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Old 09-14-2016, 01:28 PM   #10151
Sojhinn
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Good to know! Amazon Prime has them all available, I want the ones without the SAE Brass Terminals for the dump pack right?


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Old 09-14-2016, 01:38 PM   #10152
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Thanks man! Ordered those and a new battery tender / charger, when they arrive this weekend I'll test the old ones, build a new dump pack with them, drop it in, and report how it goes.


Now to see what new tunes are out for the Procede / OFT...

*EDIT* So I got the new batteries and took a look at the old ones:



Guess that's the problem.

Put the set of 3 PC680s in and now it runs just great! Like a new Supercharger. Gonna play around with tunes some more but I'm still really happy with the setup and I'm glad it was just the battery causing me trouble.
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:07 PM   #10153
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Thanks man! Ordered those and a new battery tender / charger, when they arrive this weekend I'll test the old ones, build a new dump pack with them, drop it in, and report how it goes.


Now to see what new tunes are out for the Procede / OFT...

*EDIT* So I got the new batteries and took a look at the old ones:



Guess that's the problem.

Put the set of 3 PC680s in and now it runs just great! Like a new Supercharger. Gonna play around with tunes some more but I'm still really happy with the setup and I'm glad it was just the battery causing me trouble.


Lucid you got rid of the .5s and capped the wires right?


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Old 09-23-2016, 12:02 PM   #10154
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Lucid you got rid of the .5s and capped the wires right?


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By the .5s I assume you mean the smaller pack of 2 batteries that had the Phantom brick connectors and all that?

Yeah, I removed those batteries and insulated the wires from the harness so that they didn't hit anything or cause a short / ground.

So, two steps forward, one step back at the moment. The overall setup was working well for a few days, reading 28.X on the volt meter, boost and all.

Yesterday morning when I was driving to work, the charger started up abnormally and the voltmeter read 16-17.X, then went back to 20.X and wouldn't charge past that.

After work the voltmeter read 29.X and would not show drain on the batteries, even when I could activate the charger, hear it was running, and feel it as well.

It seems different than when one of the batteries was dead, because it seems to be working but the voltmeter isn't indicating it.

Something tells me wiring came a bit loose and might have messed with it. When I got home I tightened everything up and tested the batteries, but only the 25V series connection so maybe one of them is bad which would suck since I just bought them. Wonder if something shorted the batteries causing the sudden charger run and then the voltmeter issues. Check your connections, kids!

Any way to troubleshoot the voltmeter / get a replacement? Or has anyone seen this issue before? Or did I just kill a week old battery? Lol.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:04 PM   #10155
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By the .5s I assume you mean the smaller pack of 2 batteries that had the Phantom brick connectors and all that?

Yeah, I removed those batteries and insulated the wires from the harness so that they didn't hit anything or cause a short / ground.

So, two steps forward, one step back at the moment. The overall setup was working well for a few days, reading 28.X on the volt meter, boost and all.

Yesterday morning when I was driving to work, the charger started up abnormally and the voltmeter read 16-17.X, then went back to 20.X and wouldn't charge past that.

After work the voltmeter read 29.X and would not show drain on the batteries, even when I could activate the charger, hear it was running, and feel it as well.

It seems different than when one of the batteries was dead, because it seems to be working but the voltmeter isn't indicating it.

Something tells me wiring came a bit loose and might have messed with it. When I got home I tightened everything up and tested the batteries, they all seem to hold their charges and read 12v and then 25v when put in series.

Any way to troubleshoot the voltmeter / get a replacement? Or has anyone seen this issue before?


Triple check your connections and make sure your connections to the controller are good.

Typically when the voltmeter goes out... It's blank. Sounds like an intermittent connection on the controller side.


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Old 09-23-2016, 12:43 PM   #10156
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Triple check your connections and make sure your connections to the controller are good.

Typically when the voltmeter goes out... It's blank. Sounds like an intermittent connection on the controller side.


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Will do. Checked both dump batteries and they're reading 12.4 and 12.2, would expect much worse if they were burnt out.
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:43 PM   #10157
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Will do. Checked both dump batteries and they're reading 12.4 and 12.2, would expect much worse if they were burnt out.


Me too.


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Old 09-23-2016, 02:28 PM   #10158
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Me too.


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Okay, I checked all the wiring going to the voltmeter and it looks good - I should note I'm using the Procede for boost control. Everything on that looked good too.

Still reading 29.0 volts, and there wasn't any dip in readings on the Voltmeter when I did the first "arming" test where you turn on power but not the engine and you hear the brushless motor spin up for 10-15 seconds.

If it's the controller itself that got damaged, any way to see about getting a new one? Or should I not worry since it seems to control fine still?

It's like the controls part still works, just not the instrumentation.
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:50 PM   #10159
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Okay, I checked all the wiring going to the voltmeter and it looks good - I should note I'm using the Procede for boost control. Everything on that looked good too.

Still reading 29.0 volts, and there wasn't any dip in readings on the Voltmeter when I did the first "arming" test where you turn on power but not the engine and you hear the brushless motor spin up for 10-15 seconds.

If it's the controller itself that got damaged, any way to see about getting a new one? Or should I not worry since it seems to control fine still?

It's like the controls part still works, just not the instrumentation.


Pay attention to it. I worry about that.


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Old 09-24-2016, 02:32 PM   #10160
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Pay attention to it. I worry about that.


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Yeah same here. In theory it's fine because the Procede is now handling the boost control portion of the controller, via the ECU readings and all that. So the phantom controller box is mostly for sending power to the motor and keeping the batteries topped up, which it's still doing.
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Old 09-26-2016, 12:52 PM   #10161
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Yeah same here. In theory it's fine because the Procede is now handling the boost control portion of the controller, via the ECU readings and all that. So the phantom controller box is mostly for sending power to the motor and keeping the batteries topped up, which it's still doing.
Sounds like you might be getting a bad signal from the procede....easy way to check is to just disconnect the procede control and connect up your throttle switch for a quick test with the car ON but not running.

Make sure to ground the throttle switch to the chassis when activating or it might not work. Simply pressing it against the frame while clicking the switch should be enough.
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Old 09-29-2016, 09:25 AM   #10162
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Any update on the upgrade?
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:11 AM   #10163
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Im waiting for the go ahead from Rob, hopefully soon. I believe there was a new video made that needed corrections.

Thanks,
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Old 09-29-2016, 11:37 AM   #10164
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Im waiting for the go ahead from Rob, hopefully soon. I believe there was a new video made that needed corrections.

Thanks,
Do you have the current waiting list?
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