Unichip map downloads and tuning

[Knickstape]

Originally Posted by tbertran

Ugh... I was pushing the wrong end of the tab. No wonder that thing would not move!
Ok... so I plugged everything, tried to start the car and... it didn't. It's cranking up fine but the engine never kicks in.
Verified the connections, all seemed good.

I put it back to stock and it started fine but now I have a CEL with the following 2 codes:
P0103 (Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor "A" Circuit High)
P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit)

Any idea?

I know my car did the same thing after I reinstalled it, threw a code and everything. Turned out I had the cps plug backwards like a fool cause it was such a bitch to install switched it and it started fine

[tbertran]

Holy shit... I think I did the same thing. I plugged everything back in paying extra attention to the CPS plug and it started fine.
In our defense, that plug really is a bitch and the connector fits both ways.
Thanks!

[irvin1958]

Originally Posted by xcelir8brz

Okay. Being in Florida eliminates A LOT of the variables. Do this then. Get all your gas out of the tank. It sounds like it could be bad gas. It happens. Go to shell and get 91/93. Yeah, spend the extra money. It makes a HUGE difference IMO especially with the Unichip. Once you get new gas, clear the CELS - stop at autozone, they'll do it for free. Drive around, and see. Still have problems. Remap 0 and 1. It's really easy to do so, and will help. I didn't see what mods you've done either.

It was in th eprevious post but here it is again:Greddy CAI, Motive Hi-Flow Cat, Perrin Resonated exhaust.
Thanks for your help!

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by tbertran

First installer here.
Does anybody have any trick as to how to remove that bloody CPS plug... It's jammed in the connector very tight. My fat hands are not winning this one...

pliers and screwdrivers and such. i managed to push down the clip with my fingers and just leverage pliers to push out the plug

[l0aded]

Noticed something interesting yesterday when I brought my car in for oil change and a new HPFP. After I took off the Unichip the chirps went WILD, like ridiculously loud lol. Hopefully the new pump fixes it but just wanted to let you guys know.

[l0aded]

Sorry there are too many posts in this thread now but are there any dynos with before/after Unichip? I haven't checked in a few months.

Also for socal people, what maps are you running? 89 ones?

[BuBlake]

Originally Posted by Unichip Jack

BuBlake...


When we log in, we see the maps... which one(s) are you specifically looking for?


Cheers

I'm looking for the FA20club CAI maps.... They're not in there for me!

Specifically, I want the FA20club CAI Headers+catback, fuel out/timing standard map... Think you could send it to me in a PM or something? Thanks!

[Unichip Jack]

BuBlake... PM sent.


Cheers

[Jvalich]

Would someone be kind enough to explain to me what fuel +/- Timing+/- is and what effect they have? When should I try or not try them?

I apologize for the question as I'm sure it has been answered somewhere in these 49 pages... just going cross-eyed trying to find an explanation.

Thanks in advance.

[FRSGeek]

Fuel In/F+ means there is more fuel, and Fuel Out/F- means less fuel.
Timing In/T+ means there is more timing added and Timing Out/T- means there is less timing added.

[Jvalich]

Originally Posted by FRSGeek

Fuel In/F+ means there is more fuel, and Fuel Out/F- means less fuel.
Timing In/T+ means there is more timing added and Timing Out/T- means there is less timing added.

Are there any conditions which occur which would prompt me to try either? I'm currently using the All Drop in, cutback with standard fuel & timing. This is the tune that was already on the unit i purchased from another member here. Is trying any of the +/- combinations going to hurt? I would hate to run the motor too lean or rich.

[6speed_Sam]

Right now I'm using Fuel+ Timing+ since it's colder out.. with good results. The warmer weather I use standard fueling.

[Unichip Jack]

You can run any of the without worrying about being "too rich" or "too lean" for safety. The variances between maps are pretty small and really only affect optimum performance.


Start with the Standard/Standard maps ((~,~)) and get a baseline. Then try a Fuel - and see how the car feels. If it's not as strong or if the open loop AFR is not as good (for those using a wideband for tweaking), try the Fuel + and again compare it to the ~,~ baseline. Use whichever is closer to ideal for your car. Then try varying the timing using the same concept.


Regardless of the maps you settle on, you'll be in an acceptable "safety" range as far as longevity is concerned.


Remember the factory computer is constantly adapting for varying conditions. What you're tweaking is your specific car pretty much independent of what the weather does. Fuels do change from winter to summer in some parts of the country so you may find as the ethanol content changes, you'll want to vary the maps... but that's because of the fuel not the weather.


Cheers

[SKELLINGTON]

Would there be any interest in doing some tuning for the Phantom Electric Supercharger with the Unichip? Or would the Unichip not be able to handle the WOT function of the charger?