ACE Header/Overpipe, and STI Engine Mounts: Looking for Tips

[SuperTom]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

tl;dr version

- take off metal under pan
- take off paper pan
- unbolt passenger side engine mount
- remove stock header
- lift engine gently
- remove overpipe
- put ace over pipe where stock overpipe was, but do not tighten down

- Install new Engine mount passenger side
- drop engine back down and torque Passenger engine mount

- Lift Driver side, Install mount
- drop engine back down and torque Driver engine mount
- put on ace header
- torque header to engine
- bolt ace merge overpipe to header
- bolt ace merge overpipe to front pie
- check torque
- flash tune
- revise tune
- check torque on all hardware after a few heat cycles. Re-check until a subsequent recheck yields no additional torque being needed.

O2 sensors left out to do at your convenience.

Somewhere in between that he has to do the engine mounts I Put in red where I think

[86TOYO2k17]

@Stang70Fastback

I believe the sti mounts come with pretty simple instructions. Took off strut braces and air box (again idk if needed but that’s what I did just to be safe) then I jacked the engine up about 3” from the oil pan (just enough to get mounts out and in) did both mounts same time (not one side at a time) was pretty quick and easy. Oil pan is pretty robust and is only supporting about half the weight of the engine. don’t have the jack on the pan holding the entire weight of the car obviously.

Also did whiteline trans mount insert.(30$) I removed the brace and the middle bolt then lubed insert up and it slid right in didn’t have to actually follow the instructions and remove the whole thing. Both where done same time in about 2h. (I’m also notoriously slow first time I do something) but I did have a lift.

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

I believe the sti mounts come with pretty simple instructions. Took off strut braces and air box (again idk if needed but that’s what I did just to be safe) then I jacked the engine up about 3” from the oil pan (just enough to get mounts out and in) did both mounts same time (not one side at a time) was pretty quick and easy. Oil pan is pretty robust and is only supporting about half the weight of the engine. don’t have the jack on the pan holding the entire weight of the car obviously.

Well I received my STI mounts today and they came with no instructions at all. Only a warning telling me that, "THESE PARTS HAVE NO WARRANTY, AND YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN. ALSO YOUR CAR PROBABLY ISN'T STREET LEGAL NOW AND YOU WILL LIKELY DIE."

I'm paraphrasing, but only a little bit.

[tehShirt]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Well I received my STI mounts today and they came with no instructions at all. Only a warning telling me that, "THESE PARTS HAVE NO WARRANTY, AND YOU ARE ON YOUR OWN. ALSO YOUR CAR PROBABLY ISN'T STREET LEGAL NOW AND YOU WILL LIKELY DIE."

I'm paraphrasing, but only a little bit.

STI mount owner here, can confirm I'm dead. You'll enjoy them though.


I used a block of wood between the jack and oil pan and lifted the engine. No issues after 15k miles. Did you get the transmission mount too?

[bhmax]

It’s been a couple of years for me, but both Ace header and STI mount installations were fairly straightforward for me from what I remember. I did buy metal lock nuts for the header to engine studs since not all are easily torqued.

[eastendraceshop]

Originally Posted by tehShirt

STI mount owner here, can confirm I'm dead. You'll enjoy them though.

LOL, but was it worth it?

[bhmax]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F161846023272

Something like these

[bhmax]

Also, I had the engine code pop up for the coil packs even while stock with only 15k miles on my ‘13 while tracking. I took the opportunity while jacking the engine to wrap the coils with gold tape, swap from side to side, and apply a bunch of dielectric grease. That and the ceramic coated Ace have so far kept me code free for quite a few track days and another 15k+ miles. *knocks on wood*

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by bhmax

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F161846023272

Something like these

Thanks for the link! I'm actually going to use the lock washers someone else linked to earlier in this thread, though. Already ordered a bunch.

Originally Posted by bhmax

Also, I had the engine code pop up for the coil packs even while stock with only 15k miles on my ‘13 while tracking. I took the opportunity while jacking the engine to wrap the coils with gold tape, swap from side to side, and apply a bunch of dielectric grease. That and the ceramic coated Ace have so far kept me code free for quite a few track days and another 15k+ miles. *knocks on wood*

Hopefully shouldn't be an issue for me. I got the CSG Ceramic Coating, so the header is taken care of, and I have a '15 with the revised packs/harnesses. Haven't had any issues yet!

[e_lunatic]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Thanks for the link! I'm actually going to use the lock washers someone else linked to earlier in this thread, though. Already ordered a bunch.



Hopefully shouldn't be an issue for me. I got the CSG Ceramic Coating, so the header is taken care of, and I have a '15 with the revised packs/harnesses. Haven't had any issues yet!

I got mine coated and also wrapped them just in case. never hurts to have extra protecting

[Stang70Fastback]

Well thanks again for the tips everyone. I went to do the install this morning, but upon dropping the skid plate, I discovered an oil leak coating the bottom of the driver's side of the engine. Appears to be a timing cover leak. So buttoned it back up and took it to the dealership, where I was quoted $3200 for a "full reseal" of the engine since supposedly they also found a seeping head gasket on that side. Even having them do just the timing cover was going to be $2800, so I took the car back, and am currently trying to figure out the best course of action, since I'm not inclined to do that kind of work myself at the moment.

So... this install is on hold until I figure this out

[kev0]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Well thanks again for the tips everyone. I went to do the install this morning, but upon dropping the skid plate, I discovered an oil leak coating the bottom of the driver's side of the engine. Appears to be a timing cover leak. So buttoned it back up and took it to the dealership, where I was quoted $3200 for a "full reseal" of the engine since supposedly they also found a seeping head gasket on that side. Even having them do just the timing cover was going to be $2800, so I took the car back, and am currently trying to figure out the best course of action, since I'm not inclined to do that kind of work myself at the moment.

So... this install is on hold until I figure this out

Aw, sorry to hear. I'm in the Illinois area as well. I have a 2014, so that's getting quite old. I'll dread the day that my gaskets will start leaking.. Let me know which shop you end up going to!

[Timmy_Jones]

Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback

Well thanks again for the tips everyone. I went to do the install this morning, but upon dropping the skid plate, I discovered an oil leak coating the bottom of the driver's side of the engine. Appears to be a timing cover leak. So buttoned it back up and took it to the dealership, where I was quoted $3200 for a "full reseal" of the engine since supposedly they also found a seeping head gasket on that side. Even having them do just the timing cover was going to be $2800, so I took the car back, and am currently trying to figure out the best course of action, since I'm not inclined to do that kind of work myself at the moment.

So... this install is on hold until I figure this out

Do NOT have the dealer do the work (you did the right thing taking the car back). There has to be a local subaru buff near you (there are a bunch near me) where they can do the work and probably throw your header/mounts in at the same time. Shop around a bit. Dont let this deter you!

[Stang70Fastback]

Originally Posted by Timmy_Jones

Do NOT have the dealer do the work (you did the right thing taking the car back). There has to be a local subaru buff near you (there are a bunch near me) where they can do the work and probably throw your header/mounts in at the same time. Shop around a bit. Dont let this deter you!

I've already reached out to two local Subaru/BRZ centric performance shops and asked exactly that. I'll be getting quotes tomorrow, but the preliminary answers are I can pay them a fraction what the dealership wanted and get the timing cover resealed, AND all the parts installed. I usually like to do things myself, but I'm sure the exhaust is rusted to hell, so having a shop do it might be beneficial. I already have the O2 sensors installed in the new header, so it would be a quick part swap.

Assuming I have them install the parts, do you guys think it's safer to gently drive the car home on the factory tune, or flash the preliminary Delicious tune in their parking lot and drive home on that? I'm thinking driving gently home on the factory tune shouldn't cause any major issues...