she's dead Jim. (Taking apart my engine to the crank) What would you do?

[PitViper]

Hello everyone!
The other day I blew my motor. From the sound of it, It's a spun bearing on cylinder 4 and most likely even a blown O-ring. We just got the car to the shop last night so We're not sure of the extent of the damage at this time but we at least know we will be taking it down to the crank.

With that being said, I wanted to get a thread going to see what YOU would or wouldn't do while we are performing open heart surgery.

So let me know what parts you'd use, why you suggest them, and even a link if you got it.

Current engine specs:

-Innovate supercharger (69mm pulley)
-Perrin big MAF intake
-Perrin Light weight crank and accessory pulleys
-HKS metal head gaskets (FI)
-ARP head studs
-Methanol injection at the throttle body (For cooling of the supercharger... and power)


What I've already got in mind to add:

---Will be adding to any build----
-Oil catch can (looking to the Velox system or a vent to atmosphere)
-Perrin Oil cooler
-Velox Radiator
-Dry Sump (totally doing it for the S&G's)
-Cometic (FI)
-Raceseng AC delete (I don't use it anyways and because race car)
-Flex fuel kit (Ptuning)
-stiffer motor mounts (revo transmission mounts)
-Deatschworks 700cc injectors
-Full Blown Fuel Return System
-ARP bolts
-Ferrea 6000 series valves
-Ferrea springs


--Headers--
-TOMEI EXPREME EQUAL LENGTH HEADER
or
-ACE TYPE B 4-2-1 150 MERGED HEADER

---Non pre-built bottom end (Don't know what brands yet)-----
-Forged connecting rods
-O-rings
-bearings
-OEM compression pistons

---Pre-built bottom end (The Frankenengine)-----
-I was talking with a friend of mine who thought of combining the FA20 DIT Short Block (2015-16 Subaru WRX block) with the NA FA20 head from the FRS/BRZ. This will give the reliability of a block built for boost plus all the fuel in the world as the NA FA20 heads have both port and direct injection.
Any thoughts? (We got conformation that this is a no-go. At least we tried.)

-what short block would you pick up while on the market? Brand?
-Full blown
-Element Tuning

----Other-------
-thoughts on a V8 swap? Any good engine and tranny combos I should look at?

-I found a 2JZ + a v161 tranny for cheap. Thoughts on that?

[gramicci101]

What goals do you have for power? Reliable at 350 will be different than reliable at 550.

How much will building it yourself cost compared to a wrx short block compared to a Full Blown short block?

Talk to @spitfire481; he's selling some high power engine build parts.

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by gramicci101

What goals do you have for power? Reliable at 350 will be different than reliable at 550.

How much will building it yourself cost compared to a wrx short block compared to a Full Blown short block?

Talk to @spitfire; he's selling some high power engine build parts.

At the end of the day, a reliable 400HP would keep me happy for now. It would be nice to have the flexibility to push that even higher as another friend of mine and I were talking about twin charging in the future.

As for a FA20 DIT price: $3,999.99+
Full blown: $3,000.00 - 6,000.00 (depending on the stage)

[RJasonKlein]

Although they're on the opposite coast, Element Tuning offers some very impressive and proven builds worth considering: http://elementtuning.com/competition...r-wrx-fa20dit/

[Lantana frs]

What constitutes reliable? 200hp/litre is a lot of heat. Weekend toy maybe but probably a grenade as a dd.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by PitViper

I wanted to get a thread going to see what YOU would or wouldn't do while we are performing open heart surgery.

I'd get a spare engine and go back to a stock tune while I rebuild the blown one myself.

Shit, I just realized @Decay107 has my cherry picker. I'm fucked.

[Ultramaroon]

Does this mean t-shirts are on hold?

[Decay107]

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

I'd get a spare engine and go back to a stock tune while I rebuild the blown one myself.

Shit, I just realized @Decay107 has my cherry picker. I'm fucked.

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Does this mean t-shirts are on hold?

T-shirts are on hold. Sorry guys

As for buying a backup engine, id just buy a backup BRZ, haha.

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[Spartarus]

Don't drop the compression if you are going to stay with a the innovate / sprintex. It's not necessary, and it will cost you more power than you think. Especially unnecessary since you're already set up for WMI, and considering flex.

Other than that, you plan looks solid.

[Kiske]

Don't drop compression unless you are upgrading to the 355 sprintex. The 210 isn't going to be pushing crazy high psi to warrent the loss you will get. Plus you want to go e85 and already run meth so you've got the knock covered.

Skip the Velox rails. If your going to upgrade your rails go with fullblown's return setup with a regulator... which doesn't sound needed for your goals. With the Velox rails, it's a nice product but the stock ones will work fine so save the money for now and spend it elsewhere.

I'd also look into Full Blown's and Element Tuning's blocks and engine packages. Both have a good record here. Element Tuning... also has some revised oiling work for reliability and that 9k redline :P Also both companies, if you call them offer a variety of piston packages should you choose not to lower compression or meet in the middle. Also anything to improve the oil pump.

I'd also clean and check the heads while apart. Simple port and polish will net tiny gains (but, your already there so meh) and a complete Ferrea 6000's valve, seal, retainer and spring upgrade.

I'd skip the mishimoto thermostat there have been quite a few failures. If your that concerned drill a tiny hole in the stock one but, coolant temps aren't really an issue with an upgraded radiator.

Also if you aren't intercooled, now is the time. Colder = better.

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by Kiske

Don't drop compression unless you are upgrading to the 355 sprintex. The 210 isn't going to be pushing crazy high psi to warrent the loss you will get. Plus you want to go e85 and already run meth so you've got the knock covered.

Skip the Velox rails. If your going to upgrade your rails go with fullblown's return setup with a regulator... which doesn't sound needed for your goals. With the Velox rails, it's a nice product but the stock ones will work fine so save the money for now and spend it elsewhere.

I'd also look into Full Blown's and Element Tuning's blocks and engine packages. Both have a good record here. Element Tuning... also has some revised oiling work for reliability and that 9k redline :P Also both companies, if you call them offer a variety of piston packages should you choose not to lower compression or meet in the middle. Also anything to improve the oil pump.

I'd also clean and check the heads while apart. Simple port and polish will net tiny gains (but, your already there so meh) and a complete Ferrea 6000's valve, seal, retainer and spring upgrade.

I'd skip the mishimoto thermostat there have been quite a few failures. If your that concerned drill a tiny hole in the stock one but, coolant temps aren't really an issue with an upgraded radiator.

Also if you aren't intercooled, now is the time. Colder = better.

PSI =/= CFM.

The 335 doesn't move sufficient CFM at a sufficiently low temperature to cope with low compression. Even with the 335, you don't want to go low.

A member here just finished building a 9:1 335 boosted motor and only makes 244hp / 214 tq on pump gas... 296/246 on E85.

You aren't going to make enough boost with a supercharger to warrant a return-style fuel system.

There's plenty of space for a dry sump with the A/C deleted, but no need. The chassis can sustain more than 1G sustained without oil starving. Making less than 400 HP with the right viscosity oil, you're not going to have to worry about insufficient pressure.

The advantage of the FA20DIT is its bigger oil pump, but you can't use it in an FRS, because you'll have to use the FRS cam chain cover to locate the camshaft position sensors correctly. The covers don't match. The pump is located in this cover. The bottom end halves will bolt right up. The oil pan, both upper and lower, have different part numbers. The WRX upper pan has a level sensor, and the lower pan is not shaped identically... Worth wondering if the pistons are shaped correctly to clear the FRS valves.

Your plan is fine.

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

PSI =/= CFM.

The 335 doesn't move sufficient CFM at a sufficiently low temperature to cope with low compression. Even with the 335, you don't want to go low.

A member here just finished building a 9:1 335 boosted motor and only makes 244hp / 214 tq on pump gas... 296/246 on E85.

You aren't going to make enough boost with a supercharger to warrant a return-style fuel system.

There's plenty of space for a dry sump with the A/C deleted, but no need. The chassis can sustain more than 1G sustained without oil starving. Making less than 400 HP with the right viscosity oil, you're not going to have to worry about insufficient pressure.

The advantage of the FA20DIT is its bigger oil pump, but you can't use it in an FRS, because you'll have to use the FRS cam chain cover to locate the camshaft position sensors correctly. The covers don't match. The pump is located in this cover. The bottom end halves will bolt right up. The oil pan, both upper and lower, have different part numbers. The WRX upper pan has a level sensor, and the lower pan is not shaped identically... Worth wondering if the pistons are shaped correctly to clear the FRS valves.

Your plan is fine.

@Spartarus @Kiske Thanks for all the detail! That really helps a lot. And I think I got the picture on not dropping compression lol. I'll edit the OG post.
Now all I need are brands and other do's and don'ts. Like, "don't use ARP main bolts, because "X" problems."

I found a 2jz and v161 tranny for cheap.
2jz swap, anyone?

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by PitViper

@Spartarus @Kiske Thanks for all the detail! That really helps a lot. And I think I got the picture on not dropping compression lol. I'll edit the OG post.
Now all I need are brands and other do's and don'ts. Like, "don't use ARP main bolts, because "X" problems."

I found a 2jz and v161 tranny for cheap.
2jz swap, anyone?

Sent from my LG-D950 using Tapatalk

Do it. How cheap is cheap?

Regarding recommendations...

Flex: Ptuning has the best and cleanest installation. Delicious has more comprehensive instructions.

Injectors: Deatschworks are the easiest for tuners to work with. They are flow balanced and have the appropriate and sufficiently comprehensive data to calibrate out of the box.

Exhaust: Don't use any of the "name brand" Japanese exhaust components. I've seen and worked with all of them. The flanges all warp with heat cycles. They're not stress-relieved and milled flat after welding. they will leak, you will have to repair them. ACE, JDL, Ptuning are the only exhaust manufacturers for this platform that I would spend money on. That, and they do great post-purchase support if there's any problems. ACE was doing the type B to fill orders, they're caught up enough that they're making all type A now. Good news.

Radiator: Velox does a better one. Everything they make is comprehensively researched, well-supported, and the build quality is unparalleled.

Head Gaskets: Cometic. Forget the HKS Gaskets. Especially with the crappy finish on the stock heads.

Fasteners: All the ARP stuff is fine. No reported issues.

A/C delete: Raceseng makes one.

Valvetrain: Upsizing the valves will help in a supercharged Application. Ferrea F2359P Exhaust, F2358P Intake.

Bearings: Stock or King. King are untested.

Motor Mounts: Stiffer is OK, solid is a bad idea on a 4-banger. Don't do it without also stiffening the transmission mount. ForcedFab makes a good billet insert, which they will mill to accomodate the Whiteline lower insert. That will be as stiff as you can make the mount.

Like me, you probably watch the shifter bounce around like a wet noodle with wheel hop, and you're irritated about it.. Stiffening the transmission mount will help. Also, the arm on which the shifter is mounted is secured with rubber bushings at the front. Revo makes brass ones to replace them. It's better than stiffening the rear bushing, as the fronts keep the shifter aligned with the transmission, not the chassis. Ideally, you wouldn't need a rear bushing. https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/44420

Taming the wheel hop itself is a suspension-related conversation. RacerX does a great job with that.