05-25-2019, 12:24 AM | #57 | |
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05-25-2019, 12:27 AM | #58 | |
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https://www.waukbearing.com/en/techn...ation-erosion/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1558758736897 Quote:
Last edited by solidsnake11; 05-25-2019 at 12:48 AM. |
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05-25-2019, 12:43 AM | #59 | ||
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05-25-2019, 01:03 AM | #60 | |
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05-25-2019, 08:49 AM | #61 | |
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Here is a picture of some of my bearings. 86k miles, all stock running 5-w30. Spun #3 (pictured on the left) but all the others looked like the one on the right. Very clear signs of starvation. |
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05-25-2019, 10:08 AM | #62 |
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Any signs of cavitation like in the links above?
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05-25-2019, 12:58 PM | #63 |
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I don't think cavitation at the bearings is causing damage or even happening (I don't know really).
I think this is the chain of effects: restrictive pump inlet -> low inlet pressure -> cavitation at the pump -> decreased oil mass output from the pump + huge pressure oscillations -> decreased oil pressure / flow in the main gallery -> oil starvation at the bearings (rod bearings 2 +3 are the most damaged usually because of the shared oiling) Now there's another big variable that complicates things which is the PRV. Exactly how much it contributes to the above conditions in the FA20 engine is unknown to me, but it's easy to see that when it opens it creates turbulent flow right at the pump's inlet so it can only make things worse. Chris from Killer B has studied this deeply in the EJ engine and thinks it contributes a LOT. Reducing the pressure drop between the pump's outlet and the main gallery (by doing the modifications I did) can only contribute to keep the PRV shut more and help with this. Adding shims to increase the PRV opening pressure also helps. The way to study the PRV's behavior is simple (but I don't think I'll be the one to do it): tap the pump's outlet as close to the PRV opening as possible and install a pressure sensor the way I did in the inlet. Analysing that pressure in relation to the pressure in the main gallery and the pump's inlet would allow us to get a very deep insight on the PRV and the lubrication system for this engine in general (doing this in a bone stock engine would also be very interesting). With my 2.0 mm shims I've measured a 17.0 kg opening force for the PRV which means 8.3 bar (16.0 mm PRV piston diameter). You would think it's not opening if my oil pressure sensor indicates 4.0 bar, but if there's enough pressure increase from the main gallery (where I measure oil pressure) to the pump's outlet (where the PRV is) it might very well be dancing around. Measuring the pressure right at the PRV would tell us exactly. Just as an example: You can see the big (~ 1.0 bar) pressure drop between both measuring points. It's almost double than what my complete JDL oil cooler creates. Only after seeing this is that I decided to make more extreme modifications (like modifying the block's entrance for a bigger oring) to the galleries that take the oil from the pump to the main gallery in the block. Please remember all this is to increase oil flow TO THE CRANK. The heads have different entrances (although some parts are shared) and I haven't touched them. Increasing oil flow to the crank will not create oil return problems in a boxer engine because the oil drops directly to the pan. Having said this, I have ALSO ported and improved the head oil return ducts to the pan (many obvious spots that can me improved) and installed a Bluemoon Performance baffled oil plate to help get the oil to the pan more efficiently and keep it there. And just to make it clear, I embarked in all this craziness only AFTER having oil starvation engine failures with a stock lubrication system. If my engine would have survived without problems, I probably would've never even disassembled the oil pump in the first place and would've spent all my time tuning, trying to make more power and enjoying the car at the track.
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05-25-2019, 02:23 PM | #64 | |
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Now I'm motivated to look at this myself. Unbelievable!
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05-25-2019, 02:58 PM | #65 |
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I have a solution to the oil cooler pressure drop. WRX scavenge pump modified to pump oil through the cooler.
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05-26-2019, 02:20 AM | #66 | |
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Doesn't the pressure drop have to be somewhat significant for oil to flow in a given direction fast enough? The difference in oil pressure will determine the flow. The closer the pressures are to each other then the slower the flow will be. I'm pretty sure my Greddy oil pressure sensor is attached to the stock location on the front of the cover, closest to the pump, right? My Greddy oil temp sensor is attached to the main oil galley on top of the block, closest to the core of the motor, right? How is your set up?
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05-26-2019, 02:44 AM | #67 | |
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05-26-2019, 10:16 AM | #68 | |
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Remember that pumps - and this is ANY FLUID PUMP IN THE UNIVERSE - produce FLOW not PRESSURE! The pressure is a measure of the resistance the system presents to the flow the pump is producing. So if the pressure at the inlet of the oil pump drops due to the larger pickup tube allowing more FLOW, that is a good thing as long as the NPSH of the pump can be met through the larger tube with the pump's capacity. A larger PD pump doesnt produce more or less pressure - it moves a fixed volume for each rotation period. The amount of metal removed in traditional cavitation is microscopic at these flow / pressure levels. It'd pass through bearing clearances, possibly even the filter media depending on brand. Conversely - it would show up on a UOA. Pressure is monitored instead of flow in an engine because they are linked well with positive displacement pumps. Drop in pressure downstream of the pump means that flow rate has dropped. A flow meter is complicated and overkill for these applications. Centrifugal pumps and gasses complicate things big time haha! |
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05-26-2019, 01:34 PM | #69 |
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The fluid dynamics isn't easy to understand, nor is it easy to see how the system is set up just looking at the parts from pictures on the internet. I feel like we would need to see a flow diagram with the size of the tubes. Even then I don't know if I am up to the task.
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05-26-2019, 01:43 PM | #70 |
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