Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[z3ro]

WTF!? i have to cut my dog in to 8 pieces to bring him to Laguna Seca!?


FUCK THAT!

FUCK MATH!

JIM BEAM! WOOOOOOO HOOOOOOOO!

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

Math, bitches.

What you did there, I see it. LoL


I was under the impression that 'added paddle or electronic shifters' meant anything added above the BTM, which for us would be the automatic transmission that is a factory option as opposed to the manual tranny that comes standard in the base trim model. I would love to not take the points, but I think you're right right, I'll take it up with our chapter director.

I also assumed the same to be true of our spoiler, which is oem, but again an option above the BTM which comes without a spoiler. And we did notice rue difference the oem spoiler makes. We had the car for two weeks before the spoiler arrived at the dealer and had already done about 1600 miles with no spoiler. The oem is surprisingly effective.

Edit: I should add that we had the spoiler added as a cosmetic detail when we first bought the car, and had no competitive plans at the time. I can't see removing it now as it would feel naked.


Sent from a secret volcano base using trained sharks

[AZP Installs]

Anyone who would argue that the at in the brz is an advantage is doing so purely as a technicality and would be falling under the unsportsmanlike clause in the ccr if I were the RD.

Mike

[ddeflyer]

Originally Posted by TrogDor the Burninator

So a couple things ...

The 2014 NASA TT rules say this about paddle shifters:

Page 32 under section D. Drivetrain
4) Added paddle/electronic shift +3

I think the key word here is "Added" ... If the Paddle Shifters are stock and come on the car naturally, then I don't believe you take points for this. I would ask your NASA Director on that one ...


Raceseng CasCam plates "might" work on stock suspension, but I think it would be a custom piece that needs to be fabricated. They have a custom coilover form you can fill out, but I haven't heard of anyone with the plates on stock suspension ...

As for the lip spoiler, it's pretty much worthless but yeah, it's a point add. You might look for a more aggressive spoiler that will actually add some downforce if you are going to take points for the one you have now ...

I'm in HPDE3 as well, with a goal of finishing out the season with the TT group. Would like to start next season off in TTD and start accruing points!

Good luck to you !

I have the cascam plates on stock suspension, got them through CSG.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

For the rear diff, what about some of the aftermarket diff covers that increase capacity and have cooling vanes? Would that be sufficient, or would you need an external radiator?

Does this car log diff or trans fluid temps, or do you need to add your own sensors and logger to find out if radiators are needed?

If fluid expansion is an issue, a vent can be added to relieve the pressure.

It would be great if a radiator could be avoided short of endurance racing. I'd want to avoid the complexity and noise that a system like this one would have.

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by dradernh

Does this car log diff or trans fluid temps, or do you need to add your own sensors and logger to find out if radiators are needed?

If fluid expansion is an issue, a vent can be added to relieve the pressure.

It would be great if a radiator could be avoided short of endurance racing. I'd want to avoid the complexity and noise that a system like this one would have.

No trans or diffy sensors on this car that I know of. 99% sure.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

No trans or diffy sensors on this car that I know of. 99% sure.

-Mike Paisan


Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.
Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs
"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I also have not seen any PIDs for tranny or diff in DashCommand (even for the auto). Engine Oil temp is the only one.

[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

No trans or diffy sensors on this car that I know of. 99% sure.

-Mike Paisan

Both the aftermarket diff covers on FT-86SF made a point to say that they included ports for temp sensors and fluid coolers. That makes me think that it's not included on the OEM setup.

[kavanagh]

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

I have the cascam plates on stock suspension, got them through CSG.

How have those plates worked for you on the stock setup? Does the undermounting of the plate cause the car to have a higher ride height than stock? What did you do for the rears?

Does anyone that knows NASA TT rules know if the spherical bearing in the cam plate will cause a points assessment per suspension rule E.22?

Metallic and/or spherical-design replacement suspension bushings +3 (except for pillow ball camber plate joints, sway
bar end links already assessed points in E.7) above, control arm spindle/knuckle joints already assessed points in E.9) above, and panhard rod, Watts link, torque arm, and third links already assessed in E.19), E.20), E.21), E.22) above.)

Rule E.7 for reference even though it does not apply:

Add, replace, remove, or modify anti-roll bars (“sway” bars—front, rear, or both) or end links—may have spherical joints
on the end links and/or relocation of the mounting points without additional points assessment) +2

[TrogDor the Burninator]

Originally Posted by kavanagh

How have those plates worked for you on the stock setup? Does the undermounting of the plate cause the car to have a higher ride height than stock? What did you do for the rears?

Does anyone that knows NASA TT rules know if the spherical bearing in the cam plate will cause a points assessment per suspension rule E.22?

Metallic and/or spherical-design replacement suspension bushings +3 (except for pillow ball camber plate joints, sway
bar end links already assessed points in E.7) above, control arm spindle/knuckle joints already assessed points in E.9) above, and panhard rod, Watts link, torque arm, and third links already assessed in E.19), E.20), E.21), E.22) above.)

Rule E.7 for reference even though it does not apply:

Add, replace, remove, or modify anti-roll bars (“sway” bars—front, rear, or both) or end links—may have spherical joints
on the end links and/or relocation of the mounting points without additional points assessment) +2

Eh ... I think this is geared more towards the bushings on suspension arms and links, and not the manner in which the strut attaches to a camber plate. Again, always best to check with your Regional Director though. I usually ask these questions in my NASA forums and get a pretty quick reply.

One thing I'll say about suspension though, specifically spring rates if you are looking to make any changes in the future. I had a set of RCE Tarmac II clubsports with 400/400 spring rates. I moved to the KW V3s that have a slightly softer front rate to rear rate (340 Front and 400 rear) and was very happy with the softer front. Turn in was much more precise and though there is a hair more body roll, the steering at speed into corners was fantastic.

I know many more people think that you should have stiffer springs up front due to weight distribution, but that wasn't my experience at all. 3 track days since the switch on my coilovers and spring rates, and I couldn't be happier ...

I know though ... there are a ton of people that say the opposite ... I can only tell you what my experience has been ...

[troek]

almost all the time attack cars(86/brz) over here in japan run stiffer springs in the rear too.

[uncivilised]

how many track days/heatcycles would RS3's take before they're trashed?

What tread depth is the fastest for said tyres?

got a track day in a month and my rs3 are quite low. thinking i should get some new ones and wear them in a bit

[jblmr2]

Mike, I just completed my 10th track day last Friday. My lap times are improving and more consistent. I've basically followed the recipe you laid out in your sticky. Now I'm looking for some "next steps" for both car and driver. Goals: 5 or 6 track days per season, my car is a DD so I want to maintain a reasonable comfort level for street driving, I'm willing to mod the car but want to minimize the expense. To date my mods are: RS3's in stock size, RBF 600 brake fluid, CL RC5+ pads, Perrin panel filter, Grimmspeed strut brace, Grimmspeed master cyl brace, Harry's Laptimer for both video and data.


My initial thoughts are crash bolts and alignment, slotted/drilled front rotors, and more track time. Input would be appreciated.

[ZionsWrath]

I noticed some tracks require you to have wood under any jacks and jack stands.

I don't know much about quality but I know there are different grades available. If I got a sheet of ply wood and cut it to size for my stands and jack, what grade/quality would I need to support the car?