Eng coolant temp sensor location

[arghx7]

+1 for air pocket

[steve99]

Originally Posted by D K

Tried all that.....

Will try again.


Temps got to 224 after 5-6 hard laps.

If you have bled system of air

Any chance of a restriction/partial blockage ?

Kinked pipe , thermostat not opening correctly, do you have one of those heat exchanger oil coolers ? that go into a radiator hose restricting flow or causing waterpump to cavitate.

do you have underdrive pulleys

check drive belt tension

[wparsons]

I would bet it's either an air pocket or something wrong with the thermostat, and nothing to do with the sensor getting heat soaked.

[Poodles]

Full list of mods done?

[brn12345]

So here are a few things that come to mind:
1. The FA20 uses Subaru Super Coolant (Blue). Any coolant you use should have similar cooling properties.
2. The bleeding procedure needs to be followed otherwise your sure to have cooling issues. Procedure is as follows:
- TURN A/C switch to off
- Fill through filler neck till full
- Pump radiator hose several times and add coolant if it drops
- Open the bleed valve located on the heater hoses near the firewall
- Add coolant as required
- When coolant comes out of bleeder close it and top up filler neck
- Fill reservoir tank to the full mark
- Tighten radiator cap
- Start engine and rev it a few times (don't let it warm up too much as you need to do the next step before thermostat opens!)
- Remove radiator cap, and open the bleed valve and fill with coolant and keep doing the procedure above until coolant does not drop
- Ok now turn on the heater to max hot and fan low and run the engine until the radiator fan starts and stops
- You want to wait now for the coolant to drop safely so that you can remove the radiator cap and check coolant level. Add coolant if needed.
- If you hear gurgling sound from the heater side it means you did something wrong and you have to redo the whole process.

Yes it might seem like a lot of work, but it really is imperative to get all air out of the system.

[suaveflooder]

Pretty sure @stugray nailed it. Get the nose up a little and get that air bubble out

[D K]

Originally Posted by steve99

If you have bled system of air

Any chance of a restriction/partial blockage ?

Kinked pipe , thermostat not opening correctly, do you have one of those heat exchanger oil coolers ? that go into a radiator hose restricting flow or causing waterpump to cavitate.

do you have underdrive pulleys

check drive belt tension

Nope
Nope
Nope
Nope

All the obvious have been checked or I wouldnt have posted here....

Its fine on the street or light load on track.
When you hammer it, second lap, ck eng light/p0117

D

[D K]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I would bet it's either an air pocket or something wrong with the thermostat, and nothing to do with the sensor getting heat soaked.

If it was the tstat, it would happen irregardless of load

[steve99]

Originally Posted by D K

Nope
Nope
Nope
Nope

All the obvious have been checked or I wouldnt have posted here....

Its fine on the street or light load on track.
When you hammer it, second lap, ck eng light/p0117

D

I admitt we are all guessing here mate but we also dont know what mods you have and what the history is.

Assume your boosted and reciently installed new radiator , as you say its fine on street and light track work but carnt cope with heavy work on track.

Would indicate sensor is ok and maybe it just carnt cope with a hard workout, what are ambient temps ? what boost are you running 15 psi plus ?

have you made any mods to front of car or airflow through radiator
have you removed or modified undertray ? vented bonnett or other engine bay venting ?

[D K]

Originally Posted by steve99

I admitt we are all guessing here mate but we also dont know what mods you have and what the history is.

Assume your boosted and reciently installed new radiator , as you say its fine on street and light track work but carnt cope with heavy work on track.

Would indicate sensor is ok and maybe it just carnt cope with a hard workout, what are ambient temps ? what boost are you running 15 psi plus ?

have you made any mods to front of car or airflow through radiator
have you removed or modified undertray ? vented bonnett or other engine bay venting ?

Yes supercharged. Very light boost, under 9.
No airflow mods (except the ic - which may be blocking)
Stock hood - no vents.
No mods to undertray
Oil cooler for both engine and sc.
Ambient 100 farenheit

Im gonna install a manual water temp gauge to get a better idea


Cheers

[wparsons]

Are you currently logging the coolant temp? Does the log behave exactly like the gauge, or is it responding normally?

[D K]

I don't have a logger at mo, but I used the AIM Solo DL for a couple of sessions, and it stayed in the 195 deg range. Gauge was normal.


I'm waiting for an ecutek cable, so I can log more.

[stugray]

Originally Posted by D K

I'm waiting for an ecutek cable, so I can log more.

you can log with a $10 ELM 327 from ebay & the Torque app.
Or for $140 you can log with a tactrix dongle/cable.
Neither of those require a Laptop to be connected to log.

Unless you have ecutek already and they dont allow third party OBDII logging. (I would have a hard time believing that)

[D K]

Yea, I actually have that already.
I forgot, I've been very busy.




I will confirm, but I will bet my last dollar that one the street it won't go anywhere near the upper limit.


D

Originally Posted by stugray

you can log with a $10 ELM 327 from ebay & the Torque app.
Or for $140 you can log with a tactrix dongle/cable.
Neither of those require a Laptop to be connected to log.

Unless you have ecutek already and they dont allow third party OBDII logging. (I would have a hard time believing that)