Heated Mirror DIY

[markitect]

Here is the DIY for installing heated mirrors. I used aftermarket mirror glass, but you can adapt these to use if you buy complete mirror assemblies to. It took about 2 hours to do the second side.

I am not responsible for any damage you cause doing this.




Parts(for both sides):
Rexpeed or other mirrors(Rexpeed did not sponsor this)
6 x Sumitomo 8240-4422 090-3 multilock terminal unsealed (I think AMP 368084-1 090-3 receptical will work)
2 x AMP 353537-2 040-3 tab
4 x AMP 316836-1 040-3 receptical
Wire: I used 18 awg high abrasion resistance going to the door because it is exposed. I think 22 awg is what the existing harness is
Heat shrink
electrical tape.
Subaru Relay 82501AG041

Tools
flat head screw drivers.
swedge or trip removal tools.
#3 phillips screw driver or socket
Wire Stripper
Crimper

Fish Tape

Directions

1. Roll down the window and disconnect the battery.
2. Remove Mirror Bolt Cover: with flat screw driver pull out from the top.
3. Remove Handle Silver Trip: Pry up with screw driver(there is a whole underneath, then fold up.
   
4. Remove Footwell Wire Cover: remove 1 plastic pop rivet, then pull up the rocker cover and pull cover towards rear of the car to unlock it. Put the rocker cover back.
   
5. Open the screw cover by the lock
6. Remove Screw in Door handle and, and by the lock (3 total), and the plastic rivet at the top right of the panel.
   
7. Starting near the hinge and working down and around: Pull the door card out. You will hear pops as you move around, stop when the door can pivot at the top.
   
8. Swing the panel out,and then slide up.
9. Hold mid air and remove the door latch and lock cable. Pull out the plastic, then move the ball up.
   
10. Disconnect the electrical connectors, they have a latch that needs to be pushed down with a screw driver.
    
11. Go put the door card somewhere, check to see if any black rings were left on the door, if so take them off and put them on the door card white rivets so you don't loose them.
    
12. Disconnect the mirror electrical connector (above the speaker)
    
13. Pull the plastic back and unclip the mirror cable.
    
14. Remove the 3 mirror screws. The rubber pins will hold it in place.
    
15. Pull the mirror assembly off and pull the cable through. This is tricky.
16. Set the mirror aside.
17. Disconnect the two white connectors in the footwell above the passageway. They have latches, but don't need a screwdriver.
    
18. In the door, behind the plastic carefully cut the electrical tape holding the rubber cable way to the white bracket the mirror cable went through (be very careful not to damage the cable way or wires.
    
19. Pry out the plastic piece. I used a tiny screw driver from the front.
    
20. Carefully cut /unwrap the cable way until you get to the wires.
    
21. Inside the door push the boot of the cable way out.
22. Feed the fish tape from the footwell. You can use some dry lubricant(talc, etc) to make it easier.
    
23. When properly inserted it will bulge out the rubber cable way between the body and the door. Don't force it, use you hand to give it a straight path.
    
24. When you can feel it past the boot, put it back in the door.
    
25. When it emerges put the wire through the eye. You can run additional wires for turn signals if your new mirrors have them.
    
26. Pull the fish tape back out from the footwell.
    
27. Cut off the wire at the eye(it is bent and useless).
28. Use a small flathead to take the latch off the door harness to mirror connector.
    
29. It slides back then comes off.
    
30. Strip back some of the heater wire.
31. Crimp a 040 pin on the end of the new heater wire. I had to pull a few stands off the 18 awg wire and take off extra casing because the pin would not fit around the extra thick casing. The wire should go past the wire crimp point.
    
32. Insert the pin with the crimps facing out into pin 4(double check this if you get a mirror assembly. You may need to give the casing crimp an extra pinch to get it in.
    
33. Put the clip back on the connector, using it to push the pin the rest of the way in.
    
34. You could cut electrical tap and run the wire in the plastic, but I used abrasion resistant so I just taped it along the way, pulling excess to the footwell.
    
35. Tape the rubber cable way up completely, then tape it to the cable holder.
    
36. Make sure the rubber boot is in the door.
37. Clip on the cable retainer.
    
38. If you bought a new mirror assembly skip to installing it.
39. Pull the mirror glass off from the bottom.
40. Carefully remove the mirror cover. Good luck I cracked one.
    
41. Untape the mirror cable at the end and at the boot.
    
42. Slide the boot down and the the cable way up.
43. Untape the top of the cable.
44. Feed 2 new wires through the cable way, I just slid them through. You may want to use different colors so you know what is ground if you make any more mods.
    
45. Crimp a 040-3 receptical on each wire, open both sides of the connector like before and insert them. Pin 4 is power and pin 10 is ground (opposite sides, but the same column)
    
46. Put the clips back on.
47. Tape by the connector, and inside the mirror housing.
    
48. Run the wires behind the moving mechanism, and through a handy clip above the mechanism. ,I'm guessing it is for these.
49. Add them to the clip inside the housing.
    
50. Rout them to the side, and cut to length.
51. Clip 090-3 receipticals to the wires, they at least fit on rexpeed mirros.
    
52. Heat shrink the recepticals for safety.
    
53. Attach them to the mirror tabs, it doesn't matter which way.
    
54. Install the mirror.
55. Set the cableway so it barely peaks into the housing, and visually check the mirror clip.
56. Move the boot into place, and take it to the cable way, then put the cover on.
57. Install the mirror: Feed the cable in, then insert the pins.
58. Put the screws in and tighten them down.
59. Put the lower cover on.
60. Put the mirror cable through the cable bracket, and through the plastic.
    
61. Plug it in.
    
62. Re-stick the pastic to the door.
63. Attach the electrical connector and lock cables to the door card.
64. Slide the card over the top.
65. Press down around it to secure the clips.
66. Put the 3 screws in, then the plastic rivet, and install the handle.
67. Cut the wire in the Footwell to length, and Crimp on a 090-3 Receptical.
    
68. Simply slide the wire into the back of the connector, Pin 8.
    
69. Connect the connectors in the footwell
    
70. Reinstall the footwell cover, and install the relay under the hood.
71. In the fuse box under the hood install the relay
    
72. Connect the batter and enjoy.

[markitect]

I think this should cover it pretty well, if you guys have any questions let me know.

[NahumCC]

Good write up for the non keyless entry FR-S. Thank you for taking what I started with on my 10 series and making it easy for everyone else.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

[Sc629]

might be a stupid question, but could i just buy the door wiring harness from the models equipped with the heated mirrors and just replace the one in my door right now? it seems that the heated mirror wiring goes all the way to the harness already and just needs connecting?

[markitect]

You might be able to find a junk yard harness, but it seemed like more work to pull it through. You might even need to remove the door, when I was looking at the best way to run the wire I concluded that the harness is installed in the footwell, going outside before the door gets put on.

[Face_Plant]

Thanks for the great DIY! I'm planning to install my heated Rexpeed mirrors this weekend and I haven't had a look at the passenger side yet, but I assume the process for adding the wiring is the same or at least very similar?