DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush

[THEmailman]

Originally Posted by CamryDS

question about "air bubbles" Where exactly do we look for this? I understand the brakeline change as well as the bleeding part, but I'm not sure about looking for bubbles while bleeding the brake lines.

Figured I might attempt to do this on my own, once I get my car on a lift.

You'll see air bubbles coming out of the line you attach to the bleeder valve that drains into a bottle. They will start out bigger when you first open the valve to bleed but then they will get smaller. Brake fluid is relatively cheap and important to not have air in while I'm on the track so I let it bleed for 30 seconds to a minute with no air before I close the valve.

[CamryDS]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

You'll see air bubbles coming out of the line you attach to the bleeder valve that drains into a bottle. They will start out bigger when you first open the valve to bleed but then they will get smaller. Brake fluid is relatively cheap and important to not have air in while I'm on the track so I let it bleed for 30 seconds to a minute with no air before I close the valve.

Sweet!!! thanks. I don't have to worry about the brake master cylinder then, just the brake lines! sweet deal!.

[THEmailman]

Originally Posted by CamryDS

Sweet!!! thanks. I don't have to worry about the brake master cylinder then, just the brake lines! sweet deal!.

You will need to make sure there is ampke fluid left in the cylinder while you are bleeding, otherwise you will suck air in from there and will have to start the bleeding process all over.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[OrbitalEllipses]

Not sure if anyone else ran into this, but one of my brake lines just spun while I was trying to remove the flare nut. It appears as the though the stamped steel bracket with the retainer on the bottom that secures the soft brake line was incorrectly stamped or simply easily bent. I had to use a wrench on the flats of both brake lines in order to loosen and tighten the flare nut without spinning the line.

[stockysnail]

Speed bleeders ordered with fluid and pads standing by until they arrive! I hope the new pads aren't too hard to get in. I don't have a pad removal tool thingy.

[lazyluka]

Originally Posted by F1point4

SB1010-SS for front and rear.

Fits like a charm.

I am 95% sure this same speed bleeder will work for the clutch too

Originally Posted by Amadeus

There are two lengths offered - 31.35 and 34.44. Which length did you use or does it not matter?

Thank you for all of your great DIY write ups!

I figured it out - it's the longer threaded version with the part # you gave.
I looked at the part numbers closer and the short 31.35 is SB1010S-SS
My eyes skipped the extra "S" and I thought they both had the same #.

Just wondering how much does the speed bleeder stick out by and if the shorter version (31.35) would be better?

Also could someone link me to the part?
All I can find is this, not sure if it's the same though:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Goodridge-Sp...ca7181&vxp=mtr

[Amadeus]

Originally Posted by lazyluka

Also could someone link me to the part?

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/pr...d-Bleeder.html Stainless Steel

I used the 34mm version to be sure it seated completely. Looking at the 34mm bleeder installed, it looks like there is 2-3mm of thread is exposed so if you went with the shorter version I don't know if it will seat completely.

It looks like the ebay version is not stainless and you'd want to verify the length.

[lazyluka]

Originally Posted by Amadeus

http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/pr...d-Bleeder.html Stainless Steel

I used the 34mm version to be sure it seated completely. Looking at the 34mm bleeder installed, it looks like there is 2-3mm of thread is exposed so if you went with the shorter version I don't know if it will seat completely.

It looks like the ebay version is not stainless and you'd want to verify the length.

Thanks

Hmm, I like the idea of flush fitment. May wait a while and hopefully someone tries out the short version.

[ReThink]

Subbed. Thanks for the great write-up brotha!!

[ducky106]

Could anyone explain why stainless steel would be best? Would corrosion really be that much of an issue? I'm more thinking that at $35 for 5 standard bleeders versus $75 for 5 stainless steel it would be far better to go with the standard bleeders.

Also does anyone Know for sure they will fit the clutch.

[Decay107]

Originally Posted by ducky106

Could anyone explain why stainless steel would be best? Would corrosion really be that much of an issue? I'm more thinking that at $35 for 5 standard bleeders versus $75 for 5 stainless steel it would be far better to go with the standard bleeders.

Also does anyone Know for sure they will fit the clutch.

Not sure if SS is better for corrosion, but I purchased the standard SB1010 and had nothing but trouble. Going with the spec 71 in-lbf, 1/3 of the speedbleeders actually sealed (given my results I did not bother with the 4th at all). Basically they felt like they were sealed and there were no visible leaks, but if I would get in the car and really stand on the brakes a few times they would leak enough to pop off the included rubber cap and slightly wet the caliper. I increased the torque to 100 in-lbf (too scared to go higher) which still did not fix the issue. The stock bleeders are back on my car now.

I'll be doing some research into whether I want to double down and try the SS ones.

[I<3Twisties]

I installed a set of Goodridge lines and it did not come with new clips. But the stock clips no longer fit with the new lines. Any one experience this?

[mfbmike]

What size hose? 1/4"?

[smbstyle]

Great writeup!! Thanks!!