Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[B T]

It wasn't ever floored. I was sitting on cruise contol at about 3200 when it went. I was at a relatively low speed and it pre-ignited bending the rod and chaos ensuing, lol. I realize that's not exactly what the article stated, but the name definitely fits!

[nostromo]

This is interesting. I knew of this LSPI problem when I owned a Fiesta St and it also plagued the Mini's. So are we just now connecting the dots and seeing this as a problem? I didn't see it with my turbo'd 13 but should I be cautious with my 19?

[clayrush]

Originally Posted by B T

It wasn't ever floored. I was sitting on cruise contol at about 3200 when it went. I was at a relatively low speed and it pre-ignited bending the rod and chaos ensuing, lol. I realize that's not exactly what the article stated, but the name definitely fits!

That's about the spot where my wife's motor blew as well. Of course it could have been anything or ongoing damage. It just struck me ass odd that it went at a little over 3000 RPM in chill commute driving after a gear change. No odd sound or other indication of a problem.

[toast]

@clayrush, @B T - did you guys ever do used oil analysis?

[CallmeDave]

Originally Posted by DeliciousTuning

We are now implementing LSPI adjustments in all our tunes since November 2019, which includes version 28.00 and higher.

A short education post on what we have been spending a LOT of time on (within our tunes) over the better part of the last year in order to remove LSPI issues. We worked with other professional tuners, motor oil companies, and even vehicle manufacturers to understand what the issues are and how to best mitigate this issue while maintaining power and response even on 91 octane fuels.

You may ask what is LSPI. Low Speed Pre-Ignition (LSPI)

This trait is inherent on high compression, forced induction, direct injected engines, such as the BRZ (with forced induction) and 2015+ WRX, that can cause the combustion to pre-ignite at low RPM's and high loads.

Here is a good article on what the issues are and what we are trying address in tune, along with other physical changes.

https://www.motor.com/magazine-summa...-pre-ignition/

We have found a few key items within the tune to mitigate this issue while trying to offering safety, drivability and power for daily commuters.

Some other things to watch are the oil that you are using in your engine. Cars that are prone to LSPI, please make sure you are using an oil that is SN PLUS rated.

Make sure to speak to your tuner about LSPI and how to best mitigate these issues through the type of oil you use, adjustments within the tune and even the brand of fuel you use.

Regards,
William Knose

Pushing The Boundaries Since 1999

Ahhhh my final tune from you guys was in August last year.....
Am I safe with your tune and or can I get this new tune with this update?
Thanks

[devtec]

Hi all,

Was wondering, with the infamous unreliability of Edelbrock's bypass valve actuator (I'm on my 4th or 5th!!), would there be any reason to not just remove the vacuum line leading to the actuator and cap off the vacuum port at the back of the supercharger (leaving the bypass valve in the open position)?

I'd possibly be willing to accept the lower fuel economy of deactivating the actuator and having boost at all times, if it meant increased reliability and not having to deal with vacuum leaks/replacement of the actuator so often.

Is there anything in the tune or otherwise that would be incompatible with this?

TIA

[toast]

You'll be making boost even in light throttle. I'm not sure how the tune would deal with that.

Try changing the actuator over to reading only vacuum conditions. Add a tee in the brake booster line and feed that to the actuator. I'm going on over a year in this configuration and it hasn't failed. My first actuator lasted two months before I did this.

[devtec]

Thanks toast very much for all your contributions... I've seen all your posts and actually tried T-ing the vacuum line into the brake booster line, but couldn't quite get it to work.

Any chance you have pics of this setup?

And how is your custom MAP box going?

I'm talking to Bill from Delicious later today, so will ask him about any detriments to making boost at all times (other than fuel economy).

[brandonblt2]

Not sure if this was already asked but I live in NJ and passed a smog test with just a catted down pipe, uncatted UEL headers, and OFT Stage 2 tune. Would I still pass smog testing with a edelbrock supercharger and smog tune from edelbrock?


Also, is it fine to run Tomei UEL headers with the stock smog tune? Or will have drive ability issues and a rough idle on the standard smog tune?

[Decep]

the edelbrock tune is for use with stock headers.. i would think if you were able to pass as you did, you should be able to pass with an edelbrock and custom tune.

Here it'd be an auto fail due to the catless headers

[toast]

Originally Posted by devtec

Thanks toast very much for all your contributions... I've seen all your posts and actually tried T-ing the vacuum line into the brake booster line, but couldn't quite get it to work.

Any chance you have pics of this setup?

And how is your custom MAP box going?

I'm talking to Bill from Delicious later today, so will ask him about any detriments to making boost at all times (other than fuel economy).

I'll try and take a pic but I think my tee is hidden by the manifold runners. Pretty sure I got a tee with 3/8" on the straight section and a 5/16" on the split. I just pulled off the booster line from the nose of the SC, measured about 4" and made a cut. Installed T and then ran bypass valve to the split. Probably not necessary but I clamped all the lines with spring clamps.

The MAP box is a smashing success. Zach asked for a log after I showed him what I had done and he said fueling under load is so much smoother and on point. Car feels a lot better as well. I'm currently making another one now that my TIG welding is getting better and I know where I want to mount it.

[clayrush]

Originally Posted by toast

@clayrush, @B T - did you guys ever do used oil analysis?

not yet. got some saved in a jug. I have been holding off doing anything more because all my money was bee tied up sellin and then buying a new house.

now comes the decision on what to do next. built motor time next i guess.

[Kiske]

Originally Posted by devtec

Hi all,

Was wondering, with the infamous unreliability of Edelbrock's bypass valve actuator (I'm on my 4th or 5th!!), would there be any reason to not just remove the vacuum line leading to the actuator and cap off the vacuum port at the back of the supercharger (leaving the bypass valve in the open position)?

I'd possibly be willing to accept the lower fuel economy of deactivating the actuator and having boost at all times, if it meant increased reliability and not having to deal with vacuum leaks/replacement of the actuator so often.

Is there anything in the tune or otherwise that would be incompatible with this?

TIA

There is one work around I do know of assuming you are running a speed density tune. It has been done on other platforms in which owners got fed up with replacing parts...

You can actually replace the bypass with a Blow off Valve. You will need to get one with a very weak spring to ensure the valve is closed in vacuum. Tial makes a 3 to 4psi spring set for their 50mm BOV for this purpose. I do not know of anyone running the 1320 (in the 86 or Jeep) doing this as the replacement part is under $100. It is mostly people running blowers with ATI bypass valves which run $450+.

So with that being said, some fabrication (block off place/mounting,) testing (ensuring the BOV opens at idle and also holds boost,) and tuning would be involved.

[Decep]

Speaking of bypass valves, im at about 5k miles since install and starting to have weird idle issues directly after cold starts. After letting the cold start idle stabilize after 30 seconds, Idle drops to 500, shoots back up to 2000 and then either goes back to 500 then normalizes or it will stall. Stalled like 3 times at a light leaving work. No check engine light but ST fuel trim was like -20%. No error codes. Tried blowing into the rubber hose going to the bypass valve and felt resistance, though i havent tried that pinch test yet.