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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 11-09-2016, 08:11 AM   #15
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45 HP increase, no ethanol fuel. Those extra horses will be very expensive after a shop like Cosworth builds it, and by build it I mean a completely different engine utilizing the same block. You have to give up buying a house to pay for it. But why?
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:34 AM   #16
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My direction started with a 4.556 FD for around 11% faster gearing (all gears). Drop in air filter, aluminum drive shaft (debatable benefit, but tightened the feel of the drive train for me and weighs half of stock).

Going forward looking at Crawford power blocks, Ace EL headers and a custom tune.

Further down the line some forged 17x7.5" wheels with 225 rubber and, if I can put up with 30% range reduction and the hassle of finding E85, go for a flex fuel custom tuned kit.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:31 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Vracer111 View Post
For NA mods I would do things which would concentrate on lightening mass and lowering MOI of parts while keeping it reliable enough for a DD....don't care about raising power levels as much as getting better engine responsiveness from an NA build. If you can up the redline you can up the power... costs $$$$ though.

Valvetrain and drivetrain would be the focus...exhaust and intake work are a given on any modded car.

Camshafts, rockers/lifters, valves/springs, lightweight flywheel, and reagearing the rear end is where I'd first spend my money/efforts for building NA with the FA20.

Quick FYI there engines don't make any more power after roughly 7800 rpm they die out. You can not do cams that are even remotely worth while without changing the stroke and pistons to prevent them from kissing the valves.
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:34 AM   #18
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My direction started with a 4.556 FD for around 11% faster gearing (all gears). Drop in air filter, aluminum drive shaft (debatable benefit, but tightened the feel of the drive train for me and weighs half of stock).

Going forward looking at Crawford power blocks, Ace EL headers and a custom tune.

Further down the line some forged 17x7.5" wheels with 225 rubber and, if I can put up with 30% range reduction and the hassle of finding E85, go for a flex fuel custom tuned kit.
Does your driveshaft make much noise?? I am looking at getting on simply because its one piece. And get lighter wheels makes big difference on how your suspension reacts to the road that's a step in the right direction
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This thread got de-railed quick now it's just about Penis guitars
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Old 11-09-2016, 12:36 PM   #19
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I don't want to run E85 or other Flex Fuels. While available locally, its not available everywhere and I don't want the added hassle of swapping out tunes to accommodate the availability/unavailability of Flex Fuels in other locations.

It's a minor note, but with one of the Flex Fuel kits and Tunes you don't have to deal changing tunes. It will all be handled automatically based on the ethanol content measured by the Flex Fuel kit.
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:38 PM   #20
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Oft plus a good uel header will make a noticeable difference. I suggest a shorter final drive to make it feel fast.

That's my next mod since I too am not planning to go FI

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Last edited by brzd; 11-09-2016 at 03:32 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 11-09-2016, 01:58 PM   #21
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It's not the loss of mass that is most important in a lightweight flywheel, it's the redistribution to give a lower MOI that is most important...

I don't know about you, but when I've installed racing flywheels with as much mass removed from the periphery as possible to drop the MOI, acceleration/decceleration of the vehicle noticeably and measureably increases - and has nothing to do with a 'power increase'. If you want an assembly to spin up quicker you can either apply more power to it or you could reduce it's MOI - thereby reducing the effort/time needed to accelerate/deccelerate it. Wheel selection is the same way, select the wrong wheels with unneccesary mass concentrated at the periphery and you just slowed down your vehicles acceleration/decceleration. Select a same mass set of wheel with a maximized low MOI and you just increased the vehicles acceleration/decceleration. Same mass, different result - all depends on how its distributed.

Like I said in my initial post, don't really care about raising the power level as much as letting the engine do it's job easier and quicker through MOI reduction. The goal of a NA motor build to me is to increase responsiveness (the ability to accelerate/deccelerate the drivetrain quicker). Increasing power level doesn't necessarily give you a more responsive motor - it can, but it's not a given.
I WAS going to respond in my usual fashion.
However, since last night I have lost the will to live.....

Sure! Reduce weight of the engine & drivetrain rotating mass.
You will immediately feel a "HUUUUGE" increase in HP.
It will make this car great again.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:18 PM   #22
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I WAS going to respond in my usual fashion.
However, since last night I have lost the will to live.....

Sure! Reduce weight of the engine & drivetrain rotating mass.
You will immediately feel a "HUUUUGE" increase in HP.
It will make this car great again.
Saw you posted.
Expected a good read.
Got this instead.


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Old 11-09-2016, 02:48 PM   #23
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Intake

From what I have read, you can achieve almost all the gains available on the intake side by using a simple drop in filter (e.g. K&N). While not as pretty as a GrimmSpeed intake, a K&N is a lot less expensive and give 80 - 90% of the available gains. There are no significant gains for replacing the TB or the intake tube.
I don't think you'll notice anything with a drop in filter. A real waste of money. Personally, I didn't notice any improvement.
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Old 11-09-2016, 02:53 PM   #24
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I don't think you'll notice anything with a drop in filter. A real waste of money. Personally, I didn't notice any improvement.
Sounds cool!
Has exactly the same gains as a light pulley.
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:02 PM   #25
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Oft plus a good uel header will make a noticeable difference. I suggest a shorter final drive to make it feel fast.

That's my next mod since I too ammo both planning to go FI

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The new 2017 does have a higher ratio final drive. If I'm not mistaken it is a 4.30 vs 4.10 in the old car. MT of course.
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:03 PM   #26
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Sounds cool!
Has exactly the same gains as a light pulley.


I am preparing now for a bigger TB. I hope I'll not regret it
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:04 PM   #27
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I don't think you'll notice anything with a drop in filter. A real waste of money. Personally, I didn't notice any improvement.
Actually, I've read exactly the contrary. A K&N alone shows as worth a couple of HP all by itself.
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Old 11-09-2016, 03:05 PM   #28
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I am preparing now for a bigger TB. I hope I'll not regret it
I don't think you will get much from a larger TB except a lighter wallet.
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