How to use the OEM amp Wiring

[SubieNubie]

Anyone getting alternator/engine noise?

[SubieNubie]

Update:

Hopefully this saves some leg work or solves a problem for someone else.

I've traced my grounding issue back to the amplifer. I tried powering the amplifier on power and ground off my power wire and ground, I ran already for my AudioControl LC2i line out converter, in lieu of off the factory amplifier harness. But it did not eliminate the issue. Given that I ordered an Alpine MRV-F300 to replace the Alpine KTP-445U. It gives you more power and more flexibility in a slightly bigger foot print. Its also has the ability for high level inputs, and its about the same price as a KTP-445U used on ebay. In addition to this I found a review on Sonic Electronix that also addresses an issue with alternator whine when using a line out converter with the KTP-445U.

After I swapped that in, I tried utilizing the factory amplifier power harness to power my LC2i. But the a grounding issue reappeared. So as of now the only thing I am running off the factory amplifier wiring harness is the speaker inputs to my LC2i and my speaker output to my woofers in the doors, thats it. The output is crystal clear, no static what so ever.

[unlimited86]

Just installed an amp and subwoofer, Thanks for the help OP. But I have a questions, does anyone know how to set the input sensitivity control? The manual tells me to set it to the pre-output level of the headunit, but what is it on the stock headunit?

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by unlimited86

Just installed an amp and subwoofer, Thanks for the help OP. But I have a questions, does anyone know how to set the input sensitivity control? The manual tells me to set it to the pre-output level of the headunit, but what is it on the stock headunit?

There are various ways to do this. I use a dmm and a 0db 50hz file. Google set gain with dmm. Sonic electronix has a pretty good starters guide that describes terms and such. If you don't have a dmm, ask some of your friends if you can borrow one.

[Sam.Vera]

This is fantastic documentation! I am going to replace the stock amp ASAP

[CypriniousM]

So first and foremost this thread should be a sticky but I'm new here so i have no idea how to tell the mods that. This thread has helped me put together my build and i wanted to share it before i do the install to see if anyone has any opinions before i blow something up.

HU: Kenwood 6709s 50x4 @4ohm w/ idata maetro thing
Amp: Apline MRV-300
Door speakers: Alpine SPR-50 (2 ways)
Dash: Alpine 1" silk dome tweeter
3.5" i dont know what kind yet recommendations?
Back panel: Alpine SPR-69 6x9 2ways

Im going to run the amp through the stock wiring and have the dash and 6x9's run off the head unit. I think the head unit should be able to push enough power but if they can't them im going to run them off of the amp since i will have 2 open channels left that i was going to use for sub expansion later.

For this set up i will have to fabricate a mount for the back panels so im wondering what i should use. i was going to do wood but if you guys have any better ideas let me know.

Also im going to have to do some sound dampening but i havent figured out what im going to use.

Hopefully pictures and install video will follow. (dont count on the video to much)

Thanks

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by CypriniousM

So first and foremost this thread should be a sticky but I'm new here so i have no idea how to tell the mods that. This thread has helped me put together my build and i wanted to share it before i do the install to see if anyone has any opinions before i blow something up.

HU: Kenwood 6709s 50x4 @4ohm w/ idata maetro thing
Amp: Apline MRV-300
Door speakers: Alpine SPR-50 (2 ways)
Dash: Alpine 1" silk dome tweeter
3.5" i dont know what kind yet recommendations?
Back panel: Alpine SPR-69 6x9 2ways

Im going to run the amp through the stock wiring and have the dash and 6x9's run off the head unit. I think the head unit should be able to push enough power but if they can't them im going to run them off of the amp since i will have 2 open channels left that i was going to use for sub expansion later.

For this set up i will have to fabricate a mount for the back panels so im wondering what i should use. i was going to do wood but if you guys have any better ideas let me know.

Also im going to have to do some sound dampening but i havent figured out what im going to use.

Hopefully pictures and install video will follow. (dont count on the video to much)

Thanks

I would recommend on the doors and dash just get a component set like the spr-50c or 60c, you'll save heartache in the end. then bridge the amp to them, or not, either way you'll save heartache.


The 3.5s in the dash are technically optional. I have been playing with mine for awhile now, but long story short mixing front drivers will lead to challenges in getting it to sound right. unfortunately good 3way sets are very expensive :<. I have 3.5s but I don't think im going to use them again unless I go full active.


for the rear, 3d printing is an option too, if you know anyone with a printer. there's even a thread somewhere around here where someone posted stl files for 6.5 brackets for the rear. otherwise yea, plywood works, seen other builds with it.

[CypriniousM]

Originally Posted by Chimera

I would recommend on the doors and dash just get a component set like the spr-50c or 60c, you'll save heartache in the end. then bridge the amp to them, or not, either way you'll save heartache.


The 3.5s in the dash are technically optional. I have been playing with mine for awhile now, but long story short mixing front drivers will lead to challenges in getting it to sound right. unfortunately good 3way sets are very expensive :<. I have 3.5s but I don't think im going to use them again unless I go full active.


for the rear, 3d printing is an option too, if you know anyone with a printer. there's even a thread somewhere around here where someone posted stl files for 6.5 brackets for the rear. otherwise yea, plywood works, seen other builds with it.

So its better just to eliminate the 3.5 in the dash and have the tweeters come off the 6.5 from the doors?

I was just going to use plywood of some kind for the brackets. I wish I knew someone who could 3d print them for me, but then I would need the blue print and I'm bad at finding stuff like that.

I was also considering running the 6x9 in the back off the amp bridged because they have 100 RMS and 50 off the head doesn't seem like it will give me the kind of sound I want. Then I would just rerun the wires... but then it's like what was the point of running everything through the stock harness. To many ways to skin the cat.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by CypriniousM

So its better just to eliminate the 3.5 in the dash and have the tweeters come off the 6.5 from the doors?

I was just going to use plywood of some kind for the brackets. I wish I knew someone who could 3d print them for me, but then I would need the blue print and I'm bad at finding stuff like that.

I was also considering running the 6x9 in the back off the amp bridged because they have 100 RMS and 50 off the head doesn't seem like it will give me the kind of sound I want. Then I would just rerun the wires... but then it's like what was the point of running everything through the stock harness. To many ways to skin the cat.

Yes. As far as 2vs 3 way, if you can afford a 3 way, that's probably the best way to go, but you can get great 2 way sets much more affordably. I want the jl 3way set tbh, but I am running spr-60c atm.

[TheWatersBoy]

So I think I'm just completely over thinking this, or I'm more of a noon than I think I am when I comes to car audio lol. But can someone explain to me exactly how you would wirecommend this up to add a sub? I bought the metro 70-1761 harness and a line out converter, but I'm not being able to figure out from what's been posted already how to rewire the harness, and why it has to be rewired, as well as how to connect everything together. Can someone please help break it down a little bit more?

Edit to the edit: So I'm starting to figure this all out and here's the question. If I hook the metra 70-1761 to the oem harness and wire it to the configuration in the OP, and connect in the line out converter to the signal wires, then connect the wires to the metro 71-1761 and plug that into the amp, will that allow me to have door speakers and add a sub?

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by TheWatersBoy

So I think I'm just completely over thinking this, or I'm more of a noon than I think I am when I comes to car audio lol. But can someone explain to me exactly how you would wirecommend this up to add a sub? I bought the metro 70-1761 harness and a line out converter, but I'm not being able to figure out from what's been posted already how to rewire the harness, and why it has to be rewired, as well as how to connect everything together. Can someone please help break it down a little bit more?

Edit to the edit: So I'm starting to figure this all out and here's the question. If I hook the metra 70-1761 to the oem harness and wire it to the configuration in the OP, and connect in the line out converter to the signal wires, then connect the wires to the metro 71-1761 and plug that into the amp, will that allow me to have door speakers and add a sub?

Yes, it is not necessary to re-color the pins, but it helps keep functions straight without a cheat sheet, wire the 70-1761 to the 71-1761 to the connections go straight across. This will let you retain the stock amps functions. You could test it with the straight across and no LOC at this point to be sure it works. then wire the LOC tapped to the front left and right signals (white and gray IF you repin) if you have a stereo LOC (many are). After that run your RCAs and power to your sub amp, wire up your sub, test again for functionality, clean up your work, and enjoy


Hope that helps.

[NickB34]

Originally Posted by TheWatersBoy

So I think I'm just completely over thinking this, or I'm more of a noon than I think I am when I comes to car audio lol. But can someone explain to me exactly how you would wirecommend this up to add a sub? I bought the metro 70-1761 harness and a line out converter, but I'm not being able to figure out from what's been posted already how to rewire the harness, and why it has to be rewired, as well as how to connect everything together. Can someone please help break it down a little bit more?

Edit to the edit: So I'm starting to figure this all out and here's the question. If I hook the metra 70-1761 to the oem harness and wire it to the configuration in the OP, and connect in the line out converter to the signal wires, then connect the wires to the metro 71-1761 and plug that into the amp, will that allow me to have door speakers and add a sub?

Kind of a mess, but the picture does show all the connections. LC2i -> amp -> door speakers and sub.

[Sam.Vera]

Repinned harness worked awesome! I used a Kenwood two channel amp (75 watts RMS @ 2 Ohms) to power the stock door woofers for now. I have some Kenwood component woofers (amp will output 60 watts RMS @ 4 Ohms) that I'll put in when I'm not feeling lazy, the tweeters are already installed.

[TOLM]

(rise of the dead)

Awesome thread, kudos to whoever started this one and contributed to it

Question: looks like to intercept the signal to feed it into an aftermarket amp, we can either use pins 1-5/ 2-6 (amplified) or 3-9/4-10 (presumably high level as well just not yet subject to another amplification).

Which pins did you guys use for your project?

(Background: I am looking just to add a sub, keeping stock amp for front woofers.. kinda makes sense to use 1-5/2-6 to get a nice and strong signal for my sub???)

thanks