Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[stevo585]

Anyone have Rob's email? My voltmeter failed awhile back and its now annoying me.

I also think my controller is overheating. Seems to not response well on hot days.

Thanks!

[PantsDants]

@Sojhinn @l0aded

I'm on the PowerSonic batteries still, going to upgrade to three PC680s soon. What all do I need to get in terms of install parts so that I have everything when the batteries arrive? Sounds like I need a longer copper dump connector (can't you just use some heavy gauge wire for that?). Does the old plastic top cover not sufficiently protect the connections on the new batteries?

Thanks guys.

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Anyone have Rob's email? My voltmeter failed awhile back and its now annoying me.

I also think my controller is overheating. Seems to not response well on hot days.

Thanks!

PMed.

Did you pull out the stereo jack and it failed or did it randomly just shut off? Are you sure it is the voltmeter and not the fuse connection or the stereo wire?

[l0aded]

Originally Posted by PantsDants

@Sojhinn @l0aded

I'm on the PowerSonic batteries still, going to upgrade to three PC680s soon. What all do I need to get in terms of install parts so that I have everything when the batteries arrive? Sounds like I need a longer copper dump connector (can't you just use some heavy gauge wire for that?). Does the old plastic top cover not sufficiently protect the connections on the new batteries?

Thanks guys.

Not sure what your cables/barriers look like since I started on the ETX16s but here is a pic of mine with the provided barrier sitting ontop. Since I don't have 3x PC680s yet, I couldn't use the barrier as my ETX16 starter battery terminals are facing right which made it not sit with the holder/terminal wood block ontop.

I think with 3x PC680s it would sit fine though.

For connecting the two batteries together I am sure thick gauge wire would be fine if you could secure it. Personally I think using a copper bar would be cleaner and simpler. You can purchase a bar from McMaster-carr with approximate dimensions of 6" long x 0.5" wide x 1/8" thick ($2.45 + ship), cut off the excess length you don't need, and drill two holes for the bolts to go through and you're good to go.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964K4

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

Not sure what your cables/barriers look like since I started on the ETX16s but here is a pic of mine with the provided barrier sitting ontop. Since I don't have 3x PC680s yet, I couldn't use the barrier as my ETX16 starter battery terminals are facing right which made it not sit with the holder/terminal wood block ontop.



I think with 3x PC680s it would sit fine though.



For connecting the two batteries together I am sure thick gauge wire would be fine if you could secure it. Personally I think using a copper bar would be cleaner and simpler. You can purchase a bar from McMaster-carr with approximate dimensions of 6" long x 0.5" wide x 1/8" thick ($2.45 + ship), cut off the excess length you don't need, and drill two holes for the bolts to go through and you're good to go.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8964K4

What he said.


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[l0aded]

BTW what motor oil are you guys running? I've been on Eneos Sustina 0w-20 for the last 2 rounds but it is kinda pricey. Also I never track but do push my car hard on the streets.

Thinking about going back to TGMO which is half the price but not sure how running a supercharger means for the quality of oil I need.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

BTW what motor oil are you guys running? I've been on Eneos Sustina 0w-20 for the last 2 rounds but it is kinda pricey. Also I never track but do push my car hard on the streets.

Thinking about going back to TGMO which is half the price but not sure how running a supercharger means for the quality of oil I need.

I'm running mobil 1 synthetic. I just change it sooner.


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[zc06_kisstherain]

Mobile 1 here too
I usually change it between 5K - 7K

[Target70]

Mobile 1 for me also. I change every 6 months (~2,000 mi)

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by l0aded

PMed.

Did you pull out the stereo jack and it failed or did it randomly just shut off? Are you sure it is the voltmeter and not the fuse connection or the stereo wire?

Mines a V1 kit...used. There is no stereo jack. But yes the voltmeter just randomly died. I heard it was common. I use the 12v charger port in the glove box as a switch. Once I get the torque app up and I'm able to log boost ill know more. As it seems to feel almost NA at times when its 90 F out. Maybe just the heat soak but I am on e85.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Mines a V1 kit...used. There is no stereo jack. But yes the voltmeter just randomly died. I heard it was common. I use the 12v charger port in the glove box as a switch. Once I get the torque app up and I'm able to log boost ill know more. As it seems to feel almost NA at times when its 90 F out. Maybe just the heat soak but I am on e85.

Yeah it was fairly common for the v1s for the volt meter to pop.


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[super josh]

I replaced my voltmeter for an amber coloured one (to match the dash colour in my mx5) and just measured the dimensions and bought a generic 30V one off the bay.


Josh

[stevo585]

Originally Posted by super josh

I replaced my voltmeter for an amber coloured one (to match the dash colour in my mx5) and just measured the dimensions and bought a generic 30V one off the bay.


Josh

Does it have a switch in it? Those seem hard to find. I've seen lots of basic 30V ones.

Do you have a site link?

Thanks

[super josh]

Originally Posted by stevo585

Does it have a switch in it? Those seem hard to find. I've seen lots of basic 30V ones.

Do you have a site link?

Thanks

Not sure what you mean by a switch as that is connected to the case of my dash mounted voltmeter. All I replaced was the voltmeter pcd itself which needs to be soldered in to the circuit.

Something like this one Clicky

A lot on ebay are 3 wire, so make sure you get a 2 wire one.


Josh