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Old 06-06-2015, 09:10 AM   #71
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I had similar problems. I found that a second person with a small lever or crowbar at the rear of the transmission to provide the forward force while wiggling worked well. I used a shop towel to protect metal surfaces.
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Old 06-06-2015, 09:45 AM   #72
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when the car is hot it's hard to go on 1st gear

Installed a ACT 3 days ago, my issue is when the car is hot it's hard to go on 1st gear and really very hard to get in reverse. Everything normal when cold. Can go on all gears with car off. I'm thinking I really need to mess around more with the clutch pedal. Any input guys? I also bleed the SC many times already.
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Old 06-06-2015, 10:03 AM   #73
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I have an ACT also. It took about 500 miles before it stopped dragging and making it difficult to engage all lower gears. Adjusting the pedal helped a bit, but not much. After the first 500 things are fine apart from the chatter from the light flywheel.
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Old 06-10-2015, 07:19 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by vaderbloke View Post
I have an ACT also. It took about 500 miles before it stopped dragging and making it difficult to engage all lower gears. Adjusting the pedal helped a bit, but not much. After the first 500 things are fine apart from the chatter from the light flywheel.
Good to know, I was really waiting on all the parts to settle before I will fool around again with it. So far I think I found my cars sweet spot regarding the clutch pedal. A bit higher than the brake pedal. Thanks again for this great DIY.

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Old 12-25-2015, 06:37 PM   #75
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This may be a dumb question, but is it necessary to remove the shifter? I removed all the screws and plastic prices getting it ready for tomorrow and am just wondering if I really need to take out the pin and bar that holds the shifter in place. I can't just bring it down like that?

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Old 12-29-2015, 02:24 AM   #76
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This may be a dumb question, but is it necessary to remove the shifter? I removed all the screws and plastic prices getting it ready for tomorrow and am just wondering if I really need to take out the pin and bar that holds the shifter in place. I can't just bring it down like that?

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I assume you have already figured this out but as long as you have removed the lower black boot and you have enough clearance under the car for the shifter I don't see why not. For me, I wouldn't have had enough space with just my jack stands.

I am just now finishing up my clutch swap, and if I were to do it again, I wouldn't touch the shifter from inside, I'd just remove the pin from under the car after I removed the driveshaft. With the pin being under the level of the sheet metal, there seems to be better access from under anyway. If it weren't for the driveshaft being removed already, maybe I'd consider it worth the time to remove the shifter from above.
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Old 12-29-2015, 11:55 PM   #77
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I assume you have already figured this out but as long as you have removed the lower black boot and you have enough clearance under the car for the shifter I don't see why not. For me, I wouldn't have had enough space with just my jack stands.

I am just now finishing up my clutch swap, and if I were to do it again, I wouldn't touch the shifter from inside, I'd just remove the pin from under the car after I removed the driveshaft. With the pin being under the level of the sheet metal, there seems to be better access from under anyway. If it weren't for the driveshaft being removed already, maybe I'd consider it worth the time to remove the shifter from above.
I'm doing mine to, and now I can't get the Damn transmission back in place 😡
Am I doing something wrong? Am I suppose to move the flywheel until the transmission's nose fits into the clutch disc?

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Old 12-30-2015, 12:00 AM   #78
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I'm doing mine to, and now I can't get the Damn transmission back in place 😡
Am I doing something wrong? Am I suppose to move the flywheel until the transmission's nose fits into the clutch disc?

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That or wiggle the trans until the spline shaft slides it smooth. If it's not sliding in smoothly then the splines on the clutch disc and shaft are not aligned. I have a transmission jack adaptor for a floor jack you can use if you like. The brz trans is lite enough to get under it and shimmy it in.


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Old 12-30-2015, 12:03 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by 08stiguy View Post
That or wiggle the trans until the spline shaft slides it smooth. If it's not sliding in smoothly then the splines on the clutch disc and shaft are not aligned. I have a transmission jack adaptor for a floor jack you can use if you like. The brz trans is lite enough to get under it and shimmy it in.


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I had the Alignment tool in it the whole time I was torquing down the pressure plate. I have my own transmission jack to. I had the engine on a jack to support the weight as mentioned to.

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Old 12-30-2015, 12:06 AM   #80
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I had the Alignment tool in it the whole time I was torquing down the pressure plate. I have my own transmission jack to. I had the engine on a jack to support the weight as mentioned to.

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You may need to play with both the Angel of the motor and trans to mate the 2. Pay close attention to the guide pins. They will tell you when you're straight and true.then all you need to do is turn the fly wheel a bit to align the teeth.


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Old 12-30-2015, 12:09 AM   #81
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You may need to play with both the Angel of the motor and trans to mate the 2. Pay close attention to the guide pins. They will tell you when you're straight and true.then all you need to do is turn the fly wheel a bit to align the teeth.


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So I do need to align the flywheel with the teeth correct? This is going to be a b. Ok I'll just Finnish it tomorrow then..

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Old 12-30-2015, 12:11 AM   #82
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So I do need to align the flywheel with the teeth correct? This is going to be a b. Ok I'll just Finnish it tomorrow then..

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Correct. Other wise you risk damaging the clutch disc. Just wiggling the trans should get the teeth to align.


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Old 12-30-2015, 01:07 AM   #83
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I had the Alignment tool in it the whole time I was torquing down the pressure plate. I have my own transmission jack to. I had the engine on a jack to support the weight as mentioned to.

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Its not there just to support the engine weight, you are actually tilting the engine so that its easier to line up the shaft on the tranny. My best suggestion is to tilt the engine as far as you feel comfortable (I have stiffer perrin mounts, I tilted it just shy of lifting the front of the car up, yolo) and then jiggle it around and try different positions until it slides in. The tolerance is pretty tight, you need it lined up pretty perfectly. I put my tranny in gear and then spun the back shaft of the tranny by hand vice spinning the flywheel in order to get the shaft splines up, but I think that's usually going to be less of a problem than getting the shaft strait with the hole.

It might take awhile of jiggling and screwing around, but it will eventually go in. Mine took maybe 3 minutes of screwing around, not including breaks.
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:16 PM   #84
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Correct. Other wise you risk damaging the clutch disc. Just wiggling the trans should get the teeth to align.


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Got it in finally! Do you by any chance know the torque specs to the transmission and drive shaft?

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