CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Ro_Ja]

Sure, SPL is nice and it's easier to service (swap in a new $40 rod end), but depending on use of the car, weather, environment, and other factors, the cost and longevity could play against you as opposed to a more OEM product better suited for a daily driver. I've been kinda questionable of Whiteline, but that sucks to hear they discontinued that product since there isn't many options for front geometry correction on this car.

[Interflop]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

I would recommend our RCE Yellow springs (20mm drop) or STI Pink springs (15mm). For shocks, Bilstein B6 work really well. The new 2017 PP shocks are pretty good as well for comfort. Get some camber bolts and go have fun. Easy.

- Andrew

Would you recommend this setup over KW V1's? I'm pretty much torn between the simplicity of Bilstein shocks with RCE springs and a set of (what I believe to be) quality coilovers.

This is for my daily driver that sees Northeastern winters with intentions of an occasional autocross a few times a year.

[Clipdat]

What exactly would cause my toe to be so out of whack? I have these rear toe arms: http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...s-brz-wrx.html

The tech who did the alignment told me that "everything was tight" when they checked it. Here is today's alignment:



Attached is the previous alignment (April) I had before today's:

[FirstWinter]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

What exactly would cause my toe to be so out of whack? I have these rear toe arms: http://www.splparts.com/products/spl...s-brz-wrx.html

The tech who did the alignment told me that "everything was tight" when they checked it. Here is today's alignment:



Attached is the previous alignment (April) I had before today's:

Honestly things slip from my experience. Bumpy roads, speed bumps, potholes, etc doesn't help. Just checked my coilovers today and it turned out the ride height adjuster was loose on the driver front. I've had toe slip out in the past as well in the rear.

[NicoFRS]

Hey, so sorry if Im messing up any conversations but I need some help in the basics. I am new to the aftermarket community so may need explanations as to cause and affect of certain mods but also come from an engineering background so not stupid and will understand physics concepts.

I am about to purchase a 2015 scion frs with 42k miles. My goal for this car is to basically make it a mustang killer and then maybe later add flex fuel and reinforced components on e85 and make it a GTR killer lol. Looking for about 300-320 at the wheels on 91 with a kraftwerks/any supercharger (maybe c30) and whatever I can get on e85 (have seen in 400-450 range with built motor)

I was going to start by asking the thread what should be the first steps that I can do easily myself. (swaybars, wheels, tires,etc)

I know before I go forced induction I should do some prep mods to support the added power. I was going to start with wheels and tires and a big break kit, then swaybars, then the supercharger. As of right now I don't want to change suspension if I can get away with it as I want it to be a nice, comfortable daily. I don't want it to be more stiff than it already is. IS THIS SAFE AND OK?

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by NicoFRS

Hey, so sorry if Im messing up any conversations but I need some help in the basics. I am new to the aftermarket community so may need explanations as to cause and affect of certain mods but also come from an engineering background so not stupid and will understand physics concepts.

I am about to purchase a 2015 scion frs with 42k miles. My goal for this car is to basically make it a mustang killer and then maybe later add flex fuel and reinforced components on e85 and make it a GTR killer lol. Looking for about 300-320 at the wheels on 91 with a kraftwerks/any supercharger (maybe c30) and whatever I can get on e85 (have seen in 400-450 range with built motor)

I was going to start by asking the thread what should be the first steps that I can do easily myself. (swaybars, wheels, tires,etc)

I know before I go forced induction I should do some prep mods to support the added power. I was going to start with wheels and tires and a big break kit, then swaybars, then the supercharger. As of right now I don't want to change suspension if I can get away with it as I want it to be a nice, comfortable daily. I don't want it to be more stiff than it already is. IS THIS SAFE AND OK?

Most important considerations are application (street/track/auto-x) and tire choice (which could be down to rules if we're talking competition). Those two things will help you make the right decision on suspension. Spring rates should be chosen with tire compound in mind. We can help you spec out a complete system if you like, or an upgrade path.

Another consideration is driving experience. If you're new to the track, maybe start with a mostly stock car before jumping into a 400 hp built motor monster.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Interflop

Would you recommend this setup over KW V1's? I'm pretty much torn between the simplicity of Bilstein shocks with RCE springs and a set of (what I believe to be) quality coilovers.

This is for my daily driver that sees Northeastern winters with intentions of an occasional autocross a few times a year.

I don't think you could go wrong either way. I like the RCE + Bilstein B6 combo a lot...that would be my choice for a daily driver that's fun/fast/simple/reliable (and actually will be on my personal car once I have some free time).

- Andrew

[Icecreamtruk]

Originally Posted by Clipdat

What exactly would cause my toe to be so out of whack?

From my own experience and lots of shitty roads (montréal) and lots of track abuse on really bumpy tracks, I have never had my alignment change (SPC rear, camber plates and bolts up front) because of it. But I did have 0.25 toe-out in the rear driver side after wall-tapping on a turn before entering a walled straight. The hit was enough to scratch the bumper, scratch the wheel, and offset the alignment but I kept on going. Interestingly, I got better times with the toe-out on that side, the car wanted to rotate so much when turning right it was very challenging to drive (in a good way tho, in a fun way).

[alex.s]

no more understeer but i'm just eating through my front tire shoulders now...



how much more camber do i need? should i just get camber pillow plate adjuster thing-a-ma-bobs?

maybe its a tire pressure thing? rears were 33 cold which wound up at about 40 warm... fronts were 35 and were also right at about 40-41 warm... i run cool down laps and pit far away though so they're probably 2 or 3 psi higher when hot... i didn't have a pump and only had 3 sessions so i didnt feel like playing with tire pressure...


here's the rear:

[churchx]

Even if you don't have pump, it's worth to check pressures at stop at some fuel station prior track, as w/o pump it's always simpler to let out excess air, and to bring along gauge (even some cheap may do), as when tires heat up on track, very often pressures might be outside optimum. Playing with pressures also is cheap way to adjust grip bias.
As for alignment .. what model/width of tires currently on? What alignment numbers you have now? What parts for adjustment you have now? Do you care more about track use or it's just occasional thing and mostly about daily driving?

[Racecomp Engineering]

More roll resistance would help.

- Andrew

[JSube]

Need some pro help here. I have a MY17 BRZ with performance pkg and really like the Sachs dampers on the car; it's a nice ride on the street and a ton of fun on track. But I wanted to just add some front camber and nothing else for this year, so my shop suggested & installed Vorshlag plates, which started rattling after the first track day. It bothered me enough on the street my shop sent them back to Vorshlag and the bearings were replaced. They're going back on the car today.
I don't have much confidence anything with be different this time but I'll have 5-7 more days on-track this season, so I guess I''ll be finding out.
My question, finally, is can I get -2.5 to 3° camber with lower front suspension adjustments with my OEM upper mounts? From the parts I've seen, that will cost twice as much or more than camber plates. My hesitation in not wanting to bite the bullet and buy coilovers is not wanting to redesign the car's suspension-it's so lively and responsive and I love the predictable movement from the back of the car. And, since coils use camber plates with bearings, wouldn't I likely end up rattling that route anyway? I should add that I have a pretty negative opinion of camber/crash bolts- from what I've heard from my shop and others is they seem prone to failure or at least movement, perhaps right when you need them the most.

[churchx]

On stock everything but raceseng camplates IIRC i was able to dial in some -2.3 or -2.4, and then it started to rub a bit inside of wheel arch. So maybe worth also getting some cambolts (they are cheap) for lower mount, for some of that camber. Probably ~ -1.5 with one cambolt set, and upto -2.2 to -2.3 with cambolts in both holes.
As for vorschlag camplate rattling .. were top nuts properly tightened?

[alex.s]

Originally Posted by churchx

As for alignment .. what model/width of tires currently on? What alignment numbers you have now? What parts for adjustment you have now? Do you care more about track use or it's just occasional thing and mostly about daily driving?

Its at about -1.8* camber and no toe in front. Stock rear. It's the stock Michelin primacy. 215 width. I live across the street from work in downtown and walk everywhere, so the car mostly is driven on track and driving to and from the track...

I don't want to just throw parts at the problem if it's something I'm doing to the tires and can fix as a driver. Sorta the whole reason why I want the Prius tires... Easier to hit grip limits means it's easier to learn from.

With that in mind, I think I'm overheating the poor tires. All the cooling mods have made it so I can push the car for an entire session. For the first 15 or so minutes they are fine, but at the end they really lose grip. I continue in this situation again for the reasons above, but I'm wondering if going hard when they're going off is what is taking the big chunks out of the shoulder? The strange part is that when the tires are off like that and I start sliding around more, my lap times are actually lower... Maybe I have it backwards and I'm increasing the laptimes and that's making me slide more... I Donno at this point I'm just saying nonsense... I need to read more

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