DIY - Easy clutch grab adjustment (~10 mins)

[Mchilese]

Did this today. I can't believe how much better it is. This is how it should have come from the factory. The amount of improvement this is over the factory setting almost feels like I fixed a mistake the factory made.

I put mine a decent amount lower than the brake pedal, but everything looks like it clears, and I don't feel any clutch engagement when I let off the pedal. So I'm pretty sure everything is OK.

My wife might actually want to try driving this thing again now that she won't have to do leg presses every time she shifts.

Another benefit of this is that my gear change/clutch is a lot smoother because there's no play in it. My shifts are a lot faster and smoother now.

Thanks so much for putting this up. It's really is a must-do, and it does actually take only about 10 minutes. Best "free" mod anyone can do.

[Byza]

This screw is beneath the clutch pedal and surrounded by a mounting bracket for the pedal on the Australian 86. Took me about two hours, 4 different grips and 5 12mm spanners (I was raiding everyone's tool boxes) before I found a combination that works.

A spanner with a standard size head won't work because after the adjustment the gap you have to fit the spanner will decrease. You need a spanner that is thinner than normal, or buy a cheap one and grind down one side. Winding the nut all the way to the top then using multi-grips on the exposed thread where the nut usually sits is the only way I could turn the screw. Just make sure you protect the tread somehow. The grips I had wore though the soft plastic I used and damaged the tread, causing a lot of the headaches, and back aches I had to endure.

There is also a little white rubber bump-stop you will need to pull out to get access with the spanner. It pulls out easily.

But despite the pain and frustration, this mod is definitely worth it. I'm not sure if it is due to the difference in design or just my imagination but it also seems to have made the pick-up point seem more noticeable. A fortunate result given that the location of the clutch spring in the AU car makes removal/replacement out of the question without a lot more suffering on my part.

[Rezi]

Did this "free"-mod today.
Damn, whole new driving experience for me. Cannot believe i drove on stock height over 2 years.

Did the rod method (not pin-remove method)

Took me about 20minutes. Put it even or about 1mm under the brake pedal.
Free play is given at the top of the clutch (Can press the clutch pedal a bit before i feel resistance). So it disengages properly.
It engages about 1-1,5cm from the floor away.
No grinding. No smell.

Did also the proper test.
Clutch in, first gear -> clunk
Still clutch in, neutral, first gear -> no clunk
Clutch in, wait 3 seconds, first gear -> no clunk

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Rezi

Did this "free"-mod today.
Damn, whole new driving experience for me. Cannot believe i drove on stock height over 2 years.

Did the rod method (not pin-remove method)

Took me about 20minutes. Put it even or about 1mm under the brake pedal.
Free play is given at the top of the clutch (Can press the clutch pedal a bit before i feel resistance). So it disengages properly.
It engages about 1-1,5cm from the floor away.
No grinding. No smell.

Did also the proper test.
Clutch in, first gear -> clunk
Still clutch in, neutral, first gear -> no clunk
Clutch in, wait 3 seconds, first gear -> no clunk

That's too close to the floor. Leave yourself more like 3 cm full disengagement. This allows a hot friction disc to warp a little. It will happen.

[Rezi]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That's too close to the floor. Leave yourself more like 3 cm full disengagement. This allows a hot friction disc to warp a little. It will happen.

So.. i guess to move the clutch pedal bit above the brake pedal? Dunno if it's 1cm, when it starts engaging. From the feeling it is, overall i would say half the travel compared to oem height.

From my video it could look like its around "3cm".

You can hear it when it engages. Really like it how it is now

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7r5g5ozlzb...647_1.mp4?dl=0

Edit: So. It starts first grabbing like in the video. At about 1,5cm~. Fully disengagement is more on the top. Maybe i mis-wrote it.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Rezi

So.. i guess to move the clutch pedal bit above the brake pedal? Dunno if it's 1cm, when it starts engaging. From the feeling it is, overall i would say half the travel compared to oem height.

From my video it could look like its around "3cm".

You can hear it when it engages. Really like it how it is now

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7r5g5ozlzb...647_1.mp4?dl=0

Edit: So. It starts first grabbing like in the video. At about 1,5cm~. Fully disengagement is more on the top. Maybe i mis-wrote it.

That looks about right. Just be damn sure that you get complete disengagement in all conditions. Pay close attention to it and look for any dragging, difficulty engaging from neutral, or downshifting.

edit: ok, I see your image now. I still feel 15mm to your first grabbing point is too low. It makes the timing between your shift hand and clutch foot even more critical. You'll understand the first time you accidentally "pop" out of gear or miss a shift.

But we've had this discussion so you can always adjust if you feel the need.

[Rezi]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

That looks about right. Just be damn sure that you get complete disengagement in all conditions. Pay close attention to it and look for any dragging, difficulty engaging from neutral, or downshifting.

edit: ok, I see your image now. I still feel 15mm to your first grabbing point is too low. It makes the timing between your shift hand and clutch foot even more critical. You'll understand the first time you accidentally "pop" out of gear or miss a shift.

But we've had this discussion so you can always adjust if you feel the need.

Hmm, thats a good argument. But to be honest, i feel much safer with it now compared to oem. Downshift is much smoother. I know your point, risk of mis-shift etc is higher. Gears are engaging super fine.

But overall i would say, no "longterm" damage to the clutch/friction disk etc?

Edit: Nvm. I just re-adjusted it. Clutch pedal is now 3-4mm higher than the brake pedal. Grab-point is now a tad away from the floor.
Stills feels good, but not so super aggresive anymore.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Rezi

Hmm, thats a good argument. But to be honest, i feel much safer with it now compared to oem. Downshift is much smoother. I know your point, risk of mis-shift etc is higher. Gears are engaging super fine.

But overall i would say, no "longterm" damage to the clutch/friction disk etc?

Edit: Nvm. I just re-adjusted it. Clutch pedal is now 3-4mm higher than the brake pedal. Grab-point is now a tad away from the floor.
Stills feels good, but not so super aggresive anymore.

I think we are on the same page. When I first adjusted mine I did the same as you. I noticed the issues quickly; long before doing any damage.

[Rezi]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I think we are on the same page. When I first adjusted mine I did the same as you. I noticed the issues quickly; long before doing any damage.

Haha yeah. Less is more. Even 1mm higher or lower makes a big difference in my mind. Adjusting is now pretty fast. Maybe i play a bit more later but now its good for me.

Dont know how to describe it. Changing gears is now like a automatic, its so fast without any lag. GF asked me if i switched for an automatic

I also checked for the reservoir method. Pushing the "rod" on the slave cylinder on top of the transmission. If i push it (needs some force) the fluid level rises. If i release it, it drops to "normal" level. Is that okay? Sorry for bothering you with all that questions

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Rezi

Haha yeah. Less is more. Even 1mm higher or lower makes a big difference in my mind. Adjusting is now pretty fast. Maybe i play a bit more later but now its good for me.

Dont know how to describe it. Changing gears is now like a automatic, its so fast without any lag. GF asked me if i switched for an automatic

I also checked for the reservoir method. Pushing the "rod" on the slave cylinder on top of the transmission. If i push it (needs some force) the fluid level rises. If i release it, it drops to "normal" level. Is that okay? Sorry for bothering you with all that questions

No bother at all! You got it. That is just to verify the master cylinder plunger is fully retracted and the clutch can self-adjust.

[btan219]

took me while to figure out where the 12mm nut was since it was kinda hidden, but after that everything went smooth. feels sooooooo much better! thanks

[dhuang]

Just did this after 70k miles. Adjusted the clutch pedal to be slightly higher than the brake.

The clutch action now inspires way more confidence than the past 3 years I've had the car.

[Jasonb]

Just adjusted mine on a 6 day old BRZ real quick. Took it for a 3 minute drive. Initial impression is that it's a whole lot better. All the actual engagement/disengagement was all in the very last bit of pedal travel. Now it feels like the friction zone is right in the center of the pedal movement. Before when I was shifting I was either letting it go to quick and getting some driveling shock or I'd feel conscious of it and end up slipping it too much. Should be better now.

[JBezugs]

Going to be tackling this tonight with my 2017 BRZ. After a couple of years and many people who have done the adjustment, what's the consensus on the best spot to place the clutch pedal?

From what I've read contrary to the original post, a few mm above the brake pedal is best?