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Old 07-24-2012, 05:43 PM   #15
TouchMyHonda
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy!
OH RIGHTTTTTT
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by sportsguy83 View Post
Extremely well written DIY! I installed it last week and did not oil the bolt ..( no instructions with my package), but its all good. I won't be taking it out any time soon.
I doubt you needed to oil it anyways since it's practically a brand new engine but it's probably for peace of mind. How are you liking the new pulley?

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Originally Posted by mediumbrown View Post
why not leave the tension on the belt while you break the bolt loose, once loose then you can adjust the tensioner... this should help keep the crank from moving....

or use the impact to zing it off lol
I don't know about leaving the tension on when i break the bolt loose, but it's already stiff with it in 6th gear. Yes an impact gun is easier but a breaker bar would be easier to get access to for the rest of us without a nice gun and compressor.
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Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
As a Toyota Tech i have to say this is one of the best DIY write ups great job with helping other. I guess that is why we are all apart of this club.

thanks! I hope it really helps people avoid mishaps and share any tips and criticisms I may have left out!

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Originally Posted by ATL BRZ View Post
Did you really have to quote the entire diy writeup to say thanks?? Lol jeez I am also very thankful to the OP. My pulley is waiting to go on my BRZ when I take delivery next week! I cant wait!
haha he can always re-edit and remove the img /img tags. congrats on your brz! drive it stock and maybe break it in before you install the pulley?

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Originally Posted by kwood9000 View Post
Great DIY write-up...thanks!
you're welcome!

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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but....

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the way torque works is it is not additive. you just push until you hear a click. The whole initial 33lbs part and note the 45 degree turn I think applies to older worn engines. The bolt is practically new I don't think you need to worry about replacing it unless you fubar'd it. maybe someone can clear it up for us?

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Originally Posted by Vino View Post
NIce write up thanks to the op
thanks, I will clean it up a bit and add missing pictures and steps when I do some local pulley installs for whoever needs them.

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Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.
try re-editing it and removing everything I wrote

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Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
So what kind of difference are you seeing with this pully. Awesome write up.
So far the first three gears feel... "peppy" it certainly feels more nimble and quicker to get me to 5k-7.4k range. I'll have to drive more spirited. I've never hoped for more red lights before.. lol

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Originally Posted by driftartist View Post
is the perrin pulley balanced for the car? the oem balancer should be perfectly balance and i was curious if this new one would throw it off at all. anyone know by chance?
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Originally Posted by kwood9000 View Post
From what someone posted in another thread, the Perrin crank pulley is not balanced. However, no one has mentioned any problems with it, yet.
I haven't heard of anyone having catastrophic damages done on the forums.. and I believe Perrin to be highly regarded by the Nasioc community. Yes there will be those .01% failure rates but it's the risk we take for the enjoyment of our cars!

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Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
I have a feeling this probably didn't give you close to 27whp LOL
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
You need a lightweight flyweight AND the pulley, dummy!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TouchMyHonda View Post
OH RIGHTTTTTT
LOL *cough* keep it clean guys. don't wanna start a new fresh thread now...
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Old 07-24-2012, 08:11 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Enigmus View Post
I haven't heard of anyone having catastrophic damages done on the forums.. and I believe Perrin to be highly regarded by the Nasioc community. Yes there will be those .01% failure rates but it's the risk we take for the enjoyment of our cars!
Regarding "balance" of the crank pulley: most engine configurations vibrate to hell, in order to lessen this manufacturers often have a dual purpose crank pulley. That is, the crank pulley also acts as a harmonic dampener to reduce the vibrations inherent to the engine design. Recall, I said most engine designs have vibrations; the horizontal/opposed-piston/flat engine does NOT. Therefore, the pulley doesn't need to act as a harmonic dampener. When queried about this in the early 2000s, SOA stated that the pulley was NOT a harmonic dampener. So people should stop talking about balance.

Issues seen with crank pulleys in Subaru applications typically manifest as misfires or ghost misfires/CELs, usually when used in conjunction with lightweight flywheels.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:52 PM   #18
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Wow, compared to my friend's Si that we'll be changing that crank pulley on, this is a breeze! Thanks for the write up!
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83 View Post
Sorry bro didn't realise I did that.

lol... edit your post where you quoted the WHHOLE thing.. and remove the images so this is readable.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:59 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
When queried about this in the early 2000s, SOA stated that the pulley was NOT a harmonic dampener. So people should stop talking about balance.
Wrong... A pulley can still be unbalanced without the shape of the material being the cause. Think of the reason you get a wheel balanced when you change tyres - it's to make sure the whole wheel is balanced around the central axis. A poorly balanced wheel can shudder and vibrate while driving, it can also reduce the life of things like wheel bearings and suspension bushes as a result... However, due to the relatively small inertia of the pulley compared to the crank, and the fact that the pulley is probably not far out of balance in the first place, it shouldn't matter.

As for the adding oil to the thread of the crank bolt, also a bad idea.. Adding oil modifies the friction of the threads, meaning you overtorque the bolt (as with the oil you have to tighten the bolt more until the same torque registers on the torque wrench). You should not add oil unless it was stated in the install instructions.

Finally, in general, when a bolt is told to be torqued to a certain torque spec, and then turned through another angle, it is generally not good to reuse that bolt. The extra turn usually causes the bolt to undergo plastic deformation - ie. the bolt stretches (as with head studs/bolts), which has usually been done when the pulley was first installed from factory. This will probably not matter either.. I'm sure Perrin would have done their research when they came up with the instructions.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:00 AM   #21
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:10 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snaps View Post
You should not add oil unless it was stated in the install instructions.
Perrin's instructions call for oiling it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:49 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snaps View Post
Wrong... A pulley can still be unbalanced without the shape of the material being the cause. Think of the reason you get a wheel balanced when you change tyres - it's to make sure the whole wheel is balanced around the central axis. A poorly balanced wheel can shudder and vibrate while driving, it can also reduce the life of things like wheel bearings and suspension bushes as a result... However, due to the relatively small inertia of the pulley compared to the crank, and the fact that the pulley is probably not far out of balance in the first place, it shouldn't matter.
Let me amend my statement: people should stop talking about crank pulley balance. Nearly every time a person uses crank pulley and balance in the same sentence they are referring to a harmonic dampener, not to the actual balance around the central axis.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:10 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by sportsguy83 View Post
Perrin's instructions call for oiling it.
Then we have no problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
Let me amend my statement: people should stop talking about crank pulley balance. Nearly every time a person uses crank pulley and balance in the same sentence they are referring to a harmonic dampener, not to the actual balance around the central axis.
It was really just to clear it up for anyone unsure about this kind of stuff. I didn't mean to come off as aggressive, if I did - I'm only trying to make sure noone does any damage to themselves or their brand new car! I know there are a lot of people on these forums that have very little mechanical knowledge or experience, and so making sure everyone is using correct terminology, and that everything is explained well (as with this DIY), along with giving good information, is important to keep everyone safe...
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:40 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jayde View Post
Wow, compared to my friend's Si that we'll be changing that crank pulley on, this is a breeze! Thanks for the write up!
Ugh, don't remind me. The crank, alternator, and idler pulleys were royal pains. That crank bolt was FIERCE, I think I suffered some permanent hearing damage from hearing that damn thing pop off. I think I tried putting it in 6th on the Si and didn't have any better luck. I do know I ended up with a cat-claw in the flywheel to get it to bust.

I can imagine it already, "hey man, want to help me do the crank pulley in THIS car?" "Oh no, not again..." "No, really, it's a lot easier I promise!"
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:58 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by RAN94A View Post
lol... edit your post where you quoted the WHHOLE thing.. and remove the images so this is readable.
done

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Old 07-25-2012, 04:11 AM   #27
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What i use at work is a chain wrench and you can find them at your local parts store (for any one having problems taking the crank bolt off)

Recommend placing a old belt or rubber hose around the journals of the pulley to protect it from damage.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:40 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by civicdrivr View Post
I saw in the Perrin instructions that it should be torqued to the same value you posted, however the manual says 14.5lbs-ft , then tighten an additional 90*. Anyone know which to go with? I assume turning it an additional 90* brings the force to nearly the same amount, but....

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I suspect they are virtually equivalent. Or at least I hope so. Not all torque wrenches go up to 90 lbs-ft. For instance the one I have only goes to 80 lbs-ft. So what I'm going to do is dial it in to 14.5 lbs-ft and then do another 90 degree turn as the manual states. I will be doing this install sometime this week. I'll post if I have issues.
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