(PSA) If you're considering a BRZ I personally don't recommend it

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ermax

If it will go into gear with the car off it will go in (without a grind) if synchronized manually. The syncros don’t do anything if you already matched the input shaft to the output shaft. If something was so damaged like you say then you wouldn’t be able to shift it into 5th at all.

It isn’t that it won’t do it at all. It won’t do it quickly without grinding the gears. You are welcome to come drive the car or have someone drive the car if they think they could do better. The fact is something is damaged to the point that nothing will overcome the situation, except for possibly pin point rev matching and stupid luck that everything is aligned, or something. I’m sure the damage is something like this, but obviously not as bad as his car (Civic SI):

[MuseChaser]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Need to read further. It just keeps getting better and better.

Ok...just read the whole thread. Hope you're happy.... I'm not.



O.P., I'd be happy to take your car off your hands and provide you with a notarized affidavit stating that I will not kill you regardless of any future or current transmission behavior of any kind. All bets are off, how3ver, if you write any more off the charts melodramatic posts..


And..OBVIOUSLY.... That last part was a joke but these days who knows how folks take things. I would never harm anyone except if absolutely necessary in a self defense situation. I am serious about the car and affidavit.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by MuseChaser

Ok...just read the whole thread. Hope you're happy.... I'm not.



O.P., I'd be happy to take your car off your hands and provide you with a notarized affidavit stating that I will not kill you regardless of any future or current transmission behavior of any kind. All bets are off, how3ver, if you write any more off the charts melodramatic posts..


And..OBVIOUSLY.... That last part was a joke but these days who knows how folks take things. I would never harm anyone except if absolutely necessary in a self defense situation. I am serious about the car and affidavit.

[Rampage]

Originally Posted by runfrodorun

You joke, and yet I’ve actually considered giving it away, not even kidding. I’m so disgusted with Subaru that looking at the emblem feels like it’s shortening my life. I would not take a brz from somebody if they paid me to.

What made you think I was joking?


Edit: I wasn't. I will even bring you a couple thousand dollars for it if it was not driven in Chicago winters. I could replace the tranny myself if needed. I always wanted a twin but I just couldn't give up my 2ZZ Spyder for one.

[humfrz]

ENOUGH!


@runfrodorun - just drive it to the South Side, park it, leave the keys in it and it will go away.


humfrz

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by humfrz

ENOUGH!


@runfrodorun - just drive it to the South Side, park it, leave the keys in it and it will go away.


humfrz

[Zyo81]

I've had a similar experience. I complained of grinding at 300 miles at the dealership I bought the car from. A tech drove with me, ground it himself, ground 2nd, then said it was normal for a "racing transmission."

I've had multiple problems from taillights to windows (the crickets don't bother me, never fought them on that one), but one of the dealerships claimed there were no TSB's, so I printed them out and took them to the dealer myself. Yes I've been to multiple dealerships.

I've never raced the car, it's just my daily. I've driven almost exclusively manuals for 20 years, owned a LOT of cars.

Finally after raising hell right before the end of my warranty (due to time, not mileage) they put in a new transmission. It was corporate that pushed for it, I'm just unfortunately surrounded by crap dealerships.

The new transmission was great the first year, it's been about ten months, it's starting to have issues with 2nd. Like some others have suggested I've been looking at just replacing it and moving on, too many negative memories. Though I am considering an automatic version of the car. I haven't decided yet.

[Tristor]

Originally Posted by Zyo81

I've had a similar experience. I complained of grinding at 300 miles at the dealership I bought the car from. A tech drove with me, ground it himself, ground 2nd, then said it was normal for a "racing transmission."

I've had multiple problems from taillights to windows (the crickets don't bother me, never fought them on that one), but one of the dealerships claimed there were no TSB's, so I printed them out and took them to the dealer myself. Yes I've been to multiple dealerships.

I've never raced the car, it's just my daily. I've driven almost exclusively manuals for 20 years, owned a LOT of cars.

Finally after raising hell right before the end of my warranty (due to time, not mileage) they put in a new transmission. It was corporate that pushed for it, I'm just unfortunately surrounded by crap dealerships.

The new transmission was great the first year, it's been about ten months, it's starting to have issues with 2nd. Like some others have suggested I've been looking at just replacing it and moving on, too many negative memories. Though I am considering an automatic version of the car. I haven't decided yet.

Not to revive this thread further, but the automatic transmission in these cars is significantly better built and more reliable than the manuals, partly because it was tried and true before it was ever used in this platform. It's not a popular opinion, because as this is a driver's car and manuals are more engaging, most people feel that this car requires a manual to fully enjoy. But the truth of the matter is that the manual in this car has a few major design issues (especially with the TOB design), and it doesn't really hold much more power than the car came with from the factory. The manual gearbox in the car (TL70) was designed for this car and is not really used anywhere else. The automatic (TX6A/A960E) is adapted from more powerful cars that Toyota released under the Lexus marque.


Between the two drivetrains, the only major performance difference is that the automatic has slightly longer gearing and a longer final drive ratio, which results in it having slower acceleration and lower wheel torque compared to the manual. This can be rectified easily by using a shorter final drive diff in the aftermarket (such as an aftermarket 4.44 or 4.56, vs the factory 4.10 vs the factory 4.30 in the manual). So, swap the FD ratio, and the automatic is then effectively superior to the manual from a performance, reliability, and power-holding capability.


If the only thing that you had problems with this platform on was a bad manual gearbox, you should try the automatic and see if using paddle shift/sequential lever is engaging enough for you. It's sad that they did so poorly on the manual gearbox design, but them's the breaks.

[Summerwolf]

Originally Posted by Tristor

Not to revive this thread further, but the automatic transmission in these cars is significantly better built and more reliable than the manuals, partly because it was tried and true before it was ever used in this platform. It's not a popular opinion, because as this is a driver's car and manuals are more engaging, most people feel that this car requires a manual to fully enjoy. But the truth of the matter is that the manual in this car has a few major design issues (especially with the TOB design), and it doesn't really hold much more power than the car came with from the factory. The manual gearbox in the car (TL70) was designed for this car and is not really used anywhere else. The automatic (TX6A/A960E) is adapted from more powerful cars that Toyota released under the Lexus marque.


Between the two drivetrains, the only major performance difference is that the automatic has slightly longer gearing and a longer final drive ratio, which results in it having slower acceleration and lower wheel torque compared to the manual. This can be rectified easily by using a shorter final drive diff in the aftermarket (such as an aftermarket 4.44 or 4.56, vs the factory 4.10 vs the factory 4.30 in the manual). So, swap the FD ratio, and the automatic is then effectively superior to the manual from a performance, reliability, and power-holding capability.


If the only thing that you had problems with this platform on was a bad manual gearbox, you should try the automatic and see if using paddle shift/sequential lever is engaging enough for you. It's sad that they did so poorly on the manual gearbox design, but them's the breaks.

But..... then you'd be forced to live with an automatic.....


IDK, my manual has no issues. I truly feel like most issues are because of the operator.

[ermax]

I wouldn’t write off the whole tranny because the TOB (considered a consumable) goes bad. My went bad at 85k. It will be interesting to see if the new TOB design lasts longer. Not sure I’ve seen any reports of the new one going bad.

Cold shifting is fairly common on MTs. I think a lot of the other issues are due to abuse. In that case an AT makes abuse impossible.

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by Tristor

Not to revive this thread further, but the automatic transmission in these cars is significantly better built and more reliable than the manuals, partly because it was tried and true before it was ever used in this platform. It's not a popular opinion, because as this is a driver's car and manuals are more engaging, most people feel that this car requires a manual to fully enjoy. But the truth of the matter is that the manual in this car has a few major design issues (especially with the TOB design), and it doesn't really hold much more power than the car came with from the factory. The manual gearbox in the car (TL70) was designed for this car and is not really used anywhere else. The automatic (TX6A/A960E) is adapted from more powerful cars that Toyota released under the Lexus marque.


Between the two drivetrains, the only major performance difference is that the automatic has slightly longer gearing and a longer final drive ratio, which results in it having slower acceleration and lower wheel torque compared to the manual. This can be rectified easily by using a shorter final drive diff in the aftermarket (such as an aftermarket 4.44 or 4.56, vs the factory 4.10 vs the factory 4.30 in the manual). So, swap the FD ratio, and the automatic is then effectively superior to the manual from a performance, reliability, and power-holding capability.


If the only thing that you had problems with this platform on was a bad manual gearbox, you should try the automatic and see if using paddle shift/sequential lever is engaging enough for you. It's sad that they did so poorly on the manual gearbox design, but them's the breaks.

I have to agree with you. I have two other cars that I drive and both are MT.


I've taken a MT twin out 3 times now and as recent as about a month ago. I prefer the paddles in THIS car. I never thought I'd say that as I wrestled back and forth about trading my Auto in. After the last test drive I'm now keeping my AT twin.

[falcon_wizard]

For what it’s worth, I’ll share my experience...When I first bough mine, I had grinding ossues I though my tranny was broke. Dealership changes the fluid to a better grade, which helped but did not fully solve it. I later found out that if you shift at 4000rpm or more, there’s no grinding at all, whereas the grinding-notching happens when you shift at low rpms & when cold. Once the car is warmed up, it’s super smooth. 6years later, I’m a super happy owner still, and would buy it again tomorrow ... so cleary, the tranny was optimized for certain driving (high rev) conditions, and it’s a matter of knowing how to drive the car.