Direct Injector Failure Poll

[ap5512]

Is the DI issue covered via powertrain warranty (60K miles) or the basic one (36K)?...I am thinking the powertrain but correct me if I'm wrong..

[trippinbillies40]

My car started exhibiting this problem after an autocross this past Sunday. Cliff notes:

-Bought the car used with 2500 miles on it, at 39k now
-It's seen 7 track days, and lots of autocrosses
-Was stock powertrain until about 3 weeks ago when I built up fr STX, now it has an intake, header, exhaust, and tune.

Symptoms are limited to when the car is fully warmed up, heavy load acceleration from 2500-3500 RPM or so. Found another thread with someone who described this exact scenario and his Cyl 1 seal was completely gone.

Took my car to the dealership, they denied warranty work as expected because of the tune and aftermarket parts. They also refused to diagnose the problem because there is no CEL present.

The other member with my noise posted a video:

That is exactly what my car sounds like, and it's seen plenty of track time, so I'm confident enough to tell Toyota to replace the DI seals without diagnosing it. It's an $850 gamble on my part.

Here's the interesting part: They said they're going to use TRD high pressure seals. Anyone else heard of this? I can try and get the part number, haven't found it online yet.

Should get my car back tomorrow. I'll keep everyone posted.

[trippinbillies40]

Quick update. After a week of "it'll be done tomorrow", finally got the car back today. Total cost of $830. Cylinder 1 injector seal was completely gone.

[Rampage]

Originally Posted by trippinbillies40

Here's the interesting part: They said they're going to use TRD high pressure seals. Anyone else heard of this? I can try and get the part number, haven't found it online yet.

Should get my car back tomorrow. I'll keep everyone posted.

Anything to add on this?

[trippinbillies40]

Originally Posted by Rampage

Anything to add on this?

Unfortunately not really. I looked up the part numbers and nothing says "TRD" from what I can find. Let the invoice at work. I'll post part numbers tomorrow. The whole ordeal with the dealership was a nightmare and I just wanted to get my car back and get out of there. Sorry

[LLYNCES]

My car was experiencing the hard shifting issue found in the AT (There is a TSB for it) which basically made the car not rev match correctly and idle properly (ecu related) I ended up getting a CEL on this car prior to my appointment date to get the ECU fixed and barely made it to the dealer with the car (limp mode)

Turns out two direct injector seals failed on my car and they said it was a seperate issue - to me it seems a more likely that the AT hardshifting problem caused this as it seems this DI failure is caused by a bad factory tune and shifting at high rpms.

Toyota is fixing this under warranty, going take around a week. Not happy about this as you think the 2015 models would not have this problem.

[pepe]

you think a header uel catted can damage the injectors?

[MagicMexican]

Hey guys, I just picked up a 2013 BRZ with 41,000 miles on it. I've had the car for 2 weeks and not noticed anything strange, but I've just babied it so far. It drives great, but now that I joined this site and did some reading, I am starting to get paranoid. I don't know the exact build date, but the carfax I was given shows the first owner bought it in 7/12 so that makes me at risk for having this issue, correct?
The carfax shows plenty of regular maintenance, but nothing about an ECU reflash or seal replacement. This is the first car I've ever financed and had warranty on, so I'm not 100% sure how everything works. Should I go to the dealership and just say 'Hey, I'd like you guys to check the ECU and tell me what version of software it has?' or should I just get a tactrix cable and flash it myself? Will that affect the warranty? I'm supposed to have a 7 yr, 100k mile warranty.
Basically, I'd like to be sure that my car is not at risk but I'd also not like to get jerked around by the dealer and I'd like to know exactly what to say/do to make sure my car's protected.

[radroach]

@MagicMexican you'd want to check the TSB to see if your car's vin falls in that range.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by MagicMexican

Hey guys, I just picked up a 2013 BRZ with 41,000 miles on it. I've had the car for 2 weeks and not noticed anything strange, but I've just babied it so far. It drives great, but now that I joined this site and did some reading, I am starting to get paranoid. I don't know the exact build date, but the carfax I was given shows the first owner bought it in 7/12 so that makes me at risk for having this issue, correct?
The carfax shows plenty of regular maintenance, but nothing about an ECU reflash or seal replacement. This is the first car I've ever financed and had warranty on, so I'm not 100% sure how everything works. Should I go to the dealership and just say 'Hey, I'd like you guys to check the ECU and tell me what version of software it has?' or should I just get a tactrix cable and flash it myself? Will that affect the warranty? I'm supposed to have a 7 yr, 100k mile warranty.
Basically, I'd like to be sure that my car is not at risk but I'd also not like to get jerked around by the dealer and I'd like to know exactly what to say/do to make sure my car's protected.

Their is TSB out for dealers to flash cars prior to B01C/D calibration to that ECU calibration generally cars built prior to late 2013


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1386706237


and


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1395947828


just complain of rough idle and idle dips when a/c cut in/out

[steve99]

Originally Posted by pepe

you think a header uel catted can damage the injectors?

no its the poor factory tune on low quality petrol causing excessive knock on high rpm shifts.


http://www.datazap.me/u/steve99/sout...=1477440000000


notice IAM=0.2 and still getting over -3 degrees knock correction at high rpm shifts and high load, the knock kills the DI seals

[MagicMexican]

Originally Posted by steve99

Their is TSB out for dealers to flash cars prior to B01C/D calibration to that ECU calibration generally cars built prior to late 2013


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1386706237


and


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...1&d=1395947828


just complain of rough idle and idle dips when a/c cut in/out

Thanks! I'll print those out and take them with me. I'll mention rough idle but idk how believable a/c would be since it's January and I'm in Colorado... but we'll see. I'm going back there this weekend. The dealer is unfortunately an hour and a half drive away.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by MagicMexican

Basically, I'd like to be sure that my car is not at risk but I'd also not like to get jerked around by the dealer and I'd like to know exactly what to say/do to make sure my car's protected.

Manufacturing date is on the sticker in the door jam, but I believe all 2012 build dates are at risk, it may have already been re-flashed though. I believe the change came out approximately in the Spring of 2013, May onwards to be safe.

Originally Posted by MagicMexican

Thanks! I'll print those out and take them with me. I'll mention rough idle but idk how believable a/c would be since it's January and I'm in Colorado... but we'll see. I'm going back there this weekend. The dealer is unfortunately an hour and a half drive away.

Defrost uses air conditioning to dehumidify the interior, I bet you're using the A/C a lot actually given that it's winter and you're in a snowy climate.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Defrost uses air conditioning to dehumidify the interior, I bet you're using the A/C a lot actually given that it's winter and you're in a snowy climate.

This^ My AC kicks in about three times as often when in defrost /heat mode than it does in actually cooling the car. It only runs for short bursts to dry the air opposed to longer periods required to actually cool it. This results in a much more frequent impact on the idle. First car I have had where you can't turn the function off when heating so it took some getting used to. Don't even notice it anymore.