DIY 5x100 to 5x114.3 Front Hubs

[UYCR]

*Before I begin, I'd like to say that this is a DO IT YOURSELF (DIY) guide. That said, I am in no way responsible for any scratches, marks, or other damage to you or your vehicle in any way whatsoever. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. *
This is my first DIY write up so feel free to ask questions about things I might have missed. This write up is for replacing the stock 5x100 front hubs with aftermarket 5x114.3 hubs. This is practically a plug and play for those with big brake kits. I have a Series Yellow which came equipped with the Performance Package Brembo brakes, so I can only truly confirm that it will be an easy swap with these. Unfortunately for those that do not have any BBK, the OEM rotor hat is too small to fit over the 5x114.3 hubs and will require an upgrade in order to be able to install these (make sure to maintain proper brake bias if upgrading to a BBK). The hubs are from Parts Shop Max (https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...ct-description) and they have an outer diameter of 137 mm (approx. 5.4 in.) and the PP brake rotor hats have an internal diameter of approximately 147 mm (approx. 5.8 in.) allowing them to fit over the new hubs without any issues. I got them because I was having some rubbing at full lock due to being wide body I have 17x9 +10 wheels with 20mm 5x100 to 5x114.3 adapters which put me at an effective offset of -10.
Special thanks to Tommy from Parts Shop Max who helped me out with the hub dimensions so that I could check if they would fit before purchasing them and with any other doubts I had about the process.
Tools used and torque values for reassembly in applicable cases:
*Use appropriate personal safety equipment to prevent any injuries.*
1/4 in. Drive
1. Ratchet
2. 10mm
3. 12mm
3/8 in. Drive
Ratchet
Torque Wrench
3 in. Extension
10mm - 5.5 ft-lb
12mm - 24 ft-lb
14mm - 48 ft-lb
19mm - 59 ft-lb
1/2 in. Drive
Breaker Bar
Ratchet
Torque Wrench
3 in. Extension
14mm
19mm - 59 ft-lb
13/16 in. - 89 ft-lb
3/4 in.



Other:
Hamer
Locktite

Wire brush and/or small file Drill press
Clamps (Size as needed)
Wooden blocks (4 in. x 2 in. or as needed depending on individual configuration)
1/32 in. drill bit
1/2 in. drill bit

(I started with the driver side (left) so all the images are according to that.)
1. Begin by jacking up your vehicle. This can be done in various ways so chose your preferred method, and remember, safety first.
2. Loosen lugs for the front wheel. I have aftermarket McGard two-piece spline lug nuts so I used the 1/2 in. drive breaker bar with the 3 in. extension and a 13/16 in. socket that fits over the adapter socket for the splines and safety lug nuts. Then remove them by hand. (You may need to use a ratchet if removing the lug nuts by hand is troublesome.) I used the case of my torque wrench pinched with the seat to depress the brakes and allow me to loosen the nuts without the tire spinning.
2a. For the adapters I use the 1/2 in. drive breaker bar with the 3 in. extension and a 3/4 in. socket to loosen the nuts on the adapter. I then remove them by hand. (You may need to use a ratchet if removing the lug nuts by hand is troublesome.) I again used the case of my torque wrench pinched with the seat to keep the brakes depressed and allow me to loosen the nuts without the rotor spinning and removed the case afterwards.
3. Turn the steering wheel to the side being worked at to point the caliper outwards from the wheel well.

4. Remove the brake line hanger screw using the 1/4 in. drive ratchet with a 12 mm socket. This is done to allow the caliper to be set down on the floor in the next steps and prevent it from hanging off the brake line.

5. Loosen the two (2) caliper bracket bolts using the 1/2 in. drive breaker bar with the 19 mm socket. Then remove them by hand (Use the 3/8 in. drive ratchet with the 19 mm socket if necessary). *1/2 in. drive ratchet is too large and will interfere when removing the top caliper bracket bolt with another bolt (red circle) when removing. Even when using the 3/8 in. drive ratchet there is a point where interference will occur and the ratchet needs to be removed to continue unscrewing by hand.*


6. Set the caliper down on a block of wood or a towel to prevent any unwanted scratches or chips to the paint. If the vehicle is raised to a point where the caliper is tugging or hanging off the brake line, look for an alternative that best suits your situation and that prevents the caliper from tugging or hanging off the brake line.
7. Remove the brake disc from the hub. For those with Performance Package Brembo brakes, the brake line hanger bolt can be screwed into the small holes in the rotor hat and used to help separate the brake disc from the hub.

8. Remove the speed sensor bolt using the 1/4 in. drive ratchet with a 10 mm socket and pull it out by grabbing onto the sensor’s plastic casing. Do not rotate the sensor as it has plastic tabs that help orient it and do not pull on the cable to prevent any damage to it. (I placed the socket on the bolt to help visualize where it is)

9. Remove the four (4) hub bolts using the 3/8 in. drive ratchet with a 14 mm socket. (Use the 1/2 in. drive breaker bar with a 14 mm socket if necessary to loosen the bolts.)


10. Remove the factory 5x100 hub. Use the hammer to gently nudge it if it gets stuck when pulling it out.

11. Remove any excess dirt and rust from the factory hub and rotor hat to make assembly and disassembly smoother for the next steps.
12. Assemble the factory hub and rotor.
13. Place the provided template on the rotor using the studs as guides.

14. Adjust the drill press to allow the assembly to fit. I did not have a punch that would fit through the guide holes for the 5x114.3 pattern in the template so I created pilot holes with the 1/16 in. drill bit.
15. Use wooden blocks to slightly elevate the hub and rotor assembly while keeping it level. This will make the assembly more stable since it will not allow it to pivot on the hub
16. Install the 1/16 in. drill bit in the drill press.
17. Align one of the guide holes with the 1/16 in. drill bit
18. Clamp the assembly down to prevent it from moving. If using metal clamps place a thin piece of wood or card board between the clamp and the rotor to prevent metal to metal contact and damage to the rotor.
19. Using the 1/16 in. drill bit, drill through the guide hole on the template and about 1/8 in. deep into the rotor.
20. Repeat steps 17 - 19 for the remaining 4 guide holes.
21. Remove the template from the rotor.
22. Disassemble the rotor from the hub.
23. Place the rotor in the drill press and adjust height if needed. (I decided to go ahead and make through holes with the 1/16 in. drill bit. to better guide the next one but it is not necesarry)

24. Install the 1/2 in. drill bit in the drill press
25. Align one of the pilot holes with the 1/2 in. drill bit

26. Clamp down the rotor to prevent it from moving. If using metal clamps place a thin piece of wood or cardboard between the clamp and the rotor to prevent metal to metal contact and damage to the rotor.
27. Using the 1/2 in. drill bit, drill through the rotor hat.


28. Repeat steps 25 - 27 for the remaining 4 pilot holes.
29. Clean off any burrs with a wire brush or small file.
30. Test fit the new 5x114.3 hub on the rotor. *If fitment seems too tight, one or more holes may be slightly off their correct location. Give the hole(s) another pass with the 1/2 in. drill bit to slightly widen it or use a small file to remove some material from the areas where there is contact with the studs.*
31. Now to put everything back together start with the new 5x114.3 hub.
32. Apply a small amount of Loctite on the threads of the 14 mm hub bolts. (Around the middle portion 33. since the end protrude out of the hub.
34. Screw in the bolts by hand or using the ratchet depending on how smooth it is.
35. Tighten in a crisscross patterns and torque to 48 ft-lb (OEM spec).

36. Install the speed sensor
37. Screw in the speed sensor 10 mm bolt
38. Tighten and torque to 5.5 ft-lb (OEM Spec)
39. Install the rotor. Make sure it seats properly and evenly.

40. Compress caliper pistons if necessary to allow the rotor to slide back in. (I did not have to do this in my case.)
41. Install the caliper and bracket
42. Screw in the 19 mm bracket bolts by hand or using the ratchet depending on how smooth it is.
43. Tighten evenly and torque to 59 ft-lb (OEM Spec)


44. Install the brake line hanger and the 12mm bolt by hand or using the ratchet depending on how smooth it is.
45. Tighten and torque to 24 ft-lb (OEM Spec).

46. Turn the steering wheel to make the caliper point forwards.
47. Install the wheel.
48. Screw in the lug nuts by hand to prevent cross threading.
49. Tighten and torque to 89 ft-lb (OEM Spec) in a crisscross pattern. (No more adapters!!!)


50. Repeat steps 2 - 49 for the other side.
51. Lower the vehicle.
52. Depress the brake pedal several times (until stiff) before moving the vehicle.
53. Go for a test drive and enjoy!
Final Thoughts:
I have had these on the car for about three months and they have held up great even after going to the track.

[supahotfya_86]

What are you gonna do with the rear?

[mrha]

Originally Posted by supahotfya_86

What are you gonna do with the rear?

2008 STI rear hubs fit our cars.

[why?]

now if we could also do 4x100.

[UYCR]

Originally Posted by supahotfya_86

What are you gonna do with the rear?

In my case I am just gonna leave them stock because I still need at least 25mm spacers because of the wide body so I use adapters while I'm at it. Also I still have the OEM spare tire so in case of an emergency I still need to have the 5x100 pattern to mount it.

[UYCR]

Originally Posted by mrha

2008 STI rear hubs fit our cars.

Yup. If I happen to stubble upon an STI spare wheel and tire I could consider finishing the conversion but the rears are also a bit more of a PITA to swap so for now I'm good with the OEM ones.

[Alfs]

I dont think the torque spec on the Brembo mounting bolts is correct, 59 ft-lb is for the floating caliper mounting bolts spec.

Can you share where you find the torque spec of the Brembo on PP?