02-09-2018, 01:25 PM | #3473 |
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Yep i see what you're saying, but theres no definitive answer as to when stock dampers could blow. It also depends on the type of roads you have in your area. Also, a lot of members have upgraded to those springs i mentioned earlier on stock dampers and they seem to have held up just fine. If you are set on lowering your car more than 1" at that point i would get aftermarket dampers or Coilovers.
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02-09-2018, 01:34 PM | #3474 | |
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02-09-2018, 02:01 PM | #3475 | |
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Camber bolts are cheap enough and if you do any type of fun driving at all a bit of camber will be nice. -1.5 to -2 wont have much affect on tire wear as long as the toe is zero. The rear it depends from factory if being off side to side bothers you but 1" should not give you too much in the rear really. |
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02-09-2018, 02:40 PM | #3476 | |
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02-09-2018, 02:55 PM | #3477 | |
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02-09-2018, 02:56 PM | #3478 | |
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02-09-2018, 03:02 PM | #3479 |
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OEM toe adjustment will be plenty. Ive ran RCEs just fine without them and been lowered as much as 2.5" no issues either
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02-09-2018, 03:03 PM | #3480 |
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Not necessarily, with 1" lowering you should have no problem getting the toe back to spec. Generally you want to aim for 0 toe front and 1/16 toe-in rear as long as you go to a good reputable alignment shop they should be able to bring it back to spec.
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02-09-2018, 03:07 PM | #3481 |
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02-09-2018, 03:08 PM | #3482 |
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okay thanks a lot for your help and wisdom lol i think i made my mind up and this spring hopefully shes looking much prettier aha
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02-09-2018, 03:16 PM | #3483 |
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Wait so are Sachs 2017 BRZ PP dampers worth it if I don't want to spend on Bilstein/Koni? On TRD springs
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02-09-2018, 03:25 PM | #3484 |
IMO if you have a BRZ with lots of miles and you stumble across a set of low mileage 2017 dampers (PP preferred, but even regular) then yeah absolutely go for it. I do like the Bilstein B6 a lot though if you can fit them in your budget and want something new and inverted monotube up front.
- Andrew |
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02-11-2018, 03:22 PM | #3485 |
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Hey guys I need some quick advice. My lowering springs put some pretty nasty camber on, I'm at -2 rear and -.5 up front. I'll have to go rear LCAs to dial the rear back in, but I'd rather just go camber bolts up front to save on budget and install. From what I've read the max front camber is about -1.3 with bolts. So I'd like to go -.5 less on the rear than the front. My question is that would leave me at about -.8 on the rear....what kind of response would that have? I'm worried things won't be the same as the stock rear camber is about -1.3 to -1.5 factory if I remember correctly. This is for DD and spirited driving.
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02-11-2018, 05:36 PM | #3486 |
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Maybe leave rear camber as is, and dial -2.5 front (probably easily doable with two sets of camberbolts, given some natural neg. camber due lowering)? It might not be the very best for DD, but will lessen budget due not buying rear LCAs?
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