Less than satisfied with Competition Clutch. (Lockout issue/hard shifting)

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by VeloxEric

This is a clutch fork issue in my opinion.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...104963&page=11

Specifically this post: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=154

We've been running the SB8-XTSS (lightweight flywheel) for 6k miles now at near 400whp without any lockout issues. Car shifts great actually. But we use our stronger clutch fork. The OEM unit is known to be weak with stronger than OEM pressure plates.

Thanks,
Eric

Which is why I ordered your clutch fork and pivot a month ago. Hoping this solves the issue!

[BoostedWrbBrz]

I've since gotten my money back and drove the car to and from Florida with the ACT clutch with ZERO issues. 4k+ miles of happy driving

[D-VO]

I've got the comp clutch as well and I'm also having this problem. Weird thing is if I hold the clutch pedal down for 4 -5 seconds during a stop and it shifts fine. If there were an issue with the slave or master cylinders it should get worse when holding the pedal down. I think

[empower-auto]

For posterity -- there's so many GOOD clutches for these cars that there's no need to bother with companies like Comp, Spec, Southbin etc

I'm using an ORC 400 and it's been amazing since day 1. Dead quiet, smooth, and it will hold more power than I will ever make.

[celek]

As Eric stated could be a clutch fork issue.
I also think that inconsistency on disc thickness will vary from one manufacture to the next.
Lock out also commonly happens with incorrect adjustments on clutches after install. Pushing the pedal down and the difference from OE pressure plate and disc can vary to another manufacture. If you are pressing the pedal down and the clutch is not fully disengaging the friction surface is still spinning resulting in not being able to transition the collar into the synchros of the next gear
Like @D-VO said

[D-VO]

Originally Posted by celek

As Eric stated could be a clutch fork issue.
I also think that inconsistency on disc thickness will vary from one manufacture to the next.
Lock out also commonly happens with incorrect adjustments on clutches after install. Pushing the pedal down and the difference from OE pressure plate and disc can vary to another manufacture. If you are pressing the pedal down and the clutch is not fully disengaging the friction surface is still spinning resulting in not being able to transition the collar into the synchros of the next gear
Like @D-VO said

I have the Velox fork on mine, and I've also incrementally adjusted the clutch pedal 1/4 turns from the floor to the roof all with the same return; lock out from a stationary position only after driving for a while. I would think if it were an adjustment issue, lockout would be an issue while driving as well no?

[VerusEric]

Originally Posted by D-VO

I have the Velox fork on mine, and I've also incrementally adjusted the clutch pedal 1/4 turns from the floor to the roof all with the same return; lock out from a stationary position only after driving for a while. I would think if it were an adjustment issue, lockout would be an issue while driving as well no?

Not necessarily, as the RPM drop from the previous gear and the car is rolling, gear selection could become easier. This is still bad on your transmission because it will overwork your synchro due to fighting the clutch drag.

Those of you who have a lockout in first, have you tried disengaging and quickly engaging clutch again while trying to go into first? Have you guys ensured that the clutch is indeed dragging?

If you're running an upgraded clutch fork, you've tried adjusting the friction point, and the clutch is still dragging, I would speak with the clutch manufacturer. Perhaps something within the clutch is going on?

I hope this helps some,
Eric

[D-VO]

Originally Posted by VeloxEric

Not necessarily, as the RPM drop from the previous gear and the car is rolling, gear selection could become easier. This is still bad on your transmission because it will overwork your synchro due to fighting the clutch drag.

Those of you who have a lockout in first, have you tried disengaging and quickly engaging clutch again while trying to go into first? Have you guys ensured that the clutch is indeed dragging?

If you're running an upgraded clutch fork, you've tried adjusting the friction point, and the clutch is still dragging, I would speak with the clutch manufacturer. Perhaps something within the clutch is going on?

I hope this helps some,
Eric

Thanks Eric. Comp is saying there's something wrong with my slave or master cylinder, but I'm pretty sure I saw another post where someone tried the same thing but that didn't help. Also, I tried disengage re-engage 1st gear, it sticks a bit while re-engaging.

[FaDuck]

After I had my clutch installed, I was having issues with going into 1st, and even 2nd sometimes. It turned out to be the reverse lockout plate. The guy who did the install put the plate back in cock eyed, so the stick was slightly hitting the plate and wouldnt allow it to slip perfectly into gear.