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Old 02-09-2018, 01:25 PM   #3473
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ah okay gotcha, i was just curious since they would have a lot less mileage on them that oem 2017 would last a year or so at least then i could upgrade to coils or aftermarket shocks
Yep i see what you're saying, but theres no definitive answer as to when stock dampers could blow. It also depends on the type of roads you have in your area. Also, a lot of members have upgraded to those springs i mentioned earlier on stock dampers and they seem to have held up just fine. If you are set on lowering your car more than 1" at that point i would get aftermarket dampers or Coilovers.
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Old 02-09-2018, 01:34 PM   #3474
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Yep i see what you're saying, but theres no definitive answer as to when stock dampers could blow. It also depends on the type of roads you have in your area. Also, a lot of members have upgraded to those springs i mentioned earlier on stock dampers and they seem to have held up just fine. If you are set on lowering your car more than 1" at that point i would get aftermarket dampers or Coilovers.
fair enough yeah, its all a gamble lol. i would get coils but i dd all year around and i dont know enough to keep up and maintaining for fixing them like youre supposed to i guess lol but if i just got rce or eibachs would i need any lca or any camber correction or is stock okay for 1"?
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:01 PM   #3475
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fair enough yeah, its all a gamble lol. i would get coils but i dd all year around and i dont know enough to keep up and maintaining for fixing them like youre supposed to i guess lol but if i just got rce or eibachs would i need any lca or any camber correction or is stock okay for 1"?

Camber bolts are cheap enough and if you do any type of fun driving at all a bit of camber will be nice. -1.5 to -2 wont have much affect on tire wear as long as the toe is zero.


The rear it depends from factory if being off side to side bothers you but 1" should not give you too much in the rear really.
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:40 PM   #3476
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fair enough yeah, its all a gamble lol. i would get coils but i dd all year around and i dont know enough to keep up and maintaining for fixing them like youre supposed to i guess lol but if i just got rce or eibachs would i need any lca or any camber correction or is stock okay for 1"?
Lol thats a gamble too, some people didnt need LCA and some people did even with lowering just 1". The car is going to gain negative camber with any kind of lowering theres no escaping that. When this happens for example, your car could be at -1.7 on rear left and -2.2 on the right you just never know how much negative camber your car will gain. I would just get buy LCA to be safe and install them when you're installing the springs so you dont have to worry about installing them again if your rear cambers are way off spec.
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:55 PM   #3477
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Camber bolts are cheap enough and if you do any type of fun driving at all a bit of camber will be nice. -1.5 to -2 wont have much affect on tire wear as long as the toe is zero.


The rear it depends from factory if being off side to side bothers you but 1" should not give you too much in the rear really.
good point, what i might do just get 1" springs, lca and camber bolts and see how that goes and then that gives me time to save for coils or lower springs/shocks but thanks for sharing your knowledge and wisdom lol i dont wanna do things wrong and slowly build my car to oem+ plus look
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Old 02-09-2018, 02:56 PM   #3478
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Lol thats a gamble too, some people didnt need LCA and some people did even with lowering just 1". The car is going to gain negative camber with any kind of lowering theres no escaping that. When this happens for example, your car could be at -1.7 on rear left and -2.2 on the right you just never know how much negative camber your car will gain. I would just get buy LCA to be safe and install them when you're installing the springs so you dont have to worry about installing them again if your rear cambers are way off spec.
lol damn these cars aha but fair enough yeah, if i just get everything needed then ill be covered any way. with 1" i wont need to worry about fixing my toe?
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:02 PM   #3479
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lol damn these cars aha but fair enough yeah, if i just get everything needed then ill be covered any way. with 1" i wont need to worry about fixing my toe?
OEM toe adjustment will be plenty. Ive ran RCEs just fine without them and been lowered as much as 2.5" no issues either
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:03 PM   #3480
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lol damn these cars aha but fair enough yeah, if i just get everything needed then ill be covered any way. with 1" i wont need to worry about fixing my toe?
Not necessarily, with 1" lowering you should have no problem getting the toe back to spec. Generally you want to aim for 0 toe front and 1/16 toe-in rear as long as you go to a good reputable alignment shop they should be able to bring it back to spec.
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:07 PM   #3481
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OEM toe adjustment will be plenty. Ive ran RCEs just fine without them and been lowered as much as 2.5" no issues either
okay awesome! i can get 1" springs, lca and camber bolts all for about $575 brand new which pleases me
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:08 PM   #3482
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Not necessarily, with 1" lowering you should have no problem getting the toe back to spec. Generally you want to aim for 0 toe front and 1/16 toe-in rear as long as you go to a good reputable alignment shop they should be able to bring it back to spec.
okay thanks a lot for your help and wisdom lol i think i made my mind up and this spring hopefully shes looking much prettier aha
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:16 PM   #3483
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Wait so are Sachs 2017 BRZ PP dampers worth it if I don't want to spend on Bilstein/Koni? On TRD springs
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Old 02-09-2018, 03:25 PM   #3484
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IMO if you have a BRZ with lots of miles and you stumble across a set of low mileage 2017 dampers (PP preferred, but even regular) then yeah absolutely go for it. I do like the Bilstein B6 a lot though if you can fit them in your budget and want something new and inverted monotube up front.

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Old 02-11-2018, 03:22 PM   #3485
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Hey guys I need some quick advice. My lowering springs put some pretty nasty camber on, I'm at -2 rear and -.5 up front. I'll have to go rear LCAs to dial the rear back in, but I'd rather just go camber bolts up front to save on budget and install. From what I've read the max front camber is about -1.3 with bolts. So I'd like to go -.5 less on the rear than the front. My question is that would leave me at about -.8 on the rear....what kind of response would that have? I'm worried things won't be the same as the stock rear camber is about -1.3 to -1.5 factory if I remember correctly. This is for DD and spirited driving.
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Old 02-11-2018, 05:36 PM   #3486
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Maybe leave rear camber as is, and dial -2.5 front (probably easily doable with two sets of camberbolts, given some natural neg. camber due lowering)? It might not be the very best for DD, but will lessen budget due not buying rear LCAs?
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