Combating the heat

[toekneehair]

Originally Posted by Element Tuning

I never had any issues on the street or on the dyno in terms of operating temps. Max power 400whp (baseline 153 whp).

Element Tuning Hydra EMS
FA20Club 60T turbo kit (header wrap and turbo cover)
Full Blown Radiator (oem fans and shroud)
90% water and water wetter
AC condenser in place
E85

Ok so when I was NA and racing even with oem radiator I never had issues even in 90+ f. In boosted trim we did have problems but they may have been mostly due to a pin hole leak in the radiator. When I first raced my boosted setup at NJMP at around 350whp I can say I had real issues but it did get warm but nothing dangerous. At the next two races we overheated into the red on every session and that's when we got desperate.



Most of it's common sense and the grill opening is very smal almost every inch covered by the FMIC, and the engine bay pretty sealed up. We also have an extended diffuser. We ditched the skid plate which gave us more exit volume. We cut a hole in the hood and added a gurney. We also cut holes in the bumper skin above the bumper beam (they needed to be bigger but that's what we had at the track). We also pulled the rubber seal at the wiper tray. All of this helped but one thing hurt us at one point and that was a cut through fendet liner. Do not underestimate how much pressure that will pump into your engine bay. Fix it or make new liners for bigger wheels etc.

In the end we found a pinhole leak in the radiator that only surfaced under racing conditions. At the track fix was "stop leak" and it appeared to have settled engine temp but then boom and she caught on fire as most know.

From my experience with cooling issues like this in general, the rad volume is just too little for 400+hp under racing conditions and their is too little entry volume of airflow. To improve flow you have to dump pressure out of the hood. Get more air to the radiator and you may have to cut bumper vents (you can do it nicer than I did). For fans its hard to beat the oem and shrouding for street and I bet for many your slim fans are worse (seen it many times). To run slim you need a shroud and you need some high dollar, super high cfm units, to do the trick.

Nothing off the shelf will do the trick for what we have planned for our FRS next season.

Thanks,
Phil Grabow

Can the fender liner really cause that much of an issue? I had one of mine pop out after getting caught on a curb then somewhat burned off. so I have a big hole behind my oil cooler right now. I thought that would help air either way so I wasn't to concerned when I found it. how does it create pressure inside the engine bay?

[Element Tuning]

At low speeds no, but at high speed absolutely. The pressure from the rotating tire is massive which is why you see such massive vents on top of the fender and huge exits on the rear of race cars.

[toekneehair]

so where can I get replacement fenders? just dealerships I imagine?

[Element Tuning]

Originally Posted by Dipstik-sportech

E85 runs considerably cooler than pump gas, that's probably why you've never had an issue. I'm going to try a different fan setup and if I can find a decent one a vented hood.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

No problems with pump gas either in NA form. Boosted I was always on e85. The fuel helps but lets not forget I'm WOT for lap after lap.

Don't overlook the obvious and that low splitter reduces under car pressure substantially which helps exit engine bay pressure.

[mike the snake]

Which aftermarket hood do you think would be the best at reducing engine bay temps?

From reading here, one with vents more towards the front?

[Element Tuning]

Which hood, I haven't looked too much at what's available. After we are done building our engine etc. I'll make a decision to either buy something or work with the OEM hood. The vent over the turbocharger would be great for street cars since it will dump turbo/exhaust heat out instantly but at speed it doesn't have to be there unless you are ducting the radiator (hard to do with a turbo kit there).

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

Which aftermarket hood do you think would be the best at reducing engine bay temps?

From reading here, one with vents more towards the front?

I've been told that the Seibon VS hood would be most effective since it is properly louvered, originally I thought the TS would be better, but apparently the VS would be most effective.

[Frostyman]

That's what I have been led to believe as well.

[mike the snake]

The VS hood has a proper "trip lip" in front of the vent to cause more suction, and the vent itself is located in front, right over the turbo (on the FB kit), so air should flow up and across the turbo and out=ideal.

There was one or two other hoods that looked like they'd be pretty functional as well.

[Brody602]

Originally Posted by mike the snake

The VS hood has a proper "trip lip" in front of the vent to cause more suction, and the vent itself is located in front, right over the turbo (on the FB kit), so air should flow up and across the turbo and out=ideal.

There was one or two other hoods that looked like they'd be pretty functional as well.

Which other hoods are those?

[mike the snake]

This one http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...ducts_id=28960

and this one http://www.corsportusa.com/store/cat...ducts_id=28970

[canu_50]

Nobody talked about Davies craig electri water pump conversion.. Or at least Evan's cooling coolant.

Davies Craig water pump: http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...s-content.aspx

Evan's cooling solution:http://www.evanscooling.com/

[mike the snake]

OK, which do you think would be best between these two?

http://www.modbargains.com/seibon-ca...od-frs-brz.htm

http://www.modbargains.com/seibon-ca...od-frs-brz.htm

[FullBlown]

The shrouds are done. There will be an option for SPAL 12" fans as well.