Replacing a Bricked damaged or faulty ECU with new or used ECU FRS BRZ GT 86

[steve99]

Originally Posted by CokeZero

That’s what I’ve been saying all along. The obd has power but can’t put the push button start into full on mode

What im asking is can you talk to ecu and read fault codes, the ecu will report fault codes related to imobilisier or other moduoes it cannot talk to or sync with, this will bive you clies as to what to do.


Theirs no jarm in loop in 4-13 on obd to try but you need to read fault codes from ecu to see whats going on

[CokeZero]

Originally Posted by steve99

What im asking is can you talk to ecu and read fault codes, the ecu will report fault codes related to imobilisier or other moduoes it cannot talk to or sync with, this will bive you clies as to what to do.


Theirs no jarm in loop in 4-13 on obd to try but you need to read fault codes from ecu to see whats going on

Look at this and tell me what you think

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5KOtsy0Zfg[/ame]

The obd gets power but the scanner I have wont connect to the car without it being in all on mode (which I can't get the car to do, see video)

[steve99]

Originally Posted by CokeZero

Look at this and tell me what you think

The obd gets power but the scanner I have wont connect to the car without it being in all on mode (which I can't get the car to do, see video)

Hmm that looks like you got some other electrical issues.


Why did the 3 control units need replacing ?


wiring diagram here
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43087


or here


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...KZRdfw0USLNPjY




service manuals
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/

[CokeZero]

Originally Posted by steve99

Hmm that looks like you got some other electrical issues.


Why did the 3 control units need replacing ?


wiring diagram here
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43087


or here


http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...KZRdfw0USLNPjY




service manuals
https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal/

I bought it as a project. It was in a low flood. The previous owner replaced the computers but never got them programmed. I've checked all the fuses and swapped around some relays. Ive put the original computers back in and switched out every combination of the three.

Kind of clueless where to go from here. I don't wanna take it to the dealer for program and them tell me something else is wrong and charge me anyway

[edwardleeaf]

1. Since I drive a 2013 frs automatic and plan on keeping it stock forever, does that mean that if I find a used 2013 FRS automatic ECU, I can skip the Techstream step?

2. For step 4, replacing battery terminal, is there a point to cut and clamp a new battery terminal?

[steve99]

Originally Posted by edwardleeaf

1. Since I drive a 2013 frs automatic and plan on keeping it stock forever, does that mean that if I find a used 2013 FRS automatic ECU, I can skip the Techstream step?

2. For step 4, replacing battery terminal, is there a point to cut and clamp a new battery terminal?

Their is no need for techstream or to change vin number, car will start and run fine without changing vin.


The new ecu does have to contain a compatable ecu tune , so if its from same year model same transmission should be fine.


The ecu can be flashed with correct tune if needed the hardware is all the same


When i say remove and replace batterty terminals im just taking disconnect and connect ie its just to remove power to car

[edwardleeaf]

Thanks Steve! Guess I was following the instructions too literally!

[tomm.brz]

if it has '15 firmware it will probably start anyway but then you should flash older tune because the newer tune will most probably trigger DTCs

[Enalband24]

OK. Bit of a longshot here.

I was drawn to this thread because I've seen it before when I needed to replace my ECU in the BRZ. Didn't end up replacing the factory ECU in my BRZ, just dropped in a Motec instead.

BUT, I'm having what I believe to be an ECU issue in my 2018 wrx...similar crap...I think a code is essentially burned in. I've done a ton of diagnosing and still want to 100% confirm before I purchase a new ECU, so I have a few more things to troubleshoot. If anyone is interested in the code/diagnosing process I went through, I'd be glad to share, but it's extensive.

I really, REALLY, don't want to go to the dealership to have them swap the ECU. I have an AP married to the car and have a ton of other mods on the car (planning for big power this year), and just foresee it being a huge hassle at the dealership. To be clear, I'm talking about the dealership just working on the car, I would NOT claim anything under warranty. I'm 99% sure this is my fault somehow.

My question is, does anyone think this process will work for swapping the ECU in my 2018 WRX?

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Enalband24

OK. Bit of a longshot here.

I was drawn to this thread because I've seen it before when I needed to replace my ECU in the BRZ. Didn't end up replacing the factory ECU in my BRZ, just dropped in a Motec instead.

BUT, I'm having what I believe to be an ECU issue in my 2018 wrx...similar crap...I think a code is essentially burned in. I've done a ton of diagnosing and still want to 100% confirm before I purchase a new ECU, so I have a few more things to troubleshoot. If anyone is interested in the code/diagnosing process I went through, I'd be glad to share, but it's extensive.

I really, REALLY, don't want to go to the dealership to have them swap the ECU. I have an AP married to the car and have a ton of other mods on the car (planning for big power this year), and just foresee it being a huge hassle at the dealership. To be clear, I'm talking about the dealership just working on the car, I would NOT claim anything under warranty. I'm 99% sure this is my fault somehow.

My question is, does anyone think this process will work for swapping the ECU in my 2018 WRX?

This process was in the btz\86 service manuals, i have no idea if it eould work with a 2018 wrx as they use a hitaci ecu not a Denso. You would need to get hold of the repair and service manuals and find the swap process


I very much doubt their are eny permanent burnt in error codes or learned values in ecu, ive swapped lots in brz 86 and that sort of thing would cause issues on a swap. I think your ecu either has a hardware issue or you have a hardware or senor issue in car

[Enalband24]

Originally Posted by steve99

This process was in the btz\86 service manuals, i have no idea if it eould work with a 2018 wrx as they use a hitaci ecu not a Denso. You would need to get hold of the repair and service manuals and find the swap process


I very much doubt their are eny permanent burnt in error codes or learned values in ecu, ive swapped lots in brz 86 and that sort of thing would cause issues on a swap. I think your ecu either has a hardware issue or you have a hardware or senor issue in car

Steve, thanks for the response and advice. I don't know why I didn't think to check the service manual I have, lol *face palm*

And as for saying I thought the code was burnt in, I didn't mean literally, I just meant I think the ECU is having some internal issues generally. I have a code that is recurring after all related components have been replaced, harnesses checked with multimeter etc. Everything is fine.

Last thing I have to do is just check the signal the ECU is outputting, and compare it to my buddies identical WRX...I suspect the signal will be incorrect in voltage and timing. We'll see...

[Flukester]

Thank you steve99 for this useful thread.

I confirm this worked on my 2019 BRZ 6MT, swapping in a spare (used) ECU from a 2017 BRZ 6MT. I wanted to test it, before I actually need it (and possibly find out it doesn't work..). It's working well now, I'll probably stay on this spare ECU and won't revert back to my "pristine" (never flashed) original ECU..

When I tried the process the first time, I did not get the flashing CEL light in the dash. I thought maybe it had changed on the 2017+ models so I still waited for a half hour and sure enough, after waiting for 30 minutes, engine would not even attempt to crank at all. I figured out my mistake the next day..

In order to loop pins 4 and 13, I built myself a "fancy" OBD-II male connector with two crimped pins and a piece of wire. I didn't want to insert a wire directly in the female connector in the car because I wanted to make sure I would not damage the female connector.

Just for reference, I used the following Molex components:

• Molex 68503-1602 (male connector housing, with locking tab)
• Molex 57964-9702 (loose pins, quantity 2)

Those can be ordered from Mouser and other retailers (probably Digikey and others). The part numbers at Mouser were 538-68503-1602 and 538-57964-9702-LP. Make sure you order extra pins in case you mess up when crimping.

I used my usual Molex crimpers to prepare the little cable with two pins. Once crimped, I inserted the pins in their appropriate location and the pins "click" in place. I'm not sure how to remove the pins from the housing, there must be a special Molex tool for that, which I do not own.

If you attempt to do this, keep in mind the pin locations are mirrored, if you look at the male connector from the pin side. There are small numbers in the plastic mold of the housing, to double check the location.

So back to my initial problem: my little OBD-II loop was actually built properly. I just didn't insert it quite hard enough on the first try. This Molex male connector housing has a locking tab (preventing the connector from simply being pulled out). This makes the connector harder to insert fully. At least, when doing this single handed under the dash, I didn't push it completely in on my first attempt.

On my second attempt, I crawled under the steering wheel and made sure I could squeeze the connector in place (holding the bracket and female connector while pushing) instead of just inserting the connector like I normally would. It took a little more force than my other OBD-II devices but I felt the familiar "click" of the locking tab.

Once that was done, I did get the flashing CEL and everything worked as intended. I even reflashed with my stock ROM using a Tactrix cable. My only step left is to correct the VIN using Techstream.


Thank you again for the nice write up and detailed procedure.
Flukester

[Aurange]

Originally Posted by steve99

Replacing a Bricked or damaged faulty ECU with new or used ECU (engine control Module) BRZ FRS GT 86

As usual this info is provided in good faith ,I accept no responsibility for the accuracy of this information or any loss or damage resulting from the use of this information


Thanks to @FRS Justin for his assistance


ECU - Engine control module (same as ECM engine control module)
ODB Port - near steering wheel also known as DLC port


What you will need


1. A replacement ECU new or used of same type as your current ECU


If you buy a used ECU (note Toyota/Subaru call them ECM engine control modules) make sure its from the same model/year and transmission type ie auto/manual. Unless you have a flash device so you can flash the ecu with the correct rom all ecu up to 2016 appear to be same hardware even auto or manual is same.

If you buying a used ECU be careful as it may have a "tune" written to it by a system such as Ecutek or BRZEdit which lock the ecu to that system and you will not be able to access the ecu to flash it with open-source tools such as OFT or Tactrix/Ecuflash. You will first need to unlock the ECU with whatever system locked it. Or return it for an ECU thats not locked, unfortunately it is not easy to determine if the ecu is locked or to what system it is locked to unless you have that particular system

Info on Tune systems popular with this vehicle.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106068


Its possible to reflash an ECU with the correct rom calibration after using this procedure but I am not 100% if it will work as their may be slight hardware differences between ECU from different models or regions or auto/manual. But we have done auto to manual from usa ecu to australian ecu. This should work for 2012 to 2016 ecu, im not 100% on the new MY2017 ecu but its likely the same and compatible. Note that the 2017 ecu ROM's/calid is not compatable with 2016 or earlier cars and earlier ecu rom's/calid is not compatable with 2017 cars, the hardware appears same but something has changes in security communications. This proceedure will still work but you wont get a 2017 car to start on earlier than 2017 rom, and you wont get an early car to work on 2017. ie you need to flash in the correct ecu calid rom.


2. Techstream and a suitable interface cable (optional)



This is not required if you don't want/need to change the VIN number in ECU. The car will start and run fine without matching the vIN in ecu to your car.

Link to Techstream software and info

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35530

you can use a Tactrix cable or an VAG Com or a VCI cable to connect to ECU and use Techstream.

3. A small piece of wire to loop pins 4 and 13 on the Cars OBD port (DLC port)
or if you want to be fancy buy a OBD plug and lop pins 4 and 13



Proceedure to swap in new or used ECU

Make sure cars battery is good and well charged if necessary charge battery well before this procedure then disconnect charger, or replace battery if its suspect.

I'm suspect of most modern switch mode or pulse charging battery chargers (auto shop purchased) being connected during procedures like this or flashing ECU. They tend to introduce electrical noise/spikes into system and may cause problems.

Dealers have specialised battery chargers with filtered/conditioned outputs.

1. Ignition off
2. Remove battery terminal
3. Replace ECU module with the new or used ECU unit from another car
see here for physical replacement procedure http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19590
4. Replace battery terminal
5. Turn ON ignition (full ON position not just accessory position)
6. Use Techstream to enter new vin number on connection screen (its under tab called UTILITY in the Engine ECU screen, setting vin is not necessary to get car to start and run)
7. Turn OFF ignition
8. Loop pins 4 and 13 on OBD port in car (this puts control units in comms mode)
9. Turn ignition to full ON position with working key or for keyless fob in car and two pushes of start button (in park or not pressing clutch) DO NOT TRY TO START car, DO NOT remove FOB from car during the 30 minute period.

To be really safe here make sure everything electrical is off in car radio, fans lights ect have the drivers window down and doors closed. Reach in through window to operate ignition at start and end of 30 minute period. Because when you open door window does the jump/up/down ie electrical load/spikes .

10. Wait at least 30 minutes (the CEL light should flash if loop is on pins 4-13)
11. turn OFF ignition (again reaching through window not opening door)
12. Remove loop on OBD port pins 4 to 13
13. Start car let it run for more than 5 seconds.
14. Enjoy your car.



The new/used ecu can be coded into the security system without the vin number being entered with techstream, but your flashing device and or licencing may not work unless the vin is set in ecu. Or their may be other unknow consequences of not setting VIN number. But i have changed vin in ecu and cars still start and run fine






This procedure can be found in the Toyota/Subaru Service manual around page 4985


Service Manual Download
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12135

Proceedure in Manual
https://techinfo.toyota.com/t3Portal...0Y027X_01_0005






OBD Port layout

So I’m having a problem when I jump the pins the cel doesn’t even try to blink in the loop.
My cars a manual and the new Ecu is also manual. Idk what else to try and would really love any help 🙏🏼

[steve99]

Originally Posted by Aurange

So I’m having a problem when I jump the pins the cel doesn’t even try to blink in the loop.
My cars a manual and the new Ecu is also manual. Idk what else to try and would really love any help 🙏🏼

if CEL doesnt blink with loop on pins 4 to 13 on obd port (ignition must be full ON not jst accessory) then either loop is not connecting or connection to obd port bad or ecu may have problem.


put the old ecu back and see in cel blinks with loop on 4-13 and ignition full on engine stopped