recommendations

[Illusive]

Originally Posted by sierra

It's a massive difference between your results and the results that Nameless posted here with a peak 12hp gain and that's with the original overpipe. Your test apparently had a different axleback, not the Nameless one but they claimed most of the gains from the downpipe with the HF cat.
Is that difference then due to incorrect dyno operation, meaning that the actual gains are negligible?
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10011

I can not say for certain. The exhaust combo the customer had did produce a 10-11 hp gain at 7500 rpm over our stock tuned frs.

We have no access to the test procedures the parts companies, nameless and or SRT used for their testing.

We are only trying to provide our test data and want the consumers to draw their own conclusions.

We would be happy to perform unbiased 3rd party testing on a full nameless exhaust free of charge if they would be willing to send us one for testing, as we mentioned in the footnotes on the original post.

[Illusive]

Originally Posted by SkAsphalt

I guess intake and exhaust are really just there for sound and look

Sigh.

At least my car looks better than stock now and sounds better....

We may have another customer lined up for a custom tune with an intake in the next few weeks.

I am looking forward to seeing for my self what gains can be expected with an aftermarket intake.

[Craig]

Thanks a lot for this post, it can be hard to accept the gains some companies post on here and it's great to see a shop step up as the unbiased onlooker.

Kudos to you! Only wish you were closer!!

[FR-S Matt]

Yeah, getting unbiased advice is pretty difficult. I'm glad something like this came along. I can't wait to get my car dyno'd and tuned now.

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by mad_sb

Quick question with the "Tuned FRS with a nameless catted overpipe, midpipe with resonator, and SRT axle back" did you do a retune from "scratch" with this car or was this a tuned car that latter added the exhaust parts?

Yes - All of our tunes are scratch tunes. We do have some tools Jason developed when we tuned our stock FRS to make tuning a new vehicle more efficient, but we still explore the full range of VVTi function on every car that hits our dyno. That is why we always ask for the vehicle to stay for days, not hours.

[mad_sb]

Originally Posted by Boosted2.0

Yes - All of our tunes are scratch tunes. We do have some tools Jason developed when we tuned our stock FRS to make tuning a new vehicle more efficient, but we still explore the full range of VVTi function on every car that hits our dyno. That is why we always ask for the vehicle to stay for days, not hours.

Right on. I totally understand starting from one of your custom base maps, I used to do that all the time on the dyno, saves you and the customer time without hurting the final product in the least since you optimize each tune for that particular vehicle on the dyno.

[Captain Insano]

Great thread and info OP! I look forward to seeing more unbiased test results.

[Someguyk]

Great Info! Well compiled!

[Obja]

So all i have to do is unplug my battery for 5 minutes, then let my car idle for 1 minute...?

[FR-S Matt]

I had my battery unplugged for hours, and I let my car idle for 15 minutes.... probably overkill.

[Illusive]

Originally Posted by Obja

So all i have to do is unplug my battery for 5 minutes, then let my car idle for 1 minute...?

To reset your ECU yes, that is what we recommend.

[Anorexic 86]

This thread should be a sticky!

[pdreams]

I notice on my logs that the throttle position is always at 80% even though the pedal is already all the way to the floor.

Is that normal for ECUTEK logging?

Cheers

[Boosted2.0]

Originally Posted by pdreams

I notice on my logs that the throttle position is always at 80% even though the pedal is already all the way to the floor.

Is that normal for ECUTEK logging?

Cheers

Thats normal for stock ECU and stock scan tool as well. There are two Throttle Position sensors and Two Accelerator Pedal Position sensors, and they are intentionally offset from eachother. The lower of the two will never show 100%. The offset exists so the ECU can diagnose an internal short in the sensor if one occurs.