Average Clutch Life?

[Teseo]

If i lift the clutch suddenly, car's jerk and make strange noises

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by humfrz

That's true.

However, if the clutch was really bad, and you were in 1st gear, the engine may think it has a chance at moving the car ..... and keeps trying ..... thus wearing the clutch excessively.

If it were in 6th gear, the engine would give up right away and the clutch still may be bad.

Hell, I really don't know why 2nd gear ...... that's just what my grandfather taught me ......


humfrz

You nailed it with your description. Well other that the engine thinking part (Hum...it can't think).

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

You nailed it with your description. Well other that the engine thinking part (Hum...it can't think).

Thanks!

The engine can't "think" .. ??

Well, sometimes, I wonder ...... with all those ECU, BCM, ABS, ESC and PCM things working .......


humfrz

[FirestormFlex]

I learned how to drive on a manual transmission when I was a teenager (I'm 35) and I've owned 5 manual transmission cars, 3 of which were at 200K+ miles when I got rid of them. I have never completely worn out and replaced an OEM clutch on any of those vehicles. I see these posts about leaving the car in neutral at stoplights - I've held in the clutch at almost every stoplight in just about every vehicle I've every owned with zero issues.

Now, for the first time I switched to an aftermarked ACT clutch in my FR-S since I'm going forced induction soon. Hopefully I'll continue having good luck.

[smg1138]

The clutch on this car isn't a problem, but the throwout bearing is. It's such a PITA to replace though, you might as well just replace the entire clutch while you're at it. Sorry, I'm still salty about Toyota refusing to fix my failing TOB under warranty and then getting stranded a few days later. For what it's worth though, my original clutch still looked nearly new after almost 60k miles when I took it out.

[NyC Zn6]

Originally Posted by smg1138

The clutch on this car isn't a problem, but the throwout bearing is. It's such a PITA to replace though, you might as well just replace the entire clutch while you're at it. Sorry, I'm still salty about Toyota refusing to fix my failing TOB under warranty and then getting stranded a few days later. For what it's worth though, my original clutch still looked nearly new after almost 60k miles when I took it out.

i would recommend getting the Velox billet clutch fork ( http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/velo...l#.WUF9gGjyuUk) as well if you are changing out the clutch and bearing.

[paiceyfan]

Originally Posted by FirestormFlex

I learned how to drive on a manual transmission when I was a teenager (I'm 35) and I've owned 5 manual transmission cars, 3 of which were at 200K+ miles when I got rid of them. I have never completely worn out and replaced an OEM clutch on any of those vehicles. I see these posts about leaving the car in neutral at stoplights - I've held in the clutch at almost every stoplight in just about every vehicle I've every owned with zero issues.

Now, for the first time I switched to an aftermarked ACT clutch in my FR-S since I'm going forced induction soon. Hopefully I'll continue having good luck.

Ditto...been driving manual for 31 years and have never had to replace a clutch...always holding clutch in at red lights and using engine braking every chance I get. Only replaced brake pads once as they never get used

[ST185RC]

Originally Posted by Mister

Typically when I am stopped on level ground I am not holding the brake anyway, the car will stay right where it is because the clutch is in.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That is horrible practice and habit. If you get rear ended into oncoming traffic (making a left for example and your wheels are already turned) or get tboned at an intersection due to someone rear ending you, you are SOL, my friend. It might not be the car directly behind you that rear ends you, it could be the one before it. Finally, your brake lights won't be on and the driver behind you might think you are going. why not minimize the amount of confusion and potential damage that can happen to your vehicle relying purely on reaction time?

This is something that would get you automatically failed in a road test.

[alan.chalkley]

Originally Posted by Mister

This is a terrible idea. If you need to suddenly move/get out of the way of something you will be much slower to react if you first have to put it into gear. In emergency maneuvers fractions of a second count.
I'd rather be ready to move then save what will probably be only a couple thousand miles of it's life.

Most cars now automatically stop engine and have to automatically restart to move away at traffic lights (saving fuel and killing starter motors).
Even though my brz is in neutral and i have to select 1st , i can still move off quicker than all the auto stop/start eco cars.

[G_Rossney]

My car has seen a few track days. I heel/toe every day, but I'm a little hard on the daily. I don't keep my clutch in at stops. I have found that resting your foot on the clutch does engage the clutch slightly (causes some minor wear i'm sure).

I got 68,270 out of the clutch. $1500 to replace through dealer. I need the car so I couldn't do it on my own and save about $1000 on labor. FML

[DandoX]

Originally Posted by smg1138

The clutch on this car isn't a problem, but the throwout bearing is. It's such a PITA to replace though, you might as well just replace the entire clutch while you're at it. Sorry, I'm still salty about Toyota refusing to fix my failing TOB under warranty and then getting stranded a few days later. For what it's worth though, my original clutch still looked nearly new after almost 60k miles when I took it out.

This^

Your TOB will wear out before the clutch does most likely and since the labor for that can be sort of costly might as well drop $220-$250 for a brand new clutch.

I had my TOB replaced around 70kish my clutch still had some life left and likely would have lasted me a while longer. But after that new clutch was installed I forgot how buttery and smooth shifting is. Don't sweat it and drive the car how you want, when it's time the TOB will make noise to tell you it's time for a new one and have a new clutch kit installed at the same time.

Side note my flywheel was still like new so that wasn't replaced.

[Decep]

While on the subject, i usually just let the clutch out in reverse to, well, reverse, instead of adding any gas. basically moving at idle like you would in an auto... am i causing a lot more wear on the clutch?

[DandoX]

Originally Posted by Decep

While on the subject, i usually just let the clutch out in reverse to, well, reverse, instead of adding any gas. basically moving at idle like you would in an auto... am i causing a lot more wear on the clutch?

This thread should answer that: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121874

[BaBaFlyingSheep]

I'm pretty surprised of how much clutch life I have left.

I drive pretty spiritedly and I remember after my break-in period I was chirping tires every day. I've never launched my car, but I did learn stick shift and heel-toe in this car.

Smelled that burning clutch smell plenty of times. I read somewhere that out of the either or (assuming you can't drive perfectly): dropping the clutch or slipping, dropping probably has less wear.

Here's some pics of comparing new vs old clutch. My car has 82k miles on it. I guess I would've been the type where the clutch would've lasted the life of the vehicle. Keep in mind on my old clutch I didn't clean off the rivets to get a super accurate reading, and I was using my left-hand and taking pics with my right. Take these measurements as reference. I measured 3 spots of each side. Measured from top of rivets to clutch face on all 6 measurements.

Overall though, the hub-side and flywheel side have different thicknesses:
New FW-side: 1.65 mm (avg)
New Hub-side: 1.85 mm (avg)

Old FW-side: 1.4 mm (avg)
Old Hub:side: 1.68 mm (avg)

I noticed more inconsistently on the old clutch, but again, I didn't clean off the rivets.

So ~0.15 mm or ~9% of the clutch life in 82k miles, guess my clutch should last 800k miles

Of course TOB loses it's lube at 30k miles though.... That technical service bulletin should've been a recall...